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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 09-23-2017, 01:00 AM
  #2011  
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Originally Posted by stanleyw808
Hello geforce and 30Tooth,

The TKI3 Knuckles has a longer Arm compared to TKI4 Knuckles. As far as I understand TKI3 Knuckles will give You Less Overall Steering but makes the steering smoother or calmer.. I would say it will beneficial if the car feels twitchy in a very high traction track.

Cheers..
Hi Stanly.

The TKI 3 knuckles has the same width of the car as tki4. The difference is in ackerman. The feeling on the car is that you INCREASE steering with tki3 knuckles.

If i remeber right, the inner wheel will turn more with tki3 knuckles and that is why you have more steering. My advice is to use this with the TKI3 B-plate as that give less front end grip (more antidive).

TKI3 arms are shorter so you need to run the pills in the out posision in a and b plate as morinho says. This also change your rollsenter slightly. I have not tried the TKI3 arms for a while so i do not rember what difference in feel in TKI3 to TKI4 front arms
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Old 09-23-2017, 07:46 AM
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Hello am,

I actually meant that both knuckles will give the same Track Width as well. The difference between the two is the the "arm". You would see the difference if You could compare them side by side.

Cheers..

Originally Posted by am
Hi Stanly.

The TKI 3 knuckles has the same width of the car as tki4. The difference is in ackerman. The feeling on the car is that you INCREASE steering with tki3 knuckles.

If i remeber right, the inner wheel will turn more with tki3 knuckles and that is why you have more steering. My advice is to use this with the TKI3 B-plate as that give less front end grip (more antidive).

TKI3 arms are shorter so you need to run the pills in the out posision in a and b plate as morinho says. This also change your rollsenter slightly. I have not tried the TKI3 arms for a while so i do not rember what difference in feel in TKI3 to TKI4 front arms
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:41 AM
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Has anyone tried the Protek Rc Titanium screw kit for the top section? How does it compare to the Kyosho brand screw kit?
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Old 09-24-2017, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRcworld101
Has anyone tried the Protek Rc Titanium screw kit for the top section? How does it compare to the Kyosho brand screw kit?
i use the protek screws throughout the car and really like them, never had one strip when using quality tools.

i have also used the kyosho ti screws and have nothing bad to say about them, but i prefer protek due to the much lower price.

the key is to always use good tools with sharp tips, i prefer MIP
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Old 09-24-2017, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mourinho
i use the protek screws throughout the car and really like them, never had one strip when using quality tools.

i have also used the kyosho ti screws and have nothing bad to say about them, but i prefer protek due to the much lower price.

the key is to always use good tools with sharp tips, i prefer MIP
I appreciate the feedback boss. I'll be picking up the top screw set soon then. I have always used MIP since I started racing..I just remember a few guys said that Kyosho titanium was a little soft..But It's ok, I'll get the protek stuff...Thanks again!
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:02 AM
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Alright guys, just bought a TKI4 roller on eBay and got it all built and my engine broke in, and had my first race this past weekend. Car was awesome and handled like a dream. But I was having an issue with the left front dogbone. Was out practicing in the morning, and the front end got bound up and stuck with the shock at full compression. Looked through and saw that theres a groove but into the arm under the left front dog bone (appears to have popped out, but then back in). When holding both arms at full compression, the right front dog bone is flush inside the outdrive, but the front left is coming well out of the outdrive. Looked through and measured everything, it is all symmetrical from the left to right side of the car. Plastic hubs, with aluminum knuckles. Any ideas?
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Old 09-25-2017, 11:34 AM
  #2017  
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Have you checked your driveshafts? Maybe you have one 91mm and one 93mm driveshaft on the front end? TKI4 should be all 93mm front and rear but maybe there is a fault in the kit?
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:34 PM
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as mentioned by am, check your driveshafts are equal and also check upper and lower pills are identical, you might have RHS set narrow and LHS set wide
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:15 PM
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I made sure to look through before posting this, both front shafts are engraved '93H', all inserts are matching, had the whole front end apart trying to figure it out
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:28 PM
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post a pic front on with no wheels
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:51 PM
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is the inner bearing in the hub still good?
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:49 PM
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Just wanted add to this in case it's something weird, every one has been really helpful in solving my recent dit da dee droop issue... Thanks Mourinho lol!

Are those blue steering knuckle inner/ outer bearing bushings installed the correct way and/or are there excessive shims behind the hex? Maybe also physically check the uni's for the proper length.

Last edited by JLRC; 09-26-2017 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 09-28-2017, 07:53 AM
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I know you guys have been missing me but I'm here again to make the setup even better. It came to my knowledge the most common complaint is that the MP9 slaps the chassis too much compared to other cars, that it needed plushness and still to drive amazingly well. Does anyone here feel the same?

I'm taking care of that, will need some time to make sure we are headed the right direction still.
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Old 09-28-2017, 08:45 AM
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IFW473 new MP9 Brake Pads, part number finally announced by Kanai today on FB.
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Old 09-28-2017, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
IFW473 new MP9 Brake Pads, part number finally announced by Kanai today on FB.
Very Cool! Looks like there is more clearance for the center drive cups too. Inferno HPS+ compound..lol
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