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Originally Posted by dnebout
(Post 8696234)
3 back to back servos shot on throttle... 2-7955s and 1-7940. Never had this happen. Some of the faster guys told me that my chassis is flexing and hitting the servo. They told me I should run plastic spacers to lift the servo a bit. I've always run these servos with the brass inserts and the rubber grommets and never used the palstic spacers. I've been running the chassis for about
1 1/2 years and wondering what you all think. |
Originally Posted by losi_racer
(Post 8696281)
have you shaved down the side guards?
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
(Post 8696281)
have you shaved down the side guards?
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So the stock side guard looks like it is notched for the servo to fit properly, however the side of the notched area does ride right up against the side of the servo. Do you guys trim the side guard even more than the stock notch or do you just shim the servo higher?
My concern is that the alignment of the servo throw will no longer be level if I shim it. |
I would go ahead and notch out the chassis guard a bit more, and if you do decide to use the additional plastic shims to raise the servo up more, you'll have to make your linkage level again swiveling the ball end connection at the carb. Just loosin the set screw and adjust to make level again
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Originally Posted by steve307b
(Post 8696481)
I would go ahead and notch out the chassis guard a bit more, and if you do decide to use the additional plastic shims to raise the servo up more, you'll have to make your linkage level again swiveling the ball end connection at the carb. Just loosin the set screw and adjust to make level again
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Originally Posted by dnebout
(Post 8696234)
3 back to back servos shot on throttle... 2-7955s and 1-7940. Never had this happen. Some of the faster guys told me that my chassis is flexing and hitting the servo. They told me I should run plastic spacers to lift the servo a bit. I've always run these servos with the brass inserts and the rubber grommets and never used the palstic spacers. I've been running the chassis for about
1 1/2 years and wondering what you all think. |
7955 will last forever on other cars......? If I blow one, she will be going down the road for sure.
Servo set up shouldn't be that critical. Were not building a watch here. |
Ok guys I'm selling my savage and moving on to the 8ight T. I am a novice racer and am looking for some advice, will the 1.0 be OK to start from (fairly cheap). And besides the servo issue I keep hearing about what else should I look out for? Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Shane Racer
(Post 8697102)
I have seen many people go through the 7955 and the 7940 servos. The 7950 seems to hold up better. They never should have stopped making the 5955. That thing was bullet proof.
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Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 8696319)
thats the problem for sure....i run 1.0 side gaurds:sneaky:....im telling you guys...some things on the 1.0 were dialed:lol:
Originally Posted by dnebout
(Post 8696390)
So the stock side guard looks like it is notched for the servo to fit properly, however the side of the notched area does ride right up against the side of the servo. Do you guys trim the side guard even more than the stock notch or do you just shim the servo higher?
My concern is that the alignment of the servo throw will no longer be level if I shim it. I've been running the Hitec 7940 in my truggy for well over a year now. Hasn't missed a beat. If you set everything up properly the 7940 is an awesome throttle servo.:nod: |
Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
(Post 8698694)
I've been running the Hitec 7940 in my truggy for well over a year now. Hasn't missed a beat. If you set everything up properly the 7940 is an awesome throttle servo.:nod: |
I guess what I don't understand is why did 1 Hitec 7955 last me a year at throttle and all of a sudden 3 go bad back to back. I haven't changed a thing in my setup. Do you think that the chassis (1 1/2 years old) is flexing more now that it has been run so long?:confused:
I'm gonna run a straight edge on it now. Maybe it's tweeked a bit.:weird: |
With a straight edge end to end on the bottom of the chassis, I have a gap the size of a short and curly!:lol: It's about 1/32". I don't think that's too bad out of whack. What do you all think?
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I wouldn't think so but from what I've seen and heard non the less, once the servo frying starts, it's hard to stop.
If nothing else has changed, it would almost point towards the chassis or so one would think. I for one don't think the problem was ever fixed from the 1.0 but just delayed a little with the 2.0. My first 2.0, regardless of love or money, would take a servo out in no time. My current 2.0 has been fine with only 3 races but my butt hole puckers when I'm on the drivers stand. Good luck getting it fixed. |
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