Originally Posted by dnebout (Post 8735157)

I'm out of servos to test anything. I have one left in my steering.:eek: What to do. what to do. Buy another servo I guess.

Originally Posted by dhopkins8 (Post 8735169)

+1 on the heat. I had a trinity motor a while back that when the motor came to temp it became really notchy and was creating havoc with servos. Not really sure why but my nova's dont have that issue.

I can only point out the usuals - grind down center diff housing to straighten carb angle, grind down chassis guard to clear the servo, make sure the servo is off the chassis, use the rubber grommets, and make sure there is no flex in the servo tray on either way of operation.

Since then I haven't had any problems in both buggy and truggy using 7955 and even a 985 for almost a year.

Originally Posted by aznitronut (Post 8735231)

Send your servos back to Hitec, most likely they will warranty them and send you new servos, they are pretty good about that.

Originally Posted by Cyberacer (Post 8735171)

DO NOT USE A 7940 for your throttle/brake. The geartrain is too fragile. That is what your failure was, not the setup.

If you want that speed, use the 7954. Trust me, I tried it.

I'm not Cary, it's Marc.

Originally Posted by aznitronut (Post 8735206)

! tooth farther away from the engine, as though you are on throttle.

Originally Posted by dnebout (Post 8735294)

Hey Marc. Thanks for the input. The 7940 failed but so did 3 7955s in the past 4 weeks.

Originally Posted by dnebout (Post 8735325)

Just talked to Hitec. The last servo that I sent in, the problem was "bad IC". The tech told me that "bad IC" happens when the bottom of the servo hits the chassis.

I think that if I case a jump (the chassis is already bowed in the center by just 1/32 and over a year old), it may be flexing enough to hit the bottom of the servo. I cased a jump intentionally last night following a fellow racer because I was coming up on him too fast and didn't want to hit him in the turn after the jump. The servo went out right after.

Maybe it's time for a new chassis? What do you all think?

Originally Posted by dnebout (Post 8735325)

Just talked to Hitec. The last servo that I sent in, the problem was "bad IC". The tech told me that "bad IC" happens when the bottom of the servo hits the chassis.

I think that if I case a jump (the chassis is already bowed in the center by just 1/32 and over a year old), it may be flexing enough to hit the bottom of the servo. I cased a jump intentionally last night following a fellow racer because I was coming up on him too fast and didn't want to hit him in the turn after the jump. The servo went out right after.

Maybe it's time for a new chassis? What do you all think?

Originally Posted by dnebout (Post 8735325)

Just talked to Hitec. The last servo that I sent in, the problem was "bad IC". The tech told me that "bad IC" happens when the bottom of the servo hits the chassis.

I think that if I case a jump (the chassis is already bowed in the center by just 1/32 and over a year old), it may be flexing enough to hit the bottom of the servo. I cased a jump intentionally last night following a fellow racer because I was coming up on him too fast and didn't want to hit him in the turn after the jump. The servo went out right after.

Maybe it's time for a new chassis? What do you all think?

Originally Posted by Cyberacer (Post 8735445)

If you don't want to buy a new one yet, I have one with low runtime on it. You can have it, as I'm not sure that you want to keep running a tweaked chassis. Even if you space the servo up, if you have the bend started, any rough landing will keep bending it.

I'll bring it with me. Should only take 15 min or so to swap out the chassis.

Originally Posted by Cyberacer (Post 8735171)

DO NOT USE A 7940 for your throttle/brake. The geartrain is too fragile. That is what your failure was, not the setup.

If you want that speed, use the 7954. Trust me, I tried it.

I'm not Cary, it's Marc.