1LikesHot Bodies D812
08-19-2015, 07:05 AM
#6616
We had a charity paint off competition last weekend and have this one entry that did not meet the reserve. It's for a custom airbrushed HB D8 Trick body by Erik Everett. All proceeds go to Schreibers Pediatric Rehab of Lancaster County. Let's bid this up! This is for Charity!!!
I'm told this body should fit both D812 and D815.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381364057244
I'm told this body should fit both D812 and D815.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381364057244
08-19-2015, 07:10 AM
#6617
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Trophy-B...item56691a41e4
The link above is directly fit to D812 if you are wanting to get the gearing of D815 which is (43/13), ring gear and pinion respectively. Just buy 2 of them. Along with it, just buy the 110 mm dogbone and 83mm dogbone from HPI Vorza. To me, that's the only biggest changed has been done to D815. Of course, you gotta get the 13T CB.
Cheaper way to upgrade your gearing ratio. I did this and been racing with it... I'm one happy camper.
The link above is directly fit to D812 if you are wanting to get the gearing of D815 which is (43/13), ring gear and pinion respectively. Just buy 2 of them. Along with it, just buy the 110 mm dogbone and 83mm dogbone from HPI Vorza. To me, that's the only biggest changed has been done to D815. Of course, you gotta get the 13T CB.
Cheaper way to upgrade your gearing ratio. I did this and been racing with it... I'm one happy camper.
08-19-2015, 07:19 PM
#6618
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Trophy-B...item56691a41e4
The link above is directly fit to D812 if you are wanting to get the gearing of D815 which is (43/13), ring gear and pinion respectively. Just buy 2 of them. Along with it, just buy the 110 mm dogbone and 83mm dogbone from HPI Vorza. To me, that's the only biggest changed has been done to D815. Of course, you gotta get the 13T CB.
Cheaper way to upgrade your gearing ratio. I did this and been racing with it... I'm one happy camper.
The link above is directly fit to D812 if you are wanting to get the gearing of D815 which is (43/13), ring gear and pinion respectively. Just buy 2 of them. Along with it, just buy the 110 mm dogbone and 83mm dogbone from HPI Vorza. To me, that's the only biggest changed has been done to D815. Of course, you gotta get the 13T CB.
Cheaper way to upgrade your gearing ratio. I did this and been racing with it... I'm one happy camper.
Also.....what does doing this change on the buggy? I'm kinda lost at what this changes? Does it make the drive ratio change? Can someone explain what it does for me? Thanks!
08-20-2015, 06:43 AM
#6619
So let me get this straight....this comes with everything you need except the center dogbones and a 13t Clutchbell? You don't need to change the spur gear?
Also.....what does doing this change on the buggy? I'm kinda lost at what this changes? Does it make the drive ratio change? Can someone explain what it does for me? Thanks!
Also.....what does doing this change on the buggy? I'm kinda lost at what this changes? Does it make the drive ratio change? Can someone explain what it does for me? Thanks!
Last edited by Socket; 08-20-2015 at 07:22 AM.
08-24-2015, 12:18 PM
#6621
08-24-2015, 12:31 PM
#6622
You have to elongate the holes for sure. I have all the parts heading my way to try this change in gearing. You also need to grind down the mounting tabs on the motor block, and switch to a button head screw on the rear motor mount. I will snap some pics this week if I get it done.
08-24-2015, 12:57 PM
#6623
Fellas i to was going to make the changes to gearing, cause i so loved my 12! Im telling u.........sale it put the 200 toward a new 15! Its worth it!!!!
08-24-2015, 07:04 PM
#6624
I bought those diff parts on ebay to convert my D812 gearing to the D815....I only used the ring and pinion gear and the new bearings. In my opinion the diff gears are not quite as nice as the D812 ones are so I kept those. They also come packed with grease so...they need re-building right off with real diff oil if you choose to use the entire parts in that ebay auction.
I have ordered a bunch of the other D815 parts as well to retrofit my buggy...As far as the 13tooth clutchbell fitting...I think it will fit once you put in the new D815 center bulkhead/diff/brake housing etc. I have mine in and it's been moved closer to the engine so much that the 16tooth will no longer mesh as it did with the old center bulkhead. You would need to move the engine further AWAY from the spur gear. It does however require you to slot 2 of the mounting holes on the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis. Not really as big a deal as the motor slots needed modification.
I will post more info once I have ALL the parts here and installed. I would recommend getting the center bulkhead, brake cams, and levers though.....
I have ordered a bunch of the other D815 parts as well to retrofit my buggy...As far as the 13tooth clutchbell fitting...I think it will fit once you put in the new D815 center bulkhead/diff/brake housing etc. I have mine in and it's been moved closer to the engine so much that the 16tooth will no longer mesh as it did with the old center bulkhead. You would need to move the engine further AWAY from the spur gear. It does however require you to slot 2 of the mounting holes on the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis. Not really as big a deal as the motor slots needed modification.
I will post more info once I have ALL the parts here and installed. I would recommend getting the center bulkhead, brake cams, and levers though.....
08-24-2015, 08:38 PM
#6625
I bought those diff parts on ebay to convert my D812 gearing to the D815....I only used the ring and pinion gear and the new bearings. In my opinion the diff gears are not quite as nice as the D812 ones are so I kept those. They also come packed with grease so...they need re-building right off with real diff oil if you choose to use the entire parts in that ebay auction.
I have ordered a bunch of the other D815 parts as well to retrofit my buggy...As far as the 13tooth clutchbell fitting...I think it will fit once you put in the new D815 center bulkhead/diff/brake housing etc. I have mine in and it's been moved closer to the engine so much that the 16tooth will no longer mesh as it did with the old center bulkhead. You would need to move the engine further AWAY from the spur gear. It does however require you to slot 2 of the mounting holes on the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis. Not really as big a deal as the motor slots needed modification.
I will post more info once I have ALL the parts here and installed. I would recommend getting the center bulkhead, brake cams, and levers though.....
I have ordered a bunch of the other D815 parts as well to retrofit my buggy...As far as the 13tooth clutchbell fitting...I think it will fit once you put in the new D815 center bulkhead/diff/brake housing etc. I have mine in and it's been moved closer to the engine so much that the 16tooth will no longer mesh as it did with the old center bulkhead. You would need to move the engine further AWAY from the spur gear. It does however require you to slot 2 of the mounting holes on the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis. Not really as big a deal as the motor slots needed modification.
I will post more info once I have ALL the parts here and installed. I would recommend getting the center bulkhead, brake cams, and levers though.....
I am not going to do the center bulkhead or brake system, I'll just move to the D815 for that.
However, I will do the same as you for using the ring and pinion, and just bag the rest of the parts to hold on to.
08-25-2015, 10:07 AM
#6626
I bought those diff parts on ebay to convert my D812 gearing to the D815....I only used the ring and pinion gear and the new bearings. In my opinion the diff gears are not quite as nice as the D812 ones are so I kept those. They also come packed with grease so...they need re-building right off with real diff oil if you choose to use the entire parts in that ebay auction.
I have ordered a bunch of the other D815 parts as well to retrofit my buggy...As far as the 13tooth clutchbell fitting...I think it will fit once you put in the new D815 center bulkhead/diff/brake housing etc. I have mine in and it's been moved closer to the engine so much that the 16tooth will no longer mesh as it did with the old center bulkhead. You would need to move the engine further AWAY from the spur gear. It does however require you to slot 2 of the mounting holes on the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis. Not really as big a deal as the motor slots needed modification.
I will post more info once I have ALL the parts here and installed. I would recommend getting the center bulkhead, brake cams, and levers though.....
I have ordered a bunch of the other D815 parts as well to retrofit my buggy...As far as the 13tooth clutchbell fitting...I think it will fit once you put in the new D815 center bulkhead/diff/brake housing etc. I have mine in and it's been moved closer to the engine so much that the 16tooth will no longer mesh as it did with the old center bulkhead. You would need to move the engine further AWAY from the spur gear. It does however require you to slot 2 of the mounting holes on the bottom of the bulkhead to the chassis. Not really as big a deal as the motor slots needed modification.
I will post more info once I have ALL the parts here and installed. I would recommend getting the center bulkhead, brake cams, and levers though.....
08-26-2015, 09:59 AM
#6627
It fits if you slot 2 of the mounting holes as I explained in my previous post. Trust me...i did it.
08-26-2015, 02:57 PM
#6629
I am talking about slotting the chassis NOT the plastic bulkhead.
Option A. Use a dremel and a carbide burr to make 2 of the mounting holes 'slotted' instead of round as they are. You need to elongate the countersink as well so the flathead screws will stay flush with the bottom of the chassis.
Option B. Do the same as option A. but use a drill press or milling machine and carbide endmill to slot the hole and then use a countersink to countersink the chassis again, so the screws sit flush with the bottom of the chassis.
I make this sound complicated but its really quite simple when you see it. I can't post pics tonite...maybe friday??? If anyone is still unsure.
Option A. Use a dremel and a carbide burr to make 2 of the mounting holes 'slotted' instead of round as they are. You need to elongate the countersink as well so the flathead screws will stay flush with the bottom of the chassis.
Option B. Do the same as option A. but use a drill press or milling machine and carbide endmill to slot the hole and then use a countersink to countersink the chassis again, so the screws sit flush with the bottom of the chassis.
I make this sound complicated but its really quite simple when you see it. I can't post pics tonite...maybe friday??? If anyone is still unsure.
08-26-2015, 03:46 PM
#6630
I am talking about slotting the chassis NOT the plastic bulkhead.
Option A. Use a dremel and a carbide burr to make 2 of the mounting holes 'slotted' instead of round as they are. You need to elongate the countersink as well so the flathead screws will stay flush with the bottom of the chassis.
Option B. Do the same as option A. but use a drill press or milling machine and carbide endmill to slot the hole and then use a countersink to countersink the chassis again, so the screws sit flush with the bottom of the chassis.
I make this sound complicated but its really quite simple when you see it. I can't post pics tonite...maybe friday??? If anyone is still unsure.
Option A. Use a dremel and a carbide burr to make 2 of the mounting holes 'slotted' instead of round as they are. You need to elongate the countersink as well so the flathead screws will stay flush with the bottom of the chassis.
Option B. Do the same as option A. but use a drill press or milling machine and carbide endmill to slot the hole and then use a countersink to countersink the chassis again, so the screws sit flush with the bottom of the chassis.
I make this sound complicated but its really quite simple when you see it. I can't post pics tonite...maybe friday??? If anyone is still unsure.
If you could, that would be great. I thought slotting the plastic seemed very odd.
