Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

I personally change stuff at a certain amount of time, typically I redo diffs, shock oils and clutch springs at 1 gallon n every gallon after, then at 2 gallons the clutch shoes and tires get replaced then at 4 gallons all rod ends r replaced then at 6-8 gallons the chassis and the front/rear diff housings r replaced along with everything iv mentioned above so then the car feels pretty good again n I use it another 4-8 gallons before she's about beat n done.

after putting 14 gallons on a truggy it's pretty much gonna have a wornout drivetrain and everythings gonna need to b replaced so it's cheaper to just get another truck in my eyes.

mekios

Was checkin my center diff today and it seems a bit wobbly...
Is that normal or something bad is happening...?

token

How old are the bearings and center diff holders? I change the bearings about every 2 gallons. But a wore down center diff mount could cause alot of issues

mekios

The truggy is 2 months old. Never replaced those bearings and i have run 1+ gallon

token

you should be fine, just install and check drive line

dnebout

iTrader: (32)

Hey fellas. Can we go over this again. I searched and it seemed like there were some arguments as to what was what, in some of the posts. Never really got a straight answer.

There is the 10 degree caster block with 0 degree incline spindle (stock) and 12 degree caster blocks with 0 degree incline spindle. Then there is the 10 degree caster block with inclined spindle and a 12 degree caster block with inclined spindle. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

#1 How many degrees is the spindle inclined?
#2 If the spindle is actually inclined, doesn't this just give you negative camber which can easily be had by turning the camber link in the first place?
#3 Please comment on the Caster blocks. What are the effects on a truggy?
#4 Please comment on the inclined spindle. What are the effects on a truggy?

Thanks!!!

ding_nz

Hi there you guys have been really busy posting and I stopped reading for a couple of weeks.

I have had my truck for about 7 months now and did my first r&p about a month ago, I am now running the alloy inserts and not a problem since, I have been keeping an eye on the mesh since then

The reason that I am posting is that I have just blown my 2nd motor. The first lasted 2 months and this one 5 months. Both of them cracked the inner race of the rear main bearing. I have run the Losi quick change mount since new on this truck and run a loose mesh on the spur/cb.

I was reading about 30 pages back about someone breaking cranks and was wondering if this could be related. Although there are no marks to suggest that the motor has contacted the chassis in any way.

Could the flex in the chassis be loading the motor case in such away as to cause this? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated

I am ordering the KHZ extended mount to eliminate some chassis flex as a precaution

Thanks in advance

Dan

teamlosi906

iTrader: (235)

anyone running the 13 48 gearing in the truggy 2.0 with a 28 i used to run the 1.0 with 14 48 gears and a 28 motor thanks for any help

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Ive never ran the 50.....All i run is the 48.

lowcel

iTrader: (80)

I've decided to try running nitro so I ordered another 8t2 to try it out and see if I like it. With that said, what servo do you all recomend for throttle/brake?

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

#1 The inclined spindles are inclined 5 degrees.
#2 absolutely not the same as running 5 degrees of negative camber. In the inclined spindles, your camber setting will remain the same(say -1 degree), however the kingpins are inclined further. There is no way to get the same effect as the inclined spindles with the stock spindles.
#3 I prefer 10 degrees of caster especially on the truggy. I find the 12 degree blocks remove too much initial turn in on the truggy. On the buggy the 12 degree blocks are very good. They smooth the steering out some, remove a bit of initial turn in and add some mid corner to exit steering.
#4 The inclined spindles make steering more controlled and more consistent. They are especially noticeable on high speed turns and when turning in the bumps. A must have in my opinion.

Hope that helps some.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Can I ask what engines these are? I've never heard of a bearing race actually cracking in my time in this hobby. Not once.

For a .28 you will want that 13/48 or 14/48 gearing. The 13/50 gearing is geared more towards a .21.

Hitec 7955 or 7940. The 7955 really can't be beat as far as performance, reliability and value.

tc5 man

what do you think about 50/14, on a truggy with a .21 thats what im using on a big techinal track.

or a 13 tooth whould be better ? im running 4 alum clutch shoe setup with a 86 pipe.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Whatever works man. If it's a big enough track to warrant the 14t CB and the engine has the bottom end to pull it, you should be good. I pretty much exclusively run 13/50 on my truck. I like the extra bottom end of the 13t CB and my engines don't have any problems with top end down a straight. OS SPEED all the way!!

tc5 man

i gone to be running a rb hobby 9 5 port, with a 4 alum clutch all gold spring setup. with a 86 pipe.

heres the track i race at every other weekend.