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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 05-13-2009, 09:09 AM
  #1891  
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I'm sure most use the AL rear block. The bushings are what we look at. I haven't checked to see if they changed those (yellow)
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyMoore
Got my MP9 kit most of the way built, just waiting on an Alpha ABI motor now. One thing I did find interesting was the inclusion of the revised bulkhead and yellow bushings. Nice to see Kyosho updating the kits!

Sorry, what i meant to ask was this..


your kit came with yellow bushings and upgraded bulkhead.. but did it come with the new aluminum toe block?
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:02 PM
  #1893  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
just wondering.. did you get an updated rear toe block also?
Not in the kit, I made sure to order them seperately. Im not sure if they are really must haves, but they seemed to be to me.
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:40 PM
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Hey guys, just a general question here,

has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!

not trying to start issues just a general questions


tim
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:54 PM
  #1895  
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Default I used to have screw stripping probs too...

Originally Posted by tenpins77
Hey guys, just a general question here,

has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!

not trying to start issues just a general questions


tim
Hiya Tim,

I used to strip the screws out of my touring car and buggies a LOT! (touring cars have a lot of metal to metal parts), it got worse after i started using alu and ti screw kits (mostly for touring). I eventually got tired of having to drill out my screws so i asked my LHS about it.

They said that my tools are blunt. true enough, I changed out all the tool bits from my Hudy tools(i use a taiwanese brand) and never had the problem ever again. I find the Hudy tool bits to be really tough, but not HARD. so after some time, they go blunt. they also seem to be coated with something, and that makes the tool bits a little 'round' to start with. when i compare some new hudy tool bits with mine, I find my taiwanese tool bits fit tighter in a screw then the hudy ones do.

I'm currently building up a new tool set from Kanai tools, they are TIN coated steel, very nice and tight!

for absolute, no nonsense, no stripping screws, i'd suggest you just change out all the screws to TORX screws.

Oh, it also could be that you're torqueing your screws down wayyyy to hard.
My usual rule is, screw it down with your hand lightly grasping the tool handle. once the tool slips in your hand, that's enuff.
I also do not use locktite on any part of the car, but that's cos i do regular maintenance, so loose screws is never a prob.

hope this helps!

Shalom and God Bless!

-alexander
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:06 PM
  #1896  
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Originally Posted by tenpins77
Hey guys, just a general question here,

has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!

not trying to start issues just a general questions

tim
Ive not really had any issues, Kyosho hardware really seems to be high quality. Which screws are you having trouble with?
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:43 PM
  #1897  
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Originally Posted by foampervert
Hiya Tim,

I used to strip the screws out of my touring car and buggies a LOT! (touring cars have a lot of metal to metal parts), it got worse after i started using alu and ti screw kits (mostly for touring). I eventually got tired of having to drill out my screws so i asked my LHS about it.

They said that my tools are blunt. true enough, I changed out all the tool bits from my Hudy tools(i use a taiwanese brand) and never had the problem ever again. I find the Hudy tool bits to be really tough, but not HARD. so after some time, they go blunt. they also seem to be coated with something, and that makes the tool bits a little 'round' to start with. when i compare some new hudy tool bits with mine, I find my taiwanese tool bits fit tighter in a screw then the hudy ones do.

I'm currently building up a new tool set from Kanai tools, they are TIN coated steel, very nice and tight!

for absolute, no nonsense, no stripping screws, i'd suggest you just change out all the screws to TORX screws.

Oh, it also could be that you're torqueing your screws down wayyyy to hard.
My usual rule is, screw it down with your hand lightly grasping the tool handle. once the tool slips in your hand, that's enuff.
I also do not use locktite on any part of the car, but that's cos i do regular maintenance, so loose screws is never a prob.

hope this helps!

Shalom and God Bless!

-alexander
yeah ive got a set of hex drivers i got from china too...theyre amazingly high quality...tolerance is impressive to say the least [better than my hudy tools]

I'd love to run torx screws in my cars, we run alot of torx hardware on our 1:1 racecars...is there anyone that has a kit for them? or maybe a supplier that has tiny r/c sizes?
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:35 AM
  #1898  
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Hi all,
I've never liked the look of the MP9 battery/receiver box as it reminds me of a cheap RTR kit so I have done something about it.

I got a sheet of Carbon fibre graphite and made a new lid for the top of it, you have to change from hump packs to an inline receiver battery and also cut out the divider between the 2 compartments and attach some body mounts. I also have foam tape around the edge to ensure it is sealed well. It may sound like a lot of work for no real gain but looks are important right

Here is a photo of my handywork

Regards...........Dave
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:31 AM
  #1899  
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I installed the Angled holed pistons in my shocks last night.

I went from using 1.2X8 w/40wt in the front and 1.3x8 w/35wt in the rear to the same set up but just with the angled holes. Does anyone know if this is a good starting point? Do they make so much of a difference that I need to dramatically change the shock oil? I'd like some feedback from anyone who has done any significant testing on them.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:02 AM
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IMO, it may be a bit too stiff. You may notice the car rides rough over little bumps and ruts that normally the car would glide over.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:19 AM
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Agree with ezveedub,

i changed the pistons in my car at the rear to the angled ones and kept the same oil

the thing was like a kangaroo still driveable but no way near as good as it was ill be dropping the weight in the oil for the next race
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:34 AM
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i dont know the conversion of WT to CPS, so.. i cant really tell you for certain.. but i know the new pistons give alot more pack, than the old style. And you prolly really should try droppin your oil some.. maybe just 5wt. me personally.. i got 1.3 in front, and 1.4 in rear.. with 400 all the way around.. i have not had time to test really..
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:17 AM
  #1903  
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link to cps chart http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:17 AM
  #1904  
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Crocket, the pic doesnt work, could you try it again?


Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
i dont know the conversion of WT to CPS, so.. i cant really tell you for certain.. but i know the new pistons give alot more pack, than the old style. And you prolly really should try droppin your oil some.. maybe just 5wt. me personally.. i got 1.3 in front, and 1.4 in rear.. with 400 all the way around.. i have not had time to test really..
Here is a little information on the conversion, its not 100% for every brand, but its better than nothing.

http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:53 AM
  #1905  
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hi is anyone running the kingheads upper arms i am going to get a set but how long on average do the derlin bushes last as i want to know how may spares to buy when i order them ??
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