Could be the chassis flexing more, could be a burr on the carb slide that is causing it to bind a bit, could be something binding in the brakes putting stress on the servo. There's a ton of things it could be. My advice would be to go through everything and check it bit by bit. Servos don't just start frying themselves. Something has to have changed...

I've killed 2 servos in over 4 years running losi cars. One throttle one brake. Both were well used. I don't buy into there being a problem to fix. Set everything up properly and you won't have any issues. My opinion...;)

Yeah Jammin, who knows for sure. I ground down the area at the servo and let you all know. Hope it's all good. 3rd servo going to Hitec for repair.

Servo Failure......
 

I have noticed, if the 'side-to-side' position of the servos in the radio tray is slightly incorrect, it is possible for the heatsink part of the servo base to actually touch the releived part of the chassis where it sits (especially under heavy braking conditions). I noticed mine had a 'rubbing' mark on it, and I made sure I moved it slightly towards the motor.

Just remember the heatsink on these high performance digital servos is there to dissipate heat. :nod: If the servo heatsink touches the chassis during running, it will absorb signifigant heat from the chassis/engine, rapidly decreasing the time taken to acheive said failure.......

This is just one more thing to check. If its not touching the chassis or side guard, and epa's are set right, and you're not using 'excessive brake', there is no problem IMHO.

My Losi Truck has run for half a season with not a single servo failure (touch wood :lol:) and have run the 8ight buggy for two years with only one steering servo failure (stripped titanium gears :eek:) Good luck!

I know that analog servos are not the "deal" but they do seem to hold up better to throttle/brake duty..digital servos don't like to be stalled (that's what your doing hitting the brake) digital servos apply more power to the circuit board under a stall load..you end up frying the circuit board..
See Integra..not a "word"..:lol:

Running good digital servos gives more response if you trim your side guard and have your linkage correct and EPA set where your not pulling the hell out of your throttle/ brake pull there isn't any issues. Use the rubber grommets and make sure your not over tightening its helps with vibration / impact.

Analog / digital work just need to make sure everything is setup correctly. Most people go through the tribulations but after spending 100 bucks a pop you learn pretty fast.

I always "thought" the problem that the Losi's had was the angle that the linkage was in and the tray does have flex in it, honestly I've never had throttle servo problems but then again I don't use "brand" servos like most Losi guys use..but..like everyone says.."their is no problem"..you guys need to learn how to set your end points..I guess Losi put out the update on proper servo installation and linkage set ups for no good reason..;)

That's a stretch. When a servo heatsink touches the chassis, I highly doubt that engine/chassis heat is accelerating servo failure. Vibration and shock from jumps are causing way more damage.

Its all in EPA and carb line up.....

Drake has been known to blow a few servos. Wonder if he knows how to set up EPA ?

If the mud/side guard is a problem area, then Horizon/Losi needs to correct that guard. If it's a simple solution, then by all means, get it fixed.

I truly don't believe it's one certain thing that causes a servo to go bad but rather a group of things.

The truck seems to be more questionable than the buggy which points toward more flexing.

I spoke with Josh Alton about this a few years back after he left Horizon and he told me the tray was inferior in design and the tray was never finished when Horizon pulled the plug on the budget. He told me that they used a material on the servo that would wrinkle/break in flexing areas (so they were aware of an issue) He told me that the servo case itself would flex if not using a metal case unit.

Hey I removed my o.s. .28 and dropped in a new o.s. .28 to break-in, I thought I would just drop in the new motor without any adjusting since everything is the same, well I was wrong I had to re-adjust the motor mounts and the rubber boot on the slide carb was rubbing against the top center brace so I had to shave it down. Isn't that kind of odd that the exact same type of motor would not just drop in, is it just me or has anyone ever experienced this?

C,

The meshing should have stayed the same from CB to Spur but the carb needs adjustment since its set by the factory and different once you install to match to linkage

Hope that make sense. The mesh should be the same thou same block.

Made sence to me. :nod:

+1:nod:

There's a hand full of issues that can lead to servo failure. Learn to set everything up properly and you won't have issues. Sure there will still be a failure once in awhile. That happens with any brand. BUT like I said, I've run these cars for years now without any out of the ordinary failure rate. I've run 1.0's and 2.0's with no servo issues what so ever. I never worry about my servos failing when I set my truck on the track. I've learned that you need to make sure the servo isn't rubbing on anything, set your linkage up so that the carb doesn't bind, make sure to allow for some play in the throttle linkage at full throttle, make sure your brakes are setup so that you don't need a ton of travel to go full brake, make sure your throttle arm is parallel to the servo at neutral and you'll be good to go. Basically follow the losi addendum instructions and make sure the servo clears the chassis/side guard. That's my experience in almost 5 years of running losi cars. All of which by the way are things you should do with every brand vehicle. Also I know people love their rubber servo grommets, but I personally hard mount my servos. Been working or me for years.;)

I do use rubber on the throttle servo.