Tekno NT48 Thread
#1546
mine is a nitroshop mod with a ceramic rear bearing(mine was the dyno charts neal posted).the paloma has to be the fastest motor per $ out there.
#1548
Just figured out why i was chipping spur with the m2c mount. The .25 roma has a slightly bigger crank case than .21 size motor. The mounting holes are slightly further away and because the stock mount uses seperate left and right mount, it doesnt cause any issue but the m2c mount, mounts to one piece main body. This caused an improper fitment and the crank case to tilt at some point. The reason why the m2c was fine on my buggy was because I was using Nova keep off 4 .21 !
So just a heads up guys dont mate the m2c with anything bigger than a .21
So just a heads up guys dont mate the m2c with anything bigger than a .21
#1549
NT48.3 is on order. I know on the NB48.3 page there is a wiki on key things to pay attention to and things to get for the car (part wise). Is there a list of things to pay attention to or things that are needed ASAP for the truck (other than what is mentioned in the first post)?
Thank you
Thank you
#1550
NT48.3 is on order. I know on the NB48.3 page there is a wiki on key things to pay attention to and things to get for the car (part wise). Is there a list of things to pay attention to or things that are needed ASAP for the truck (other than what is mentioned in the first post)?
Thank you
Thank you
#1554
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 419
From: United States
Bypass911,
I can tell you they will not work, because I tried. They are about 10mm too short.
Now that Tekno has universals available for the EB48/NB48 platform, hopefully they will release some for the ET48/NT48 platform.
I can tell you they will not work, because I tried. They are about 10mm too short.
Now that Tekno has universals available for the EB48/NB48 platform, hopefully they will release some for the ET48/NT48 platform.
#1555
I thought it was shimmed to far out as well, I took the only shin that was before the rear bell bearing out and it still didn't touch the far rear portion of the shoe, Maybe I'll try another rear bell bearing and see if it fits better. All the Losi clutched I've seen create that same ledge on the far rear portion of the shoe. But thanks for the input. I dremel'd the bell with a wire brush, I'll see if it wears into the werks shoes the same way on Friday. If I have time I'll swap back to the TEKNO clutch between qualifiers and see how it acts with the bell being worn in better.
#1556
my modified Roma would give you nearly 10 (if not 10 ) pretty easily ! using a much bigger insert no less.............. A huge issue is setup, pipe and manifold...small inserts don't always pay off with increasing mileage and in some cases can make it worse...for a .25 a 7 mm is too small and is choking the engine and making it work harder....
#1557
Cool thanks for that info, exactly what I wanted to know.
Since the StRR unis are 130mm we need to find something around 140mm.
#1558
my modified Roma would give you nearly 10 (if not 10 ) pretty easily ! using a much bigger insert no less.............. A huge issue is setup, pipe and manifold...small inserts don't always pay off with increasing mileage and in some cases can make it worse...for a .25 a 7 mm is too small and is choking the engine and making it work harder....
#1559
Yes I broke it in just as I would any other clutch. I put brand new shoes in, a brand new bell and broke in the clutch. Tried using it again and it still wears much faster than the lutz or werks clutches I run. I'm just sticking with the lutz clutch now. It has held up after long mains and wears nice. Helps they are much more affordable as well. I've found for me coming from Mugen I have to set the truck up very soft AE oils 35 in the front and 30 in the back with taper up. It drives like a dream now. I had my p7r Evo 3 barely broken in last weekend and the top end needle housing backed out in my main. Kinda wrecked my weekend and my points for the series but it is what it is.



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