+1 on the KHZ mount. I would also suggest the alum gearbox inserts, lightweight spur gear, lightweight diff outdrives and an alum servo saver top. I like the alum top plate as well but do not change the chassis braces to alum unless you get the fioroni flex rear brace. And thats pretty much it. BTW you will want the rear KHZ hubs. There are several other parts but those are the main ones. Others would be alum diff mount, alum toe plates, +2mm hubs, inclined spindle and spindle carriers, smart diffs (for tuning on dry blown out tracks) lightweight center driveline couplers. The last parts are just in case you want it all but not necessary.

Thanks Casey. The rear hubs and front spindles should be the same as my 8ight-2.0 buggy so I should be in good shape there, same goes for the front gear box.

I'm ordering the front and rear shock shafts as well as front and back arms. Hopefully that will hold me over, I hate to have to bum parts at the track. I have no problem giving/loaning parts away but I like to be as self sufficient as possible.

By the way, thanks again for the spur gear last weekend.

You should also pick up some inner hinge pins. Trust me the hinge pin will break before the arm will. :nod:

Thanks. I have some of those for my eight-e 2.0 and they are the same. I need to do a complete inventory one of these days to see what all I don't have. One thing I do need to pick up sometime is some turn buckles and a center rear cv driveshaft. I have a center front driveshaft from my 8t 1.0 and I ordered some front/rear left/right driveshafts today.

No prob Bruce. I've been running the truck stock since they first came out. The ring and pinion that was going out this weekend was the orginal one. Don't worry about all of the option parts. As I have stated my truck is totally stock.

The truck is a little hard on rear wheel bearings but I usually just replace them every 3 races or so.

Well watching yours lap me time after time it certainly seemed fast enough to me. I only have one "hop up" in mind. :D

As for the bearings do you replace them every three races or every three race days? Either way I need to place an order with avid in the near future. Actually, I think you have a friend or sponsor that also does $1 bearings, if you can remind me who that is I'll support them this time.

I would recommend the KHZ rear hubs or J-DUB modded rear hubs. Trust me, it will solve any and all bearing problems. The stock size bearings not only wear out quickly, but they can also blow out from hits or bad landings and end your race. The hubs aint cheap, but they're well worth it as a reliability upgrade.:nod:

Bruce, I replace them after every 3 race days or if they start to feel gritty. Sometimes they where fast and other times they dont. I use Ready Roller bearings! :nod:

If you have any questions feel free to send me a pm on our website. I answer no less than 50 pm's per week so your not bothering me any.:cool:

How often do you guys replace silicone on your diffs and shocks?

I didn't replace factory fluids on mine, and after a month of running with it (2 races and a training) i was told by local experts that my diffs need new fluids. The truth is i had lots of oversteer at corners during the last race.

It might be over kill but I replace and change all fuilds and bearing every gallon.

Sounds about right to me.

every couple races, or right before a big race

I replace diff fluids after every race. Most I will go is 2 races. I replace shock fluid about every 4-5 races. Although I do top my shocks off after every race day.

Sounds about right to me http://planetsmilies.net/happy-smiley-541.gif

Yup!:nod: