O.S. Vspec or Novarossi .21 bf limited?
05-05-2009, 02:02 PM
#31
I personally think you strangle the engine a bit with a bottom end pipe like the 053. The V-spec is a low end mill (meaning torque not price) coupling it to a low end pipe will give you more bottom than you need and not enough mid-top end, so you may suffer some on the straights. The two best pipes are the JP-3 and the 2050 (re-11). The JP-3 is a fuel hog though and you will pay $20 more for it, and get up to 4 minutes less run time! The V-spec has all the bottom you need as is, so get the pipe that was made to go with it which is the Re-11, or if you want to pay double the price find a OS 2050. These are my experiences, and will differ from other peoples, but I already tried them all, so you don't have to
if you are racing on a really small track with no long straights the only major differences you will notice with pipes are run times, and smoothness of powerband
if you are racing on a really small track with no long straights the only major differences you will notice with pipes are run times, and smoothness of powerbandI have actually found the JP-3 to get great milage on the v-spec. I got 11-12 minutes runtime in my truggy on a huge track(motorama track 200' straight). That was running at 200*F with the 9mm restrictor. A fully race tuned engine with correct restrictor(7 or 8 mm) would have gotten close to 15 min. To me that is pretty damn good. Now I know the other pipes get more runtime, but IMO the JP-3 is NOT a fuel hog on the v-spec. They are on most engines, but from my experiences they aren't on the OS. The EB 2041 is also a great pipe for the v-spec. Better runtime than the 3 with about the same powerband. RE-11 is on my list right now. Been meaning to try it.
Oh and I found the 053 to be a pretty good fit. It really smoothed it out and made it easier to drive. A good fit for a buggy, or slippery condidions. Just my findings.
05-05-2009, 02:03 PM
#32
The RE11 looks a lot like the 2050 but has anyone run it and verified that it runs the same? The 2050 is considered a low end pipe (it's long) and V-specs scream on top with it. I think the low-end/high end thing isn't all that useful, it's more what matches a given engine.
05-05-2009, 02:22 PM
#33
Ok, so my LHS has the Vspec, and Dynamite 053 in stock. I'm going to pick those up this weekend. I've got a pair of brand new servos, (1015, 1313) for steering/throttle, and a brand new rx battery. So this should be a pretty good setup correct? I just want to make sure I am doing stuff RIGHT, and not settling for something just because it costs less.
05-05-2009, 02:26 PM
#34
Ok, so my LHS has the Vspec, and Dynamite 053 in stock. I'm going to pick those up this weekend. I've got a pair of brand new servos, (1015, 1313) for steering/throttle, and a brand new rx battery. So this should be a pretty good setup correct? I just want to make sure I am doing stuff RIGHT, and not settling for something just because it costs less.
05-05-2009, 02:29 PM
#35
I've run it, but I have not run the 2050. I think it has to do with the chambers. Even though it is long and looks like a low end pipe. It really keeps the engine pulling and gives the smoothest powerband and the best runtimes. Lets also remember that OS made the 2050 just for the V-spec engine, and the RE-11 is supposed to be a copy of the 2050.
I'm no pro, but a pro engine guy told me the best bet is usually a pipe that contradicts the engine.
3-4 ports= low end engine= high end pipe
5-8 ports=high end engine=low end pipe
of course like engine tuning there is no set formula. It's all trial and error, but I can tell you from expierience here at "The Nitro Pit"..I have tried JP3, JP2, JP4, 053, 086, and RE-11 on my V-spec and I wont use anything else but the RE-11 from now on. I would think different tracks, and drivers, and track layouts will make other people prefer other pipes
I'm no pro, but a pro engine guy told me the best bet is usually a pipe that contradicts the engine.
3-4 ports= low end engine= high end pipe
5-8 ports=high end engine=low end pipe
of course like engine tuning there is no set formula. It's all trial and error, but I can tell you from expierience here at "The Nitro Pit"..I have tried JP3, JP2, JP4, 053, 086, and RE-11 on my V-spec and I wont use anything else but the RE-11 from now on. I would think different tracks, and drivers, and track layouts will make other people prefer other pipes
05-05-2009, 02:48 PM
#36
I'm just gonna keep my JP4, and save it for something else. I already have about 4-5 servos laying around that would work well in a nitro, and a Losi dsm rx. I'm probably gonna scoop the novarossi .21 bf, and basically, I have enough stuff for a truggy too...all I would need is a roller 
I am just taking another run at this nitro thing, with a good setup, learn it, and then if I catch on, get a truggy. I just think I'm fooling myself into thinking nitro is so much more difficult than electric stuff. I'm just hung up on tuning, I don't know how to do it, and I don't know what the car is supposed to FEEL like if my bottom is too lean/fat, and if my top end is too lean/fat.
I am just taking another run at this nitro thing, with a good setup, learn it, and then if I catch on, get a truggy. I just think I'm fooling myself into thinking nitro is so much more difficult than electric stuff. I'm just hung up on tuning, I don't know how to do it, and I don't know what the car is supposed to FEEL like if my bottom is too lean/fat, and if my top end is too lean/fat.
05-05-2009, 03:41 PM
#37
The V-SPEC would be alot easier to tune for you.
05-05-2009, 04:39 PM
#40
I'm just gonna keep my JP4, and save it for something else. I already have about 4-5 servos laying around that would work well in a nitro, and a Losi dsm rx. I'm probably gonna scoop the novarossi .21 bf, and basically, I have enough stuff for a truggy too...all I would need is a roller
I am just taking another run at this nitro thing, with a good setup, learn it, and then if I catch on, get a truggy. I just think I'm fooling myself into thinking nitro is so much more difficult than electric stuff. I'm just hung up on tuning, I don't know how to do it, and I don't know what the car is supposed to FEEL like if my bottom is too lean/fat, and if my top end is too lean/fat.
I am just taking another run at this nitro thing, with a good setup, learn it, and then if I catch on, get a truggy. I just think I'm fooling myself into thinking nitro is so much more difficult than electric stuff. I'm just hung up on tuning, I don't know how to do it, and I don't know what the car is supposed to FEEL like if my bottom is too lean/fat, and if my top end is too lean/fat.
05-05-2009, 04:58 PM
#41
Actually, the OS 2050 pre-dates the V-spec by several years, might even be older than the VZ-b going all the way back to the VO-1b days.
05-05-2009, 05:19 PM
#43
I hate to throw a rock into this but for buggy you are better off with the os 2060, the 2050 makes the v spec a handfull if your not carefull, i even use a 2060 in truggy with the os, runtimes are better to, smoother on bottom and makes it easy to drive hard, and topend is awesome.
05-05-2009, 05:24 PM
#44
You will know when your tune is off, although you may not know how to fix it, you will see it, feel it, and hear it. One great thing about this hobby is you can go to anyone at the track and ask for help, and they will all help you tune your engine (as long as they have time) make sure you ask what they are doing and why, and not just let them do it. Good luck and have fun, keep us posted
05-05-2009, 05:35 PM
#45
I hate to throw a rock into this but for buggy you are better off with the os 2060, the 2050 makes the v spec a handfull if your not carefull, i even use a 2060 in truggy with the os, runtimes are better to, smoother on bottom and makes it easy to drive hard, and topend is awesome.