Inferno MP9 thread
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#1894
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
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Hey guys, just a general question here,
has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!
not trying to start issues just a general questions![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
tim
has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!
not trying to start issues just a general questions
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
tim
#1895
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys, just a general question here,
has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!
not trying to start issues just a general questions![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
tim
has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!
not trying to start issues just a general questions
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
tim
I used to strip the screws out of my touring car and buggies a LOT! (touring cars have a lot of metal to metal parts), it got worse after i started using alu and ti screw kits (mostly for touring). I eventually got tired of having to drill out my screws so i asked my LHS about it.
They said that my tools are blunt. true enough, I changed out all the tool bits from my Hudy tools(i use a taiwanese brand) and never had the problem ever again. I find the Hudy tool bits to be really tough, but not HARD. so after some time, they go blunt. they also seem to be coated with something, and that makes the tool bits a little 'round' to start with. when i compare some new hudy tool bits with mine, I find my taiwanese tool bits fit tighter in a screw then the hudy ones do.
I'm currently building up a new tool set from Kanai tools, they are TIN coated steel, very nice and tight!
for absolute, no nonsense, no stripping screws, i'd suggest you just change out all the screws to TORX screws.
Oh, it also could be that you're torqueing your screws down wayyyy to hard.
My usual rule is, screw it down with your hand lightly grasping the tool handle. once the tool slips in your hand, that's enuff.
I also do not use locktite on any part of the car, but that's cos i do regular maintenance, so loose screws is never a prob.
hope this helps!
Shalom and God Bless!
-alexander
#1896
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys, just a general question here,
has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!
not trying to start issues just a general questions![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
tim
has anyone had any problems with the screws that come in the kit as far as stripping out easily? Not sure if it was something that was only a problem with first gen kits or not, ive put two kits together so far and i seem to keep running into issues with the screws, im also using hudy tools!
not trying to start issues just a general questions
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
tim
#1897
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hiya Tim,
I used to strip the screws out of my touring car and buggies a LOT! (touring cars have a lot of metal to metal parts), it got worse after i started using alu and ti screw kits (mostly for touring). I eventually got tired of having to drill out my screws so i asked my LHS about it.
They said that my tools are blunt. true enough, I changed out all the tool bits from my Hudy tools(i use a taiwanese brand) and never had the problem ever again. I find the Hudy tool bits to be really tough, but not HARD. so after some time, they go blunt. they also seem to be coated with something, and that makes the tool bits a little 'round' to start with. when i compare some new hudy tool bits with mine, I find my taiwanese tool bits fit tighter in a screw then the hudy ones do.
I'm currently building up a new tool set from Kanai tools, they are TIN coated steel, very nice and tight!
for absolute, no nonsense, no stripping screws, i'd suggest you just change out all the screws to TORX screws.
Oh, it also could be that you're torqueing your screws down wayyyy to hard.
My usual rule is, screw it down with your hand lightly grasping the tool handle. once the tool slips in your hand, that's enuff.
I also do not use locktite on any part of the car, but that's cos i do regular maintenance, so loose screws is never a prob.
hope this helps!
Shalom and God Bless!
-alexander
I used to strip the screws out of my touring car and buggies a LOT! (touring cars have a lot of metal to metal parts), it got worse after i started using alu and ti screw kits (mostly for touring). I eventually got tired of having to drill out my screws so i asked my LHS about it.
They said that my tools are blunt. true enough, I changed out all the tool bits from my Hudy tools(i use a taiwanese brand) and never had the problem ever again. I find the Hudy tool bits to be really tough, but not HARD. so after some time, they go blunt. they also seem to be coated with something, and that makes the tool bits a little 'round' to start with. when i compare some new hudy tool bits with mine, I find my taiwanese tool bits fit tighter in a screw then the hudy ones do.
I'm currently building up a new tool set from Kanai tools, they are TIN coated steel, very nice and tight!
for absolute, no nonsense, no stripping screws, i'd suggest you just change out all the screws to TORX screws.
Oh, it also could be that you're torqueing your screws down wayyyy to hard.
My usual rule is, screw it down with your hand lightly grasping the tool handle. once the tool slips in your hand, that's enuff.
I also do not use locktite on any part of the car, but that's cos i do regular maintenance, so loose screws is never a prob.
hope this helps!
Shalom and God Bless!
-alexander
I'd love to run torx screws in my cars, we run alot of torx hardware on our 1:1 racecars...is there anyone that has a kit for them? or maybe a supplier that has tiny r/c sizes?
#1898
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi all,
I've never liked the look of the MP9 battery/receiver box as it reminds me of a cheap RTR kit so I have done something about it.
I got a sheet of Carbon fibre graphite and made a new lid for the top of it, you have to change from hump packs to an inline receiver battery and also cut out the divider between the 2 compartments and attach some body mounts. I also have foam tape around the edge to ensure it is sealed well. It may sound like a lot of work for no real gain but looks are important right
![Ha!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/ha.gif)
Here is a photo of my handywork
![](http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb7/CrocketNz/Best.jpg)
Regards...........Dave
I've never liked the look of the MP9 battery/receiver box as it reminds me of a cheap RTR kit so I have done something about it.
I got a sheet of Carbon fibre graphite and made a new lid for the top of it, you have to change from hump packs to an inline receiver battery and also cut out the divider between the 2 compartments and attach some body mounts. I also have foam tape around the edge to ensure it is sealed well. It may sound like a lot of work for no real gain but looks are important right
![Rotating Tire](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tire.gif)
![sneaky](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/sneaky.gif)
![Ha!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/ha.gif)
Here is a photo of my handywork
![](http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb7/CrocketNz/Best.jpg)
Regards...........Dave
#1899
Tech Rookie
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I installed the Angled holed pistons in my shocks last night.
I went from using 1.2X8 w/40wt in the front and 1.3x8 w/35wt in the rear to the same set up but just with the angled holes. Does anyone know if this is a good starting point? Do they make so much of a difference that I need to dramatically change the shock oil? I'd like some feedback from anyone who has done any significant testing on them.
I went from using 1.2X8 w/40wt in the front and 1.3x8 w/35wt in the rear to the same set up but just with the angled holes. Does anyone know if this is a good starting point? Do they make so much of a difference that I need to dramatically change the shock oil? I'd like some feedback from anyone who has done any significant testing on them.
#1901
Registered User
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Agree with ezveedub,
i changed the pistons in my car at the rear to the angled ones and kept the same oil
the thing was like a kangaroo still driveable but no way near as good as it was ill be dropping the weight in the oil for the next race
i changed the pistons in my car at the rear to the angled ones and kept the same oil
the thing was like a kangaroo still driveable but no way near as good as it was ill be dropping the weight in the oil for the next race
#1902
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i dont know the conversion of WT to CPS, so.. i cant really tell you for certain.. but i know the new pistons give alot more pack, than the old style. And you prolly really should try droppin your oil some.. maybe just 5wt. me personally.. i got 1.3 in front, and 1.4 in rear.. with 400 all the way around.. i have not had time to test really..
#1903
#1904
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Crocket, the pic doesnt work, could you try it again?
Here is a little information on the conversion, its not 100% for every brand, but its better than nothing.
http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php
i dont know the conversion of WT to CPS, so.. i cant really tell you for certain.. but i know the new pistons give alot more pack, than the old style. And you prolly really should try droppin your oil some.. maybe just 5wt. me personally.. i got 1.3 in front, and 1.4 in rear.. with 400 all the way around.. i have not had time to test really..
http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php
#1905
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hi is anyone running the kingheads upper arms i am going to get a set but how long on average do the derlin bushes last as i want to know how may spares to buy when i order them ??