Tamiya TRF801XT
#2206
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
- Carefully mark the center of the hole with a punch (make a small crater)
- Drill a very small hole at the punch mark (the crater should hold the bit centered while drilling)
- Drill slightly larger holes until the through hole size is finished
- Take a countersink drill bit and remove enough material to seat the countersink head
I've used this procedure successfully with a variable speed hand drill - if you take your time and you're careful you can usually get it "dang close"
I created a hole template by placing a piece of masking tape over the battery tray and using a pencil to shade the holes onto the tape, then placed the tape on the bottom side of the chassis so the holes would maintain the correct orientation. I got perfect alignment. Here is an example where I drilled 4 holes in my OFNA Ravager chassis to fit a brushless conversion using a Hyper 10TT battery tray + 4S-3.7A LiPo:
#2207
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I won one of these on eBay last night by placing a last second bid. Got it for 132.50 and that included free shipping. I been wanting a truggy badly and was planning on just buying a basher saber tooth. Plan on getting the monster conversion. Can I run a tacon 4074 2000kv motor and a sc8 120a esc in it for now? Also what pinion should I order for this setup? I plan on getting a xerun 150a esc and tenshock x802lv2 2200kv eventually.
#2208
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I won one of these on eBay last night by placing a last second bid. Got it for 132.50 and that included free shipping. I been wanting a truggy badly and was planning on just buying a basher saber tooth. Plan on getting the monster conversion. Can I run a tacon 4074 2000kv motor and a sc8 120a esc in it for now? Also what pinion should I order for this setup? I plan on getting a xerun 150a esc and tenshock x802lv2 2200kv eventually.
I've run that exact motor in my 801xt, it's plenty powerful, right on par with my Castle 1515/2200kv that's in it now.
The sc8 will be ~OK, but your gearing will be more critical vs a 150a esc. I'd go with a 15t or 16t to start and see how it goes. Motor temp should be fine but watch the esc. This advice is for if you're using "standard" truggy sized/weight tires.
Good luck with it, I love mine!
#2209
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
On The Road Again
I just finished repairing mine after it being out of commission since early spring. I used Xray arms, Koch ST-RR drive axles, and Kyosho ST-RR C-hubs. Everything went together with a very small amount of dremelling and re-adjustmemts but wasn't extremely difficult. D8T mud guards have been installed along with Hitec 7950TH servo. I got help from the same 801XT type thread on ultimaterc. In the process, I also finally figured out my MM2 ESC and can test 6s for a couple speed runs. 4s is plenty for ordinary bashing and is my choice. 6s speed runs are just my curiosity getting the best of me. I really like this truly as it drives amazing to me.
Last edited by TXKawBoi; 11-21-2014 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Change Xray C-hubs to Kyosho ST-RR C-hubs
#2210
I just finished repairing mine after it being out of commission since early spring. I used Xray arms, RC8 drive axles, and Xray C-hubs. Everything went together with a very small amount of dremelling and re-adjustmemts but wasn't extremely difficult. D8T mud guards have been installed along with Hitec 7950TH servo. I got help from the same 801XT type thread on ultimaterc. In the process, I also finally figured out my MM2 ESC and can test 6s for a couple speed runs. 4s is plenty for ordinary bashing and is my choice. 6s speed runs are just my curiosity getting the best of me. I really like this truly as it drives amazing to me.
#2211
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
The Xray Arms are XRA352118 for the right one and XRA352128 for the left one. I made a mistake in my earlier post. I used Kyosho ST-RR C-hubs: KYO31357B. You can use the stock Tamiya steering blocks.
Last edited by TXKawBoi; 11-25-2014 at 03:13 AM. Reason: Correct C-hub part #
#2212
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
I busted the left rear shock jumping ramps into the front yard. The front end mods held up nicely. I ordered some MBX7T rear shocks to try out considering it's no longer total Tamiya. lol Knowing the reputation of Mugen, I'm hoping these shocks will hold up to my bashing. I do hope to track this truggy at some point but I'll just keep piecing it together anytime it breaks. I'm definitely learning how to be a tinkerer and a better RC enthusiast.
Last edited by TXKawBoi; 11-23-2014 at 09:34 PM. Reason: correct shock
#2213
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Here's my e-converted 801xt. Been snoozing on uploading pics.
I've only made it to the track once with it. My setup seems a little soft as far as shock oil goes (running box oils) I didn't have the correct tires for the clay track I was running at so it pushed really bad. I may try out some of the Duratrax tires.
I've only made it to the track once with it. My setup seems a little soft as far as shock oil goes (running box oils) I didn't have the correct tires for the clay track I was running at so it pushed really bad. I may try out some of the Duratrax tires.
#2214
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
That's a BEE YOU TEE FULL truggy Gene! Mine has battle wounds and scars. So much for "chix digging scars" because it's no longer "pretty". I'll have to clean it up and put some "real" wheels on it because I bash with cheapos from Hobby Partz. Once I get the Mugen shox installed and change to new shoes, I'll take some pix and upload them. I'm going to have to hit a track soon too! I keep breaking it while bashing. It would be a rush to see how it performs in its designed element; the track!
I've also decided to add an 801X to the stable. I'm planning to mod it from the start just for my own peace of mind. XB8e arms, ST-RR drive axles & C-hubs, MBX7 Eco rx & servo box as well as the battery & ESC tray will complete the e-conversion and beef up known weak points. This will be my official race buggy as my RC8.2e FT will be my practice and basher buggy. I really need to start painting bodies. All of my RCs drive around naked! I may wind up getting a ticket for public indecency. lol I've got a HobbyWing Xerun SCT Pro combo for it and another Hitec HS-7950TH servo which seems to be an awesome servo in my 801XT.
I've also decided to add an 801X to the stable. I'm planning to mod it from the start just for my own peace of mind. XB8e arms, ST-RR drive axles & C-hubs, MBX7 Eco rx & servo box as well as the battery & ESC tray will complete the e-conversion and beef up known weak points. This will be my official race buggy as my RC8.2e FT will be my practice and basher buggy. I really need to start painting bodies. All of my RCs drive around naked! I may wind up getting a ticket for public indecency. lol I've got a HobbyWing Xerun SCT Pro combo for it and another Hitec HS-7950TH servo which seems to be an awesome servo in my 801XT.
Last edited by TXKawBoi; 11-26-2014 at 03:05 AM. Reason: Add info and grammar
#2215
Does the 801xt and 801x use the same C-hubs?
#2216
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Last edited by TXKawBoi; 11-25-2014 at 04:08 AM.
#2217
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Can someone tell me a good servo that's around 50-60 bucks I can buy for my 801xt. Just got it today in the mail. This thing is going to add up quick! Didnt realize I have to order wheels and tires too. Then comes the monster conversion kit. Know it will be worth it once its completed!
#2218
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Budget Servo
For a budget servo, I'd get a Solar D772 from hobbypartz.com. My sons are using them in their respective RCs with great success. My youngest actually lost control of his due to an ESC malfunction and it took a swim in Galveston Bay! The rx died along with the ESC but that servo came out swinging! The only reason I'm using different servos is to give'em a try. I tend to be loyal to a fault so I'm trying to venture out of my comfort zone. D772 is a winner in my book at $23.00! I got mine at $17.00 last winter. That's just my 1/2 cent.
Last edited by TXKawBoi; 11-26-2014 at 02:59 AM. Reason: Grammar