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Old 10-16-2014 | 04:23 PM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
Can you make close-up pics of your fuel filter linkage? What brand of filter do you use? Where did you put mounting bracket?
The filter is a Kyosho unit, it comes with the bracket. It's is screwed and CA glued to the front chassis brace.

It's there to help regulate fuel pressure and also to get rid of the huge length of line wrapping around the buggy tank. It's NOT there for capacity.

As far as tech goes there is a lot more than just fuel capacity to worry about. Better know your weight and bring BOLT on weights. Better know your width and bring the appropriate 0 and 1mm hubs. And for the fuel you better have some idea of your capacity hot/cold and a way to manipulate it. (Hint : that's what the screw mounting hole inside the tank is for.)

Not really sure why this turned so negative

Last edited by JsK; 10-17-2014 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 10-17-2014 | 03:41 AM
  #602  
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extra filter or fuel line isn't going to make the difference in winning and losing. sorry. I don't run an extra filter simply due to the fact that its another mechanical connection that could fail. but there is nothing wrong with doing it.
I also don't really see where races are won and lost on fuel mileage. In every race I have been too its very seldom the leader never crashes and one crash is a pit stop. I watch Tessman pit 730 almost everywhere he goes. I personally pit at 730 everywhere I race as well. I use Paul Kings advice in that you should pit 2 minutes less than your total runtime. an extra 5cc of fuel in a filter isn't going to take you 2 minutes to the next pit window.
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Old 10-17-2014 | 08:47 AM
  #603  
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Originally Posted by Mo Denton
extra filter or fuel line isn't going to make the difference in winning and losing. sorry. I don't run an extra filter simply due to the fact that its another mechanical connection that could fail. but there is nothing wrong with doing it.
I also don't really see where races are won and lost on fuel mileage. In every race I have been too its very seldom the leader never crashes and one crash is a pit stop. I watch Tessman pit 730 almost everywhere he goes. I personally pit at 730 everywhere I race as well. I use Paul Kings advice in that you should pit 2 minutes less than your total runtime. an extra 5cc of fuel in a filter isn't going to take you 2 minutes to the next pit window.
Definitely agree with this for any race over 30 minutes, at least one crash requiring a marshal is likely to happen and the risk-reward for running extra parts and/or pushing your mileage may not be worth it. But for races that are 10, 12, and maybe 20 minutes fuel mileage can come into play in a big way, and I've seen it happen at several club races.

If RC pit stops were to take more than let's say, 10 seconds, then I'd say a good pit strategy and fuel mileage would become very important.
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Old 10-17-2014 | 09:44 AM
  #604  
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Originally Posted by Mo Denton
extra filter or fuel line isn't going to make the difference in winning and losing. sorry. I don't run an extra filter simply due to the fact that its another mechanical connection that could fail. but there is nothing wrong with doing it.
I also don't really see where races are won and lost on fuel mileage. In every race I have been too its very seldom the leader never crashes and one crash is a pit stop. I watch Tessman pit 730 almost everywhere he goes. I personally pit at 730 everywhere I race as well. I use Paul Kings advice in that you should pit 2 minutes less than your total runtime. an extra 5cc of fuel in a filter isn't going to take you 2 minutes to the next pit window.
While I do agree with you to certain extent, everyone crashes at some point so if the entire pack crashes 3 times and 1 guy has 1 less fuel stop that gives him an advantage. Fuel stops do not hinder the talent though and a faster racer will win regardless. We race 20 minute mains here at Fear Farm and although the guys who have 10 minute engines do have an advantage it rarely compensates for the other racers who are just clicking off faster laps.
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Old 10-17-2014 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mo Denton
extra filter or fuel line isn't going to make the difference in winning and losing. sorry. I don't run an extra filter simply due to the fact that its another mechanical connection that could fail. but there is nothing wrong with doing it.
I also don't really see where races are won and lost on fuel mileage. In every race I have been too its very seldom the leader never crashes and one crash is a pit stop. I watch Tessman pit 730 almost everywhere he goes. I personally pit at 730 everywhere I race as well. I use Paul Kings advice in that you should pit 2 minutes less than your total runtime. an extra 5cc of fuel in a filter isn't going to take you 2 minutes to the next pit window.
As I said,It's not there for capacity. Tekno tanks and fuel systems are plenty large without it. It's there to regulate the pressure and to smooth out air bubbles. I would say though the huge length of line coming off the tank is way more prone to failure than a Kyosho filter.
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Old 10-21-2014 | 12:08 PM
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So far so good with the serpent diff. Spur gear is wider than the Tekno.Looks like it shod last. I kept the 50tooth spur that came with the diff,really nice for our track..
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Old 10-21-2014 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dbrown
So far so good with the serpent diff. Spur gear is wider than the Tekno.Looks like it shod last. I kept the 50tooth spur that came with the diff,really nice for our track..
Can you post a pic of the center diff? Did you say you used Tekno outdrives but everything else is the Serpent diff?
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Old 10-21-2014 | 12:38 PM
  #608  
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Originally Posted by dbrown
So far so good with the serpent diff. Spur gear is wider than the Tekno.Looks like it shod last. I kept the 50tooth spur that came with the diff,really nice for our track..
That's good to hear. I've had 3 race meets with my serpent diff and I have no concerns what so ever of a failure.
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Old 10-21-2014 | 05:05 PM
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Yes you have to use tekno out drives.Be sure to shim out drives.Next be sure to shim diff in the mounts,as there will be a lot of front to rear play.Its easy just takes a little time.I didn't take any pictures while I was installing it.sorry.
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Old 10-27-2014 | 11:43 AM
  #610  
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I forgot to tighten down the flywheel nut and killed the shoes and collet after only a few runs. I have been out of the Nitro world for awhile and seeing what you guys would recommend for getting a replacement clutch. Should I stick with a Tekno one or go with an aftermarket clutch?
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Old 10-27-2014 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sroufe7
I forgot to tighten down the flywheel nut and killed the shoes and collet after only a few runs. I have been out of the Nitro world for awhile and seeing what you guys would recommend for getting a replacement clutch. Should I stick with a Tekno one or go with an aftermarket clutch?
The Tekno ones are great but I tried the Buku clutch this summer and have loved it for its adjustability on the fly (literally) and long wear. Ive had the same clutch adn shoes on my buggy since june and they are still like new. Unfortunately Buku gets some bad reviews but its mainly because of their poor instructions and guys end up not doing it right and melting their clutch. But its fairly simple, you just need to use ONLY a brand new bell that has been used with any other type of clutch and it must be Vented. I use the vented Serpent bells on mine and its great just needs some artful shimming to center to shoes on the usable part of the bell.
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Old 10-28-2014 | 04:08 AM
  #612  
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Nice to race with you again MO, looking forward to traveling to different tracks with Graham next season. Im a diehard Tekno truggy fan. I now have 3 Nt48s
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Old 10-28-2014 | 06:11 AM
  #613  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
The Tekno ones are great but I tried the Buku clutch this summer and have loved it for its adjustability on the fly (literally) and long wear. Ive had the same clutch adn shoes on my buggy since june and they are still like new. Unfortunately Buku gets some bad reviews but its mainly because of their poor instructions and guys end up not doing it right and melting their clutch. But its fairly simple, you just need to use ONLY a brand new bell that has been used with any other type of clutch and it must be Vented. I use the vented Serpent bells on mine and its great just needs some artful shimming to center to shoes on the usable part of the bell.

Sounds good, thank you for your input. I was thinking about getting some new shoes for the Tekno clutch and getting a Buku to try out. I ordered the clutch last night, today I'll be ordering up a new clutch bell or two and some other parts. Now hopefully it will stay decent out the next couple of weeks so I can get some run time on the clutch for an Indoor Winter series starts up!
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Old 10-28-2014 | 06:33 AM
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What is the result of using the LRC block?I haven't tryed it yet.
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Old 10-28-2014 | 03:38 PM
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any word on the arrival of the new spur gear yet?
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