skye b.

iTrader: (13)

1/2 inch drill bit is what I was told and also used. No issues since.

drstrangelove

iTrader: (1)

Thanks mate for showing the picture. I could have just google for it, what am I thinking! Time to dig for a 1/2 inch drill and tear apart my buggy again

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

yep, that's the hole, we actually use a Unibit to drill it:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...5X-_-202956926

GSM Storm, just check your clutch bell. If there's a mark on it where it looks like bare metal, it's definitely contacted the chassis. Even if it hasn't, adding the hole is cheap insurance to prevent any mysterious ghost flameouts. In regards to the tune, I was just playing around with you a bit. But I do sometimes use the amount of dirt collected on the side of my car (depending on track conditions of course) as somewhat of a gauge on how rich or lean my motor is running. I mainly just tune by feel and sound though.

Aaron, I hear you on your frustration, but to do a manual overhaul is a pretty expensive venture, especially considering that Kyosho probably has a stack of these manuals already printed up and don't want to simply toss them in the trash. It's really tough for any company to continuously update a manual with new part numbers, etc every time a new part comes out. That's why we have these forums! The chassis situation is really the same as the shock bodies - you can't buy the kit version shock bodies as spares, just like you can't buy the kit version TKI2 chassis or shock towers as spares either (unless you buy from kit breakers on ebay). The spares have a different anodizing coating, but are the exact same parts otherwise. They're just listing both chassis as spare parts in the manual, sort of like you can buy one of these, or one of those, but both will work.

I would actually like to see them forego a paper manual for an electronic version that we can download, and they can update more easily when the need arises. It would probably cost a lot less as well, and be more convenient for us racers too. Maybe toss in a few vids of some certain build tips to provide a more interactive touch to assembling these if it's your first time with the MP9.

Just remember with the 10 hole rear shock tower, that the lowest hole is lower than the lowest hole on the 8 hole tower, so to run the standard setup we run, you want to be in the inner hole, one up from the bottom. Otherwise it's the exact same tower.

drstrangelove

iTrader: (1)

You guys are great man! I've learned so much from you guys and definitely will make my ride better. Thanks guys! Now I have to consider to dismantle them again or go for a few round with it first and see if I need to drill the hole.

jay m

iTrader: (16)

hey guys can some one tell me what differance il see with rear hub height where the arm pin mounts to it 2 holes upper and lower im thinking roll centres will change any help would be great cheers p.s tki1

GSM Storm

iTrader: (114)

All normal there Gary, that was one of the changes brought in with the WC and kept on the post-WC TKI2. I attached an editable PDF here a few days ago which has the 10holes in the setup sheet.

With your clutch bell, are you saying it is nowhere near the chassis when you look at it or that you have removed the engine after driving and there are no marks there? It is quite far away when the car is not moving but makes contact during use.[/QUOTE]

No marks on the chassis or the clutch bell after running it.
Here is the link to a video of our practice run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs9Qw...1&feature=plcp

Regards
Gary

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

I wasn't even implying they should go that far, as to redesign the current manual, but to seriously update it for the next car they release. I reckon your idea of a downloadable electronic manual is the bomb. That way it would be so easy and quick for them to update as parts are released, if there are any additions/corrections, etc. Could have links to vids and stuff like you said, would cost them heaps less, as no more printing costs, less for shipping when you consider how much 100 or 1000 manuals would weigh when they send the kits out from the factory minus a manul in each box. At the very least, it would just be nice to see all the ambiguities removed and when they want to tell us something, actually let us know, not the kind of 'tips' or pointers they put in the manuals currently.

We can always drean, can't we?

Gary: nice vid there man. Glad you didn'd do what 90% of videographers do when shooting RC vids/races and zoom right up onto the car for the vast majority of the vid/race, instead of having a much wider angle, zoomed out view as you did. It makes it so much easier to actually see what lines the driver is using and what the car is doing. When zoomed in, it's impossible to know a anything about where the car is on the track as you can't see it in the context of it's location.

Just one last thing... that music? Really? I know everyone has different tastes and obviously people will never always agree on what's best but I have never understood what the problem is with being able to hear the car and engine? I'd much rather no music at all or just a low volume, background something, rather than the music being up front and so loud it covers up the sound of the engine. After all, it is an RC vid, not a music clip/motocross vid. Even the MX'ers have slowly gone back to having the engine able to be heard rather than all the heavy metal shredding they had for SO many years. Let's hear the engine next time please, at least just a little perhaps?

But really nice work buddy, keep it up.

Joey98

iTrader: (6)

Hi guys I feel like trying out some carbon fiber shock towers on my mp9 tki2 and was wondering who makes them and how it will it affect the car? Thanks!!!

CoryD

iTrader: (2)

No one makes the right rear tower; at least not that I know of. They are all the "old" TKI1 tower which is taller than the TKI2 tower; at least all the ones I've seen are like this. My car usually goes through tech with 5g to spare so if you're looking to save some weight, rust put the aluminum suspension balls on and some Titanium.

Later,

GSM Storm

iTrader: (114)

You can blame the driver for the music, he put the video up, I wanted the engine sound

Regards
Gary

drstrangelove

iTrader: (1)

Nice video and yah, the music.... but I guess it's his video as long he like it we will bare with it.

Gary, you are saying that you have checked and there are no issue with the clutch bell and the chassis. Can I know what spur gear size you running and the clutch bell size?

Also, I think it might be due to the relax driving (just my thought) based on the video but I think if your son start doing more aggressive driving and jumping, he might have that issue.?

GSM Storm

iTrader: (114)

Using the standard spur and clutch bell that came with the kit, the jumps on that track are not too hard on landing, but yea you mite be right.

Regards
Gary

mizzle

iTrader: (9)

Ok my new car is done 93 mm up front what else should I do to make this thing bullet proof and what's the best way to run the fuel lines I see some guys go up and around front body post is that for run time ?

p@p@nut

iTrader: (1)

A little help here. I got a brand new nova plus 21-4T. The thing is, the engine comes with its own tapered collet. Should i use the nova one or remove it and use the one provided with the kit (IFW143*473) plus the shim?

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

You should always use the collet that is going to match perfectly with the flywheel which will be used, which means take off the Nova collet and replace with the Kyosho parts.