MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

holes for the weights front and rear

harder chassis coating for better wear.

Chris Reilly

More than that

Overthetopracin

Chris, you know what other changes were made? Since it's same part #, considered a running change instead of new part right??
I know the blocks were changed, to raise roll center.

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

Your Question was about chassis.

I'd be interested to know what else as well, if there is additional changes to chassis that I missed...

Are you asking about B3 to b3.1?

mccoy

iTrader: (21)

anyone have try both rc8b3 and 3,1? any big differences between both in driving ? not sure yet which one to choose..new 3,1 or used 3 thx

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

I have a 3.1 and my kid has the 3. I set them up essentially the same, with the only differences being the different parts: 3 vs. 4 shoe clutch, new CVD's & diffs vs. old Universals and V1 diffs, V2 vs. V1 springs, etc.

Although the 3.1 improvements are noticeable, the overall feel of the two rides is very close. In the hands of a club racer, the either one will be just as quick.

mccoy

iTrader: (21)

thx rc pete!

dan-o

iTrader: (105)

I have the rc8b3, can i use rc8b3.1 diffs? is it a drop in fit?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

I have the 3 as well and was told that the input pinion and diff cases are new on the .1 in addition to the diff itself.

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

the new pinion has a little flatter face (facing the diff case when installed)..

You can knock down just a touch of it, or try and see if it fits.

but yes, they drop in.

If you're running V2, none of the parts interchange.

Minimal V1 parts interchange, V1 outdrives are the new 15mm rears, ring gears and spur gear..

Chris Reilly

Does anyone know if anything is new

captain america

iTrader: (12)

They are most assuredly testing new bits for the worlds later this year, but nothing new to report ATM.

DK9mm

iTrader: (7)

Hello all, I just picked up a 3 with some 3.1 stuff on it. A couple of questions:

1. How can I tell what version diffs are in it? What is the identification factor?
2. If I change the universals to cvas does anything else need to change?
3. I’ve been told to not install the diff gasket so that the gear mesh I better and tighter. Is this true?

Thank you for your time.

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

1. You should be able to tell by the outdrives. V3 diffs have outdrives marked with 17mm (front & center) and 15mm in the rear. V1 diffs have the same length outdrives as the 17mm but with no markings. Both V1 & V3 outdrives have a 6mm shaft. V2 diff outdrives have a 5mm shaft. The internals and ring/spur gears are different between the 3, but harder to identify unless you look at pictures.

2. If you have universals, you probably have the V1 or V2 diffs (same outdrive length front & rear) and the 93.5 front Universals & 90.5 rear.
. You have 2 options for CVAs: either go with the B3 versions that are 95.5mm front & 92.5mm rear, which work with V1 or V2 diffs. Or go with the new B3.1 94mm CVAs all around which require the V3 diffs (17mm front outdrives, 15mm rear).

3. For the V1 diffs, a good starting point is no gasket and 2 x 0.2mm thin shims behind each sun gear, and 1 washer behind each spider gear. For V2 and V3 diffs, use the gasket and the shimming recommended in the manual as a starting point.
V2 diff supplement: https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...81362-Supp.pdf
V3 diffs assembly is in the B3.1 manual

If you want to play with the shimming, first build them with no fluid and check the diff action. It should be smooth with very little play in the system. I'd first build it a little tighter (extra shimming) and then remove shims until it feels smooth.

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

I think V1 are 15mm outdrives front and rear. Ring gear and spurs are the same from 1 and 3.