Yeah I had it sanded on a previous center diff mount like you. Is that the Dynamite setup?

Dont be afraid to sand the top plate on the stock center mount so you can get a straighter angle.

it is and i like it very much. :nod:

Thanks for doing that for me Inferno. I appreciate it. This now tells me that I may not have a chassis problem.

That may be the difference. My old setup had the center diff mount ground down a bit. I changed it to a new one awhile back but can't remember when. Maybe that's what is different.

If I want to use aluminum front carriers/spindles do I need 10 degree 12 degree or the silver color set up?

Should I use the lrc blocks?

How bout titanium turnbuckles, if I can get them ridiculously cheap r they worth it?

I have the center diff mount should I use it on my buggy or truggy?

Yeah looks like it's impossible to have any brake drag from loops not retracting back all the way.

For 9.99 you cant go wrong. its slick and has no slop like the stock linkage.

this might be a stupid question, but...... useing rubber gromets for the throttle servo to allow alittle absorb for servo, why would you use a stifferer for radio tray? kinda takes the hole purpose away from running rubber gromets doesent it??? again just curious?

Matt, You should Know better then to be Cocking the filter like that, Do it one too many time's and the Neck WILL split at the Worst of times....Been there, Done that.....Wont be tweeking the neck ever again. ;)

ok, so not a good spot for questions...LOL

Here's the plan. Newer used chassis from a fellow Tech member and fellow racer, Dynamite linkage, Savox servo (shorter and I'm out of servos anyway lol), Shave the center diff top (like I used to have it to straighten things out). Swivel ball end to carb a bit.

This plan may not identify what was actually at fault, but should hopefully get me through finals at DRC.

Wish me well!:lol: Thanks fellas for all the pics and the time you spent on looking at my problem. Gotta love RCTech!!! Your all welcome at my campfire.

The grommets aid the servo for a little amounts. Like quick stabs of impact. the stiffener makes the whole tray move less and stiffer on a 1.0.

i have all savox 1268 servos and have had no problems. i had problems with hitec also but to many hitec lovers here to talk bad..:lol:

Sup guys, have any helpful answers on this ^

Thank u.

Not really..I run the bolts pretty tight so their is a small amount of play..the stock tray in my opinion has way to much flex and the the graphite plate helps, as far as the trays go from what I could tell their the same..right down to the material, the 2.0 moved the tray out away from the motor a few millimeters, I guess it's suppose to keep it from binding as much, all I know is with my Mugen 6T I don't worry about servo problems..ever..