Chris Peralta

Kaken, I have a setup I feel like would work decent at fear farm. I have not been there this year but plan on coming out a few times this winter when I cannot gas race here. If you wana try it out that would be awesome, I'd love to hear how it works for ya before I just show up and try, but in past cars when I have a setup that works well here it has been even better out there. This PDF is too big to attach.. leme try a few other things

Chris Peralta

I tried this early on, Also tried the inside low holes on C and D. That is one of the many things I have tried and gone back and forth on. This past weekend tho I did get my car the best it has been, and it was quite easy to drive compared to the stock setup. I set my fastest overall lap time for the year as well as the fastest qual I have ran. This is only compared to my 3.0 as I have not run the Mugen on this layout.

Chris Peralta

Hope this works

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

Can anyone tell me if the rc8.2 skid plates will work with this buggy?

Kakenballs

iTrader: (11)

Hey Chris shoot me a pm so we can talk.

Kakenballs

iTrader: (11)

Also fear farm is doing a nov fuel nats.

wreckingball

Just installed my mc2 chassis and rear hanger , beautiful bit of engineering.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

H83R

iTrader: (24)

just listed it.

sc10racer96

iTrader: (3)

hey guys I have a quick question,
I'm new to the whole metric tool world so I am going to buy all the tools I will need when I order the car. Can you guys tell me what hex wrenches and what size nut drivers I will need. Thanks in advance

Jwilloughby

You will need a 1.5, 2.0, and 2.5mm allen driver along with a 5.5mm nut driver. A 5mm turnbuckle wrench will be useful as well.

coneman

i would recommend getting a 5/64 tool instead of the 2mm. is a better fit in screw head

DmonEY

iTrader: (8)

I just picked one up is there anything to no
When building and anything that the Buggy needs
Thanks for any help

Jwilloughby

Make sure you follow the yellow supplemental sheet that comes with the instructions. Especially where it concerns the servo saver. The kit spring I got would reach max compression (bottom out on itself) without reaching the full stroke of the servo saver arms -- even when set by the 1mm recommended gap. This caused me to break the plastic servo arm and bend two aluminum ones before I figured it out. I replaced it with an Xray XB9 spring, and all is good. Also, check your tank where the springs sit and make sure it's not cracked. Then, bend the ends of the springs up to make sure they don't dig into the tank. After that, open the lid and make sure the clunk drops all the way up and down. I had to trim the fuel tubing on mine to get it to act right. Otherwise, just follow the manual, and you're good.

Jwilloughby

Has anyone tried running chassis weights in the rear of this buggy yet?