Originally Posted by losi_racer (Post 8036987)

hmmm, still wonder if it was a running change, first the shrink wrap, then board and plug. How long ago did you get the lipos? jw cause i havent seen the red plug in a while at least in lhs

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 8037011)

Just about a year ago give or take a month or two was when I got those 2. It was definitely a running change. I believe sometime around the beginning of this summer is when they made the change and got rid of the boards. That was when I first saw the new ones anyway. I have 3 of the new ones that I bought a few months ago. Like I said, the 2 old ones have been fine, but they definitely have boards in them. I cut one open to check.:nod:

Originally Posted by losi_racer (Post 8037023)

ok gotcha. I say just get a dynamite and be safe lol, its the same as a losi lipo and like 5-10 bucks cheaper

Originally Posted by tc5 man (Post 8026474)

you guys will probetly think this is funny well i got the 2.0 outer rear hinge pins and i had to use the 2.0 rear hubs also well it was getting late and i had to get done my truggy. and i was thinking that on the hub i was assuming that, the 3 hole on the rear hub was the a hole well it was the b hole well i went to race yeterday and kept on wondering why in the hell i cant get my rear to rotate right without useing the brakes lol.


so on the 2.0 rear hub is it ok to use the a hole on the hub with the #4 on the rear shock tower ? i just mounted it in the a hole on the rear hub with the #4 on the tower i just need to adjust the camber again .


or should i run a diffrent postion on the tower holes ?

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 8037033)

But then it doesn't say losi on it.:cry::cry::lol::lol::lol::lol::ha: Yeah I agree, the dynamite packs are identical.:nod:

Originally Posted by Integra (Post 8029180)

yup, ive ran a 45 with a good 8-10 min warm up and took 650mah, this was in Buggy @ the 08 Canadian Winter Nationals.



no mods what so ever, use the flat lid and i put a piece of Dubro 1/2" foam in the lid to fill the extra head room. :nod:

Originally Posted by tc5 man (Post 8037048)

anybody know ?

Originally Posted by hambone (Post 8035871)

How has the proline bulldog body been holding up? I like the look and the price over the stock truggy body.

Originally Posted by pyromania (Post 8037070)

I'm not completely sure what you're asking. The 2.0 rear hubs have the extra hole on the inside, meaning the that stock 1.0 settings would be 4/B.

Originally Posted by tc5 man (Post 8037112)

well with the 1.0 rear hubs i used the 4/A to get the most rotation so with the 2.0 rear hubs i would use the extra hole that is the a hole than i would use the #4 on the camber link on the tower right ?

i hated the stock b hole on the hub with 1.0 .

Originally Posted by losi_racer (Post 8037119)

the best advice i can give you is try it.

Originally Posted by losi_racer (Post 8037119)

the best advice i can give you is try it.

Originally Posted by hambone (Post 8037751)

This question will probably get moved but in my 8t 2.0 i use a 3pk/2.4 fasst
r603fs receiver with fut S9157 for the steering and a BLS451 on throttle and the losi lipo. Will i toast it if i get rid of the regulator? Haven't had any regulator failures but i would like to get rid of the reg and switch. That would clean things up alot as it's a real pain packing all that stuff in the rec compartment. The steering servo has 425oz of torque at 6.0 volt, God knows what that would end up being. Please don't suggest a servo brand change cuz it isn't happening, futaba has been very reliable for me. I guess if the system won't hold up unregulated i'll try the switchless regulator.

Originally Posted by pyromania (Post 8037127)

+1

We're not going to be able to tell you if it would work for you.

But here is a diagram on how the holes are laid out:

(c)(b)(a) : 1.0
(d)(c)(b)(a) : 2.0

So if you want the settings you had before, you would use the b hole on the 2.0 hub.