8IGHT 2.0!
04-27-2010, 05:24 AM
#5596
Tech Apprentice
guys, couple of questions !
car kit fuel tank comes with original blue fuel tubing and there's a white one too.
When I should be replacing those tube, when i use the nipple kit, do i have to change the whole fuel line to white one's ? any differences between the white and blue one's
many told me the rear needs a lot of attention due to flex chassis.
what must i do ? what should i check ? how many gallons ? change the bearings ? change the rear bulkhead ?
car kit fuel tank comes with original blue fuel tubing and there's a white one too.
When I should be replacing those tube, when i use the nipple kit, do i have to change the whole fuel line to white one's ? any differences between the white and blue one's
many told me the rear needs a lot of attention due to flex chassis.
what must i do ? what should i check ? how many gallons ? change the bearings ? change the rear bulkhead ?
04-27-2010, 10:24 AM
#5599
Tech Fanatic
I have run them this past weekend at 2 different tracks. The amount of mid-corner stability is amazing.
No more checking up. It drives and rolls all the way around the corners. Another driver also picked a lot of overall speed with them.
His and my race pace and fast laps are faster compared to races before at the same track. 
Additionally we are running the bump steer up. Handles woops and bumps better. Another team driver there did not have the incline hubs/spindles and he had a harder time thru the woops comparably. He is generally a faster driver then I and I had come close to lapping him in a 20 minute main.
No more checking up. It drives and rolls all the way around the corners. Another driver also picked a lot of overall speed with them. His and my race pace and fast laps are faster compared to races before at the same track. Additionally we are running the bump steer up. Handles woops and bumps better. Another team driver there did not have the incline hubs/spindles and he had a harder time thru the woops comparably. He is generally a faster driver then I and I had come close to lapping him in a 20 minute main.
Last edited by slow; 04-27-2010 at 11:06 AM.
04-27-2010, 11:52 AM
#5600
Were you running the 10 degree or the 12 degree carriers? I was running the 12 degree carriers and I feel I lost some initial turn it. 90 degree sweepers and on power turning was improved but on hairpin or 180 degree turns the car didn't come around as fast. When I switched to the new spindle and carrier I kept my toe out at 2 degrees. I ordered the 10 degree carriers so I'll see if that helps. Also it looks like from the setup sheets that the team drivers were using the 10 degree blocks on the EU car.
04-27-2010, 12:09 PM
#5601
Tech Fanatic
All of us are running the 10 degree. That is odd though that you lost turn-in with the 12 degree. Usually more castor has the opposite effect then would have. But, that is what I always felt in TC on-road. Try the 10 degree blocks, they will definatly improve steering and also make sure you run the bump steer up.
Do you think the increased weight of the aluminum spindle/carrier is more a of a factor in increasing on power steering than the 5 degree incline? I would think the Losi guys would be testing a plastic version versus the aluminum version.
04-27-2010, 12:20 PM
#5602
Ya, I wish they would have sold the spindle/carrier set with the 10 degree instead of the 12 degree carrier. But 12 degree makes sense for the fast and flowing Euro tracks. I thought less caster equals less on power and more off power while more caster equals more on power and less off power.
Do you think the increased weight of the aluminum spindle/carrier is more a of a factor in increasing on power steering than the 5 degree incline? I would think the Losi guys would be testing a plastic version versus the aluminum version.
Do you think the increased weight of the aluminum spindle/carrier is more a of a factor in increasing on power steering than the 5 degree incline? I would think the Losi guys would be testing a plastic version versus the aluminum version.
The main thing the incline does is make the center of the corner more predictable(not want to rotate). Before the corner entry and exit may have been ok, but the center was skecthy. Now it is not. The car steers an even arc around the entire corner.
The wieght of the hubs is not the factor in the effects of the hubs, the incline is the complete factor. I have asked them about making a plastic version, depends on demand.
04-27-2010, 12:28 PM
#5603
I have also tried the standard bub/spindle back-to-back with the incline. A definate noticable difference. I couldn't put the incline back on the car fast enough.
04-27-2010, 01:12 PM
#5605
Tech Fanatic
cornerspeed - thanks.
KThatcher - you need to get the spindles too. The stock spindles won't work with the inclined carriers.
KThatcher - you need to get the spindles too. The stock spindles won't work with the inclined carriers.
04-27-2010, 02:02 PM
#5607
04-27-2010, 07:15 PM
#5608
On my 2.0 and I have been having problems with clutch bell issues. I have the King Headz extended motor mount and if I set the mesh like I would normally do with the stock mount, or set it almost as tight as I would for my electrics, it always strips the clutch bell in a weird way. When I inspect my clutch bell before the main I noticed the contact patch of the spur seems to chip off the teeth in a way. Not completely stripped and barely noticeable without looking at it closely, but the clutch bell has about .1mm removed from the clutch bell, and when I move my finger across 1 of the teeth I could feel the different in height. This happens with both the Losi normal bells, Losi HD, and Robinson Racing clutch bells. I have about 6 of them like this.
I was told that since I am running the steel flywheel I have to use the included, larger flywheel collet. I used a new collet that came with the car with the steel flywheel so I was wondering if that would of been the problem. I have the collet on but wanted to know if anybody else had this problem before? It's hard to explain and I dont think anybody could notice a difference if I took a picture of it, but it does make the mesh considerably looser to the point where I wouldnt use the clutch bell. Thanks in advance.
I was told that since I am running the steel flywheel I have to use the included, larger flywheel collet. I used a new collet that came with the car with the steel flywheel so I was wondering if that would of been the problem. I have the collet on but wanted to know if anybody else had this problem before? It's hard to explain and I dont think anybody could notice a difference if I took a picture of it, but it does make the mesh considerably looser to the point where I wouldnt use the clutch bell. Thanks in advance.
04-27-2010, 07:19 PM
#5609
mesh
On my 2.0 and I have been having problems with clutch bell issues. I have the King Headz extended motor mount and if I set the mesh like I would normally do with the stock mount, or set it almost as tight as I would for my electrics, it always strips the clutch bell in a weird way. When I inspect my clutch bell before the main I noticed the contact patch of the spur seems to chip off the teeth in a way. Not completely stripped and barely noticeable without looking at it closely, but the clutch bell has about .1mm removed from the clutch bell, and when I move my finger across 1 of the teeth I could feel the different in height. This happens with both the Losi normal bells, Losi HD, and Robinson Racing clutch bells. I have about 6 of them like this.
I was told that since I am running the steel flywheel I have to use the included, larger flywheel collet. I used a new collet that came with the car with the steel flywheel so I was wondering if that would of been the problem. I have the collet on but wanted to know if anybody else had this problem before? It's hard to explain and I dont think anybody could notice a difference if I took a picture of it, but it does make the mesh considerably looser to the point where I wouldnt use the clutch bell. Thanks in advance.
I was told that since I am running the steel flywheel I have to use the included, larger flywheel collet. I used a new collet that came with the car with the steel flywheel so I was wondering if that would of been the problem. I have the collet on but wanted to know if anybody else had this problem before? It's hard to explain and I dont think anybody could notice a difference if I took a picture of it, but it does make the mesh considerably looser to the point where I wouldnt use the clutch bell. Thanks in advance.
04-27-2010, 07:23 PM
#5610
The spur gear is almost new, not even 2 gallons on it, and the entire car by the way. The spur looks fine and true. Everytime the the gear has full contact to the clutch bell, sometimes I put it on the inside, most in the middle, and some on the outside, same thing. Right now the spur is 1mm in from the outside of the clutch bell. The clutch bell was shimmed properly.