If your talking orings and radio tray your talking the 1.0 truggy.the new battery box is designed to be held by two screws or two body clips I would post a pic but I'm on my iPhone at work





Btw....regarding droop screws
two weeks ago I had BOTH front screws that are in the chassis that the droop sCrews acTually hit came out of the chassis,no idea how both did this.took some 4-40 screws and forced them into the chassis until I get a new one

i have the eight 1.0 i didnt know that the 2.0 tray uses screws

couldnt though cut the 2 small mounts on the battery tray and stick a screw though there and put a lock nut on the bottom or would that be a pain ,i havnt broke my battery tray box since than though

can u change the screws in the chassis?

I have busted the battery box before too. Now I use screws but I have had that bust out befor too and I had to finish the day with the battery lid taped to the box. I ran it like that for a few races. I think the chassis just flexes too much and he plastic tray can't flex tha much.

Yes no problem....i would recommend using Heat on them before trying to turn them out.....and take a scratch awl and go to town on the driver opening...the droop screw's do beat up on the buggy's real good...truggy not so much...i actually replaced the buggy countersinks with the truggy button head style for durability reasons.

Received my suspension cup added they work great no problem all day and shipped was super fast great product they looks great and they are cheap.

http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=128

Xray diff pinions?
 

Did anything ever come from the Xray diff pinions? I did a search and did not find that they were actually tested. The reason I ask is that my 8T 1.0 electric conversion is realy hard on the rear diff when powering out of corners on clay.

Yep, I've had some pretty good crashes & still no probs. Glad you like them. :)

the only issue with these diffs is when you land on power off a jump. i make sure i dont do this and im still on my original set and i was racing every weekend with my truggy. since mid oct. i started running buggy only till big races come up

From my searches of this forum, back in Aug 09, a few guys were complaining of the rear diff slipping. They were talking about a few fixes. One was to go back to the 1.0 rear gear box and alum inserts, and the other was to try a more robust diff pinion (Xray XT8).

I'm currently using the 1.0 gear box and alum inserts, but my rear diff definitely skips in some situations. It's not landing on jumps but rather a tall bermed corner at the end of the back straight. The rear gets loaded in the corner and I pull a lot of throttle there. You can hear it skip a few times through that turn. Of course part of my problem is I run an electric conversion with a truggy motor and 5S lipo. That's a lot of torque compared to any nitro truggy motor.

Has anyone tried to shim a 1.0 gear box and alum inserts?

If that can't be down I'm thinking of switching to buggy ring gears and pinion diffs. The larger 13T pinion gear has more interface with the ring gear and will wear less in general. I have enough motor pinion flexibility to gear down and still have the same max speed. Unfortunately it's $80 to make that switch.

servo saver...
 

ok, manual call for the servo saver to be backed off 2.5 turns for it's initial adjustment..............just wondering, how are you guys running yours..?? using some blue threadlock..??

Going by feel here. If it seems too loose then I tighten it up its real specific and highly reproducible.

thanks, frank......i like that "it's real specific and highly reproducible".

Well like they say it is what it is. But I do try.