I think the only thing that is pretty much mandatory would be the aluminum steering horn and the LRC rear pivot block. That will give you the options you need to have something reliable and dialed in pretty much everywhere.

+1 That will get you off to a good start. For spares I would get inner hinge pins and front arms. They aren't fragile but arms are usually the first thing to break on a buggy in a heavy crash.

Thanks guys for the quick response

The lrc rear block is more of a tuning option .

I myself have been working on taking rear grip out of the car. Even with the kit " D " suspension plate.

As far as durability, the car is as tough as you can get.

Spares ,, front arms , front shock shafts and shock ends front inner hinge pins, also wear items such as clutch shoes and bearings.


d

Spot on well said.

I've never actually broken a Tanko arm or an inner hinge pin and I race three Teknos every weekend. If on a budget, just buy the kit and metal servo horn and you are are set for a while. If you like to be prepared no matter what, then yea arms, shock shafts, camber links and hinge pins are nice but I've never really broken any of those things or any plastic other than the rear diff case on the EB when I didn't run the rear brace, I'd recommend an extra set of front/rear shafts and if you want the only hop ups that don't come in the kit then you can get the aluminum center drive shafts which are a good upgrade. Clutch shoes are a good wear item and always nice to have. otherwise, honestly unless you are new to RC and will be doing ALOT of VIOLENT like first time ever driving anything RC crashing, then the NB48 doesn't need a ton of parts, haha. it's all in the box except the servo horn. LRC block is nice for some situations but by no means a necessity if on a budget. I would also recommend the new 10 degree offset brake cams and redesigned droop screws, I don't think these have been added to the kits but this will help the brakes a lot. Feel free to message me if you have any specific questions about the kit or build or set ups, happy to help.

The only thing I broke on the buggy in a season of racing was a rear diff case. After that I just run both rear chassis braces. I cant really think of anything that
you would REALLY need. There are just no weak spots.

Maybe a avid bearing kit and some misc plastic like arms and steering knuckles.

Haha really Danny? Two reasons I thought they weren't solid, one because they are so darn light and second because I had one bend it a nasty crash and then it hit my engine mount corner for the rest of the race and it was so chewed up it looked as tho it was hollow and crimped like a tube. I may have a picture somewhere. Very interesting, I stand corrected ha! But otherwise I've never bent or broken any of the aluminum shafts when running rear brace.

Ok guys and gals I am still working on the noise issue
But some findings are as follows
I have re shimmed front and rear diffs so there is no play in side to side movement in the diff casing and spins 100% true to the pinion mesh so there is just the right amount of backlash. One thing I did notice is after a little period of time make note and check that the out drive you attach to the diff pinons to the centre driveshafts are set all the way against the shim and bearing that's mounted in the diff housing.
Number two is I am waiting on my new main or spur gear as some call it as that's the last thing that's not new. I also moved the engine back to the forward mount position thinking it shouldn't make any difference in noise and to be honest I think it's just a thing in my head saying it's a little quieter but I would say not. So all in all right now spur gear is coming but with everything else all gone over there will be no excuse when the new spur gear is on.

Thanks for the help and I hope all the little things I shared reminds others of the things I have gone thru to get a new smooth drivetrain
Cheers
Fordy

Usually get noisy when the engine isnt aligned properly. Once that has happened, it will always be noisy. They're spendy but replacing the clutch bell and spur will quiet it down, just be sure the engine is properly aligned with the new parts and you should be in good shape.

You should doublecheck one certain place: engine axis should be as parallel as possible with c.diff axis. Last time i've spent about 20 minutes adjusting spur-bell mesh to make it right

An engraved index on the chassis would be a great future feature

What set up is eveyone using as a base.

I think most people are using either Mo's or Danny's setup. You can find them both on Tekno's site. Both use similar geometry with different shock packages.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...e_Hardpack.pdf

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...h_med_bite.pdf

Mo's setup is a great starting point and you don't have to move far from it. I'm curious to see what Lutz brings to the table though