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Old 12-14-2009 | 04:16 PM
  #5221  
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Originally Posted by casterdriver
Ok guys got an almost convert here....... coming from the mooo cars I bought a used 8-T 2.0 and 8-B 2.0 to try out for a few weeks......... the buggy is doing fine in all areas but I need some help with the truggy. 1st problem..... How to make a clutch live more than a couple quals? I put all new silver losi HD shoes, new silver springs and all new losi bearings(the brown rubber shielded ones) CB looks great no grooves and the flywheel pins are good. Put it all together 2x this last weekend, Will go about 2 quals b-4 it eats bearings and breaks a sping and locks up. Also the clutch seemed like it didnt have much snap to it, felt like the springs were to soft and bogging the motor, This is the same motor that ran great in my 6T with the mugen clutch set-up on it until I swapped it over to the losi this last week. I have heard you can run a mugen flywheel/CB setup by flipping the motor mounts around backwards is that true??????? 2nd problem....... The clicking diffs landing jumps? it has the aluminum inserts in the rear already...shim the piss out of them till tight/notchy and let them wear in?
Get rid of the silver springs. They're too heavy, cause massive clutch wear and heat up your bell. Try running 2 gold and 2 green springs.

As Scott mentioned get yourself a 10 pack of TKO F/R blue seal clutch bearings. A pair of bearings will easily last about a gallon.
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Old 12-15-2009 | 06:16 AM
  #5222  
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well I cheesed out..... slapped the mugen flywheel/dynamite max lifes and 6 cb back on the motor, flipped the top plates of the KH extended mount around and whaalaaaa fits like it was made for it, even have more space between the crank screw and fuel tank now. I'm gonna get a new rear bulkhead and re-do the diff tonite....... The guys I have been racing with are in trouble if I get this thing de-bugged and reliable......
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Old 12-15-2009 | 02:07 PM
  #5223  
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Originally Posted by casterdriver
well I cheesed out..... slapped the mugen flywheel/dynamite max lifes and 6 cb back on the motor, flipped the top plates of the KH extended mount around and whaalaaaa fits like it was made for it, even have more space between the crank screw and fuel tank now. I'm gonna get a new rear bulkhead and re-do the diff tonite....... The guys I have been racing with are in trouble if I get this thing de-bugged and reliable......
i smell a newb...lstnewb to be exact..lmao
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Old 12-16-2009 | 11:30 PM
  #5224  
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I really like this truck it drives so well it seems that the quicker that you push the better it goes and it really ups the confidence .

I'm just running the stock setup at the moment because I don't need anything more from it at the moment until my ability improves a bit

I have got one thing small thing. I lost the screw out of the end of the crank last weekend at somestage in the final race and the clucth bell came forward and ate a little bit of the tank. No leeks or anthing lucky and I got finished in 2nd.

On my 1.0 buggy I used shoe goo and built up a kinda wear pad on the back of the tank. I'm thinking of doing the same to this tank or glueing a bit of plastic or aluminium to the area for protection.

What I want to know what other people are doing to protect the back of the tank abit.
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Old 12-16-2009 | 11:57 PM
  #5225  
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I have used the losi nomex tape with some success but the tollerance is an issue. A piece of lexan works well too.
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Old 12-17-2009 | 04:43 AM
  #5226  
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casterdriver, I would use the aluminum inserts in that rear bulkhead. I found the m2c shoes work well, medim reg with 4 gold springs.
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Old 12-17-2009 | 08:00 AM
  #5227  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
I have used the losi nomex tape with some success but the tollerance is an issue. A piece of lexan works well too.


Thin piece of alum would do the trick....Or call up Robert over at Matrix Concepts for one of these.

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Old 12-17-2009 | 09:55 AM
  #5228  
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Just for a quick fix i cut a thick piece of lexan and CA glued it to my tank. Seems to be working great.
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Old 12-17-2009 | 12:22 PM
  #5229  
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Stupid question but what hex drivers do i need for the truggy? I thought i needed a 1.5-3.5mm set but i think it is def the wrong set...
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Old 12-17-2009 | 12:30 PM
  #5230  
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.050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, a 1/4" nutdriver for the nuts on the shocks, not sure what size the big nuts are on the towers though......
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Old 12-17-2009 | 02:13 PM
  #5231  
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Originally Posted by ding_nz
I really like this truck it drives so well it seems that the quicker that you push the better it goes and it really ups the confidence .

I'm just running the stock setup at the moment because I don't need anything more from it at the moment until my ability improves a bit

I have got one thing small thing. I lost the screw out of the end of the crank last weekend at somestage in the final race and the clucth bell came forward and ate a little bit of the tank. No leeks or anthing lucky and I got finished in 2nd.

On my 1.0 buggy I used shoe goo and built up a kinda wear pad on the back of the tank. I'm thinking of doing the same to this tank or glueing a bit of plastic or aluminium to the area for protection.

What I want to know what other people are doing to protect the back of the tank abit.
Happens to the best of use pretty common I have a couple of tanks with burnt donut holes great idea thou with making a lexan, or CF plate.
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Old 12-17-2009 | 02:16 PM
  #5232  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
I have used the losi nomex tape with some success but the tollerance is an issue. A piece of lexan works well too.
Frank got some new wraps?? chickenrfarmer??
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Old 12-17-2009 | 02:40 PM
  #5233  
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Originally Posted by Integra
Thin piece of alum would do the trick....Or call up Robert over at Matrix Concepts for one of these.

Link?
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Old 12-17-2009 | 04:06 PM
  #5234  
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Anybody looking for a new truck? I just posted one of mine up for sale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-8t-2-0-a.html
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Old 12-17-2009 | 05:29 PM
  #5235  
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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
Frank got some new wraps?? chickenrfarmer??
Naw those are upgrade!!! Factory Flo

Originally Posted by casterdriver
.050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, a 1/4" nutdriver for the nuts on the shocks, not sure what size the big nuts are on the towers though......
11/32 is the larger size.
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