Yep ;)

rear diff
 

Sounds like my rear diff has shat itself... Can someone tell me what parts I should be buying to fix it and make it more robust. Your help is greatly appreciated.

I tried to fit my b5 pro to the Lodi 8t and had nothing but issues... If u can get it working without using the split centre case let me know.

what collor off kyosho springs you running front and rear

Split center diff is NOT needed to run ANY motor.

Agreed. Expesialy if you are running the new gen III tray.

The top plate for tbe center diff can be dremeled down to almost flat, on the end facing the carb slide, so you can get carb straight as possible, to where throttle linkage is level and 90 degrees when servo horn is in neutral position, the stock radio tray allows too much flex in the radio tray when racing, which can create carb slide binding if all is not perfect, which also can create more stress on throttle servo. The Gen III is the best way to go, regardless of what engine your using. JMO

???

Med length Light blue front, lime green rears.

There is no magic parts to buy, other than the aluminum gear box inserts. Make sure to replace the gearbox along with the inserts and diff gears. Shim them as tight as you can get them, it will feel like the rear is completely bound up. After about 15 min of runtime, the rear will be perfect. Be sure to keep an eye on the mesh of the ring and pinion. Add more shims or replace the rear gearbox when it gets loose.

+1 to what he said, especially the diff case. Best to spring for a new one when you rebuild as they tend to stretch out over time. Also, while you are doing it I would replace the bearings in the case and the shoulder bearings as well - mainly because I hate having to rebuild and shim - so I want it to last a while. I just had to do this because the inner bearing for the pinion just disintegrated - little pieces of bearing all inside the case LOL.

and, try some MOBIL 1 EP grease(the red stuff) on the ring/pinion.....works great..........

Werks. Works! And Diffs.
 

If it fits it werks. Is ther slogan. And with My 8T 2.0 RTR that is the case. I run a Werks B5 in my modded 8T 2.0 RTR truggy. And have had no issues with the Losi 8T 2.0 rtr radio tray and losi 8T 2.0 rtr 12t clutch bell, and 8T 2.0 rtr diff mount. With flextune chases. And it is absloute Monster! AS far as the rear diff the 8T 2.0 RTR diff setup is best. My Buddy has tried to get the TLR rear diff to work for 2 years with no success. He keeps Blowing it out. And after seeing the way I Bash/Race my 8T 2.0. He is going back to the RTR Diff. setup. And 2 shims on each side. I have rebuilt my diffs every month. Since December 2011 and have not changed anything but the oil inside 2OOO is best. I tried 3000 it pushes to hard for me. The front won't turn. :( Keep it simple. READ the Book. And follow it! Some people try to be diffrent and it back fires. Thats what the race Roller book is for. Thats why it comes with the RTR. Its not a RTR book. It's The Race Roller Book. In the Diffs. 7000 Front 10000 Middle 2000 Rear. When you change the diff. Put Black Grease on the gears and seal the gear box on all the seams....
What I state in this post is what I run and has worked for me without issue. I Just wrapped up 1st place for Spt Truggy March-April Sires at Hot Rods Hobbies in So Cal. ( I had no cometition. Literally. ) :D

Believe it or not, a good quality bearing grease really does good on RC diffs ( as far as the ring and pinion goes). I bout a 5lb can 4 years ago and bearly have gone thru a 1/4 of it.

+1 Lucas Heavy Duty Bearing grease $5.25 at home Chepo :p for a grease gun size tube. It will last forever. LOL... the tube may go bad befor you use it all. :D NO more $7.99 for a 30cc tube of Losi Black grease.