adjusting steering expo to have -15 expo on my Futaba really made a HUGE difference for me. And steering stops also help alot, otherwise when the servo is a full throw the ackerman cant move any further but the hubs have a bit more mechanical movement and will wiggle without the stops and adjust EPA for it as well. I believe Mo's setup uses 1.5 rear anti squat so the middle dot pill would take it up to 2 degrees, double dot Up is 2.5, and single dot up is 3.

I dont run any expo on the steering and really cant get the rear to step out unless I'm out of the line and in the dust. In the groove, man, it's just insane how good it is.

The track I was running at was dry, hard packed, and fairly smooth in the groove. Blockades, Impacts, Cubez, and Catapults all worked pretty well. The Blockades were better over a larger range of conditions but the Catapults were the best for the most part. The Impacts had the worst wear characteristics and the Cubez had the narrowest window for working well (soft compound but needed 80°+ to work really well).

From Mo's setup, I dropped 50cst front and rear. I tried the setup without the LRC pivot block (was waiting on the postman) and it was fairly loose but once install, it totally transformed the setup and really locked the car in. It is a very aggressive setup and begs to be driven the same way, you can really blast into corners and just throw it in without worrying about traction rolls or big slides. I tried 5/5/5 and 5/5/4 and actually like 5/5/5 for that track a little better (5/5/4 would diff out occasionally when I was really on the power mid corner through the higher speed infield turns). If you arent already, 5/5/4 may help you out of bit however. Oh, I'm running a bit more droop than Mo's setup as well but I wouldnt expect that to be a major contributor to your condition unless they're drastically different. I cant remember Mo's ride height off the top of my head but I ended up at 27/27 I think.

I would first think diff shims but since you changed those I would make sure there is no bind in the arms. that will make it loose getting on the gas and inconsistant. if the chassis and all is well and you need more on power traction you can drop the center diff to 4K and run 5F 4C 4R. that will make it a little lazy getting on power.
also increase front droop if the rear is getting loose, this will dump more weight on the rear tires

Can anyone tell me where I can find the "tekno tuning guide"? Thanks!

His name is Mo, send him a PM...

Which expo do you run? + or -? I noticed that when I'm racing I tend to turn the wheel but sometimes on sharp 180 turns I tend to not turn the wheel to full lock. I am trying to work on being smooth and all but I was thinking about using the programming on my mt4 to help make up for my deficiency.

Twins ready for the weekend.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...5883-image.jpg

Yep, same experience as myself. Couple of things that helped for me were running a heavy flywheel. Was running an ultra light Fioroni swapped it out to a weight adjustable M2C, night and day difference, but this only worked cos my engine is super strong on the bottom and too much for light buggy. Also I shorten the wheelbase, which is similar to adding more front droop in that it transfers weight rearward on acceleration, but doesn't affect cornering like altering droop does. I think mo setup has 3 mm in front of hub, I run 2 or 1. This will also give slightly more toe in, but that helps the cause anyway.

I was doing the same thing as well. Try adjusting the actual mechanical throw of the steering wheel on your mt4, it has little adjustable grub screws behind the steering wheel, I shortened the throw by about half, worked for me. Just be aware that it will quicken the steering because the computer compensates for the shortened throw by speeding up the rate. If it becomes too fast, just use curves or expo to tame it back down. The manual explains it pretty well if you get stuck.

where did you get those throttle servo horns?!!

Those are made by ProTek

Yes they are proteks. You have to give up the bearings though and fit the slider with a lock nut on the back. The brake mount just needs a longer screw. Not plug and play. If you have built linkage before it's not a problem.

Very nice!

See ya then!

hey there bud! I'm interested! If u can wait till this next Friday I'd love to buy it .my birthday is in a few weeks and wanted to buy one as a gift to me. I know u probably already have offers.but if it hasn't gone by Friday the 3rd or Saturday the 5th I'll definitely buy it.im gonna buy it anyway. And I'm sorry brother I couldn't figure out how to pm u here lol.but I'm on face book and my email is [email protected] I get lucky and no one buys it lol
.but if u do its all good