Its seems to be situational. Some of us have not broken any and others have
gone through several. The new tanks will be worth the wait.

The builds go very smooth. A couple of tips.

Read the fuel tank mods post I did a few pages back. http://www.rctech.net/forum/13159518-post1114.html

Make sure you get ALL the plastic flashing off the shock cartridge
parts or they will bind the shocks.

Use a body ream to lightly tapper just the very end of the rod end
holes where the turnbuckles thread in and use chapstick or grease
on the threads.

I had another test day with the car to further refine my setup. I am going
to stay with the motor in the forward position for awhile as this is working
so well. I have never driven a car with this much steering that squares up
so well under power.

Changes from the box setup are

4.5 rear toe in
Swap the sway bars around
Shorten the wheelbase
and move the hub pivot in the rear inboard.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...44-image-1.jpg

glad to see you getting it sorted, now just a question for you if you don't mind

well I am one of the lucky ones that have not broken a tank now after almost two gallons, but I did buy a new one just incase there was any problems now my question is would we still get a updated one?????? or would it only be for the people who have had issues with there tanks?????

I am pretty sure Tekno will replace tanks mate.

The costumer comes 1st in there minds and they will look after you for sure

I am the same I broke tank on 1st run and have not broken anything since. But yes new tanks will be for all

We have found that the car seems to like a short wheel base and 4 or more degrees of rear toe also. Sweeping the arms back really helped too.

Yes. If you bought an NB48 kit, you will get a new tank. Full details and instructions when we have the tanks in our warehouse. Thanks.

Im waiting on the new tank as well. That and one of my bodies to come back from the painter lol.

Plus nature hasnt been nice to us around Chicago the last few weeks so good run time (and a track that is open outdoor) have been my issues.

But Im pumped and ready to get this thing in the dirt and be ready for the Midwest Nitro Series in a couple weeks.

Does it mean that i (living on the other side of Pacific) gonna receive new tank w/o problem?

Hey,. Could you elaborate a little on the sweeping back of the arms? The front or rear arms? And what did it help with? It's not a common adjustment, so just curious. I would get out and test for myself but our meets keep getting canned cos of bad weather ATM. Cheers

I believe it would be the front arms

Front arms. There is a good description of sweep on the first page of this thread. But me and Asher were doing some testing and by sweeping the arms back (pills facing outside) we were able to keep the car flatter (not transferring a bunch of weight to the rear lifting the front up) when applying throttle coming out of turns, and seemed to more natural and planted thru the turn.....but to explain it better this is from the first page....can't explain it much better:)

Arm Sweep
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)

When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.

You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about

Ok thanks, I have read the description on the front page before, but it didn't sound like anything I needed to play with. However your experience sounds to me like its acting similar in some ways to anti-squat, but without the loose rear end that (more) anti squat adjustments tend to induce, so that is interesting. I will def experiment with it. Cheers

yes mate i am from australia and other countries and tekno customers will be looked after by Danny and crew

they look after there costomers from all over the world not just the usa

To reiterate what DBL15 said, we will be taking care of all customers, in the USA or not.

thia is good as im in the UK and n one here runs the buggy only me lol lol lol

Brraaa braaaa braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap

First nitro in a long time, but the class is going to be HUGE at our new local track. Just a quick club race and a new facility and we already had four full heats of buggy's. Big nitro race this weekend. Doubt I'll make it in time, but we'll see ;)

I boiled the tank and just need to find thicker fuel tube to do the clunk mod tonight (hitting a small bike shop that also has an rc or two at lunch). Being a EB48 and SCT410 owner, you can put 90% of this thing together without even looking at the manual.

It is very cool to see a lot of the "upgrade" components as part of the standard kit. Tekno keeps up the good work for sure.

http://mad-skillz.com/rc/04.30.2014-1.jpg

http://mad-skillz.com/rc/04.30.2014-2.jpg