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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-26-2012, 01:06 PM
  #8896  
J33
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That is where I put my switch when I was using the WC front battery and didn't like it exposed. Mounted a mod battery tray in front but there's no more room for the ko switch though. Didn't know I could put the transponder inside the receiver tray, did u have any problems with the PT inside? Thanks


Originally Posted by Mo Denton
here is how I have mine

I use the transponder mount and have the transponder with the reciever in the box
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:33 PM
  #8897  
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Heres how I did mine. Lid opens no problem, and transponder is held on with Novak's double sided 'gel' tape stuff. Been setup this way for about 4 months now without issue.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:33 PM
  #8898  
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Originally Posted by J33
That is where I put my switch when I was using the WC front battery and didn't like it exposed. Mounted a mod battery tray in front but there's no more room for the ko switch though. Didn't know I could put the transponder inside the receiver tray, did u have any problems with the PT inside? Thanks
No problems with it inside. With any car for that matter. I shortened the wires to about 2" just to keep it in the box and not have a mess. Have raced on about 50 different tracks with it in the box and always all good
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:44 PM
  #8899  
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Originally Posted by Mo Denton
here is how I have mine

I use the transponder mount and have the transponder with the reciever in the box
What sort of drive shafts are those?
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:49 PM
  #8900  
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Originally Posted by ratjayfala
What sort of drive shafts are those?
We'll (hopefully) soon find out for sure, but I think those are the Fioroni lightweight driveshafts. Apparently they're so lightweight (and hence weak, lacking stiffness/strength) that even Fioroni themselves don't recommend running them for long main event races, only qualifiers.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:07 PM
  #8901  
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Originally Posted by ratjayfala
What sort of drive shafts are those?
pretty sure they are the fioroni litedrives
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:08 PM
  #8902  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
We'll (hopefully) soon find out for sure, but I think those are the Fioroni lightweight driveshafts. Apparently they're so lightweight (and hence weak, lacking stiffness/strength) that even Fioroni themselves don't recommend running them for long main event races, only qualifiers.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:11 PM
  #8903  
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Hey aaron, I know you are using OS speed. Are you using their tune pipe too? If you do, mind sharing how you line the exhaust line without touching the tune pipe? If you look at mine, I thought I've line them quite well but realize when I put the body on, the line will touch the pipe, which is not a good idea.

Originally Posted by aaron125
We'll (hopefully) soon find out for sure, but I think those are the Fioroni lightweight driveshafts. Apparently they're so lightweight (and hence weak, lacking stiffness/strength) that even Fioroni themselves don't recommend running them for long main event races, only qualifiers.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:48 PM
  #8904  
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Yep, I'm running an OS 2090 pipe with the Speed 19 but I don't think it really matters too much if the pressure line is touching the pipe just a little. As long as it isn't being pushed into the pipe with a decent force, making the line stay in contact with the pipe constantly and for quite a few cm's, I don't see it as being too much of a problem. Especially as you also have the exhaust pressure/cooler on your pressure line too, that will obviously add some extra cooling, just in case the line does makes a slight contact with the pipe. In the past, I've used some CA glue to attach some fuel line clips to the fuel tank to keep the fuel and pressure lines away form the pipe, making 100% sure they won't touch but don't bother with that anymore. Still have an rarely used, old, spare TKI tank with the clips glued to the side though.

The silicon fuel tubing we use for RC is suppposed to be somewhat heat resistant and remember, gases take heaps longer to warm up and raise the temperature than do either solids or liquids. And it is only the pressure line which is carrying hot exhaust gasses in any case, so if the tubing makes contact just a little bit, for those reasons explained, I don't see it as being all that much of an issue or causing any problems.

Main thing to remember though: gases heat up WAY less/need a lot more energy to raise their temps than liquid or solids. Think of it this way - if you're in a huge cathedral or massive hall with no walls and extremely high ceilings, it's a very cold winter day, turn on a small heater at the very opposite end of the hall/cathedral and wait and see how long it takes until you feel the warmth from the heater; that's if you even do get to feel the warm air.

Hope that helps mate.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:41 AM
  #8905  
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Thanks mate. People keep on telling me I should not do that as it will not be good. My thought is like you that it should be ok. I guess I will ignore their advice lol

Originally Posted by aaron125
Yep, I'm running an OS 2090 pipe with the Speed 19 but I don't think it really matters too much if the pressure line is touching the pipe just a little. As long as it isn't being pushed into the pipe with a decent force, making the line stay in contact with the pipe constantly and for quite a few cm's, I don't see it as being too much of a problem. Especially as you also have the exhaust pressure/cooler on your pressure line too, that will obviously add some extra cooling, just in case the line does makes a slight contact with the pipe. In the past, I've used some CA glue to attach some fuel line clips to the fuel tank to keep the fuel and pressure lines away form the pipe, making 100% sure they won't touch but don't bother with that anymore. Still have an rarely used, old, spare TKI tank with the clips glued to the side though.

The silicon fuel tubing we use for RC is suppposed to be somewhat heat resistant and remember, gases take heaps longer to warm up and raise the temperature than do either solids or liquids. And it is only the pressure line which is carrying hot exhaust gasses in any case, so if the tubing makes contact just a little bit, for those reasons explained, I don't see it as being all that much of an issue or causing any problems.

Main thing to remember though: gases heat up WAY less/need a lot more energy to raise their temps than liquid or solids. Think of it this way - if you're in a huge cathedral or massive hall with no walls and extremely high ceilings, it's a very cold winter day, turn on a small heater at the very opposite end of the hall/cathedral and wait and see how long it takes until you feel the warmth from the heater; that's if you even do get to feel the warm air.

Hope that helps mate.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:08 AM
  #8906  
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Originally Posted by ratjayfala
What sort of drive shafts are those?
Yes they are the fioronis. Very lightweight, perfect for indoor high bite. They have survived 3 30 minute A mains and one 45minute. On the same high grip tracks i twisted and snapped the stock unis and CVDs (91 and 93)
The fioronis may accelerate a bit hard for outdoor loose and loamy tracks but i have the 777s for outdoor.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:26 AM
  #8907  
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hi guys i have just recieved my tk2 just a few questerns ive been told that to swap my rear drive shafts for my front ones but on inspection both are the same 91 mm ?

is this normal
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:40 AM
  #8908  
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I've never heard of that before actually, about swapping the rear to front. Both are 91mm so no logic to that. But I was advised to change from the 91mm to 93mm for both front and rear which I did and it seems more secure comparing to the 91mm one.

Originally Posted by psr
hi guys i have just recieved my tk2 just a few questerns ive been told that to swap my rear drive shafts for my front ones but on inspection both are the same 91 mm ?

is this normal
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:41 AM
  #8909  
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Psr,

it is competely normal. all shaft are 91 mm long but you might want to buy the optional 93 mm universal shafts and put them in the front. This will save you a lot of pain.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:51 AM
  #8910  
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93mm on the front alone or 93 on the front and rear? I did for both.

Originally Posted by c2k
Psr,

it is competely normal. all shaft are 91 mm long but you might want to buy the optional 93 mm universal shafts and put them in the front. This will save you a lot of pain.
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