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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 05-18-2009, 06:57 PM
  #1921  
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Thanks Dave
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:58 PM
  #1922  
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Default MP9 TKI...

I have a mp9 TKI and am enjoying it tremendously,

I must say, the new MP9SE would prolly allow more people to enjoy the buggy but i think SE owners are gonna lose out on the lightweight parts. It really makes the buggy come alive... I'm running my engine rich but my MP9 can out accelerate any other buggy on the straights (I use a picco p3r, vs the typical os v-spec drivers)

I am quite keen on the lowered shock towers and M sized shocks though, Our track in Singapore doesn't typically include big jumps so the long droop of the original shocks are kinda redundant.

And the hard anodising on the chassis and towers really do make em a lot tougher.

I just have a couple of Kyosho gripes, I wish Kyosho makes the drive axle drive pins available for replacement... rather then have to change the whole axle when the drive pins are worn. They dunt seem to fit 3mm pins.

Neither do I understand the need for a large sized centre diff case? Huh? why not reuse the diff case from the front and rear (it'll be lighter, for one, and less parts to worry bout)

All in all, very pleased with the MP9, am now looking forward to a MP9 based truggy...

-alexander
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:16 AM
  #1923  
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Originally Posted by Crocket
Hi Scott It is made by OFNA. amain sell them
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3828

I have always run one to keep the air filter away from the throttle and brake linkages but on the MP9 it has the added benefit of stopping the air filter rubbing the paint off the top of the body.
There still isnt that much space between the engine heat sink and the side of the body.
Cheers............Dave
Originally Posted by shinnbad12
HEY Crocket, what rubber air filter in let is that??? Does it keep the filter from getting smashed by the body??

Thanks Scott

The only problem I had with that inlet is that it is pretty soft rubber and I had found mine at least on my truggy to be wound up a little bit which could have caused some air intake loss but I am sure it would depend on your kit and setup. Mine was on a CRT!
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:57 AM
  #1924  
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Originally Posted by team2zon
Try the kyosho website

thanks, but i m italian, i dont know the track named in the setups... do yu havew someubfis abiut high grip track??

thamls all
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:30 AM
  #1925  
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Originally Posted by amonmp9
thanks, but i m italian, i dont know the track named in the setups... do yu havew someubfis abiut high grip track??

thamls all
On the kyosho site, use the Tebo set up and move the rear camber link on the shock tower up to the 7 hole. If you have traction roll still, take out 1 mm of droop front and rear.
Hope this helps

Scott
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:48 PM
  #1926  
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Originally Posted by motomanpat
The only problem I had with that inlet is that it is pretty soft rubber and I had found mine at least on my truggy to be wound up a little bit which could have caused some air intake loss but I am sure it would depend on your kit and setup. Mine was on a CRT!
The body on a buggy prevents that from happening. When you run it on a truggy you can use the provided bracket to support the other end of the filter.
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:34 PM
  #1927  
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Sorry for this ST-RR question, but I'm guessing some of you must run both buggy & truggy. How many shims and on which side when putting the rear diff together? How do you know if it's shimmed correctly? Thanks guys!
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:44 PM
  #1928  
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I don't have to shim my diffs for the MP9. As for the STRR, I shim it till it has almost no slop (It does have a little) between the pinion gear and the diff gear. The gears must remain free spinning when you spin the wheels. Can't exactly tell you how many shims are needed on both sides as it may vary from car to car.
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:54 PM
  #1929  
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Originally Posted by foampervert




I just have a couple of Kyosho gripes, I wish Kyosho makes the drive axle drive pins available for replacement... rather then have to change the whole axle when the drive pins are worn. They dunt seem to fit 3mm pins.



-alexander

That comment alone made me happy i didn't buy this car even though i wanted it so bad.
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:56 PM
  #1930  
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Originally Posted by RB FIVE
That comment alone made me happy i didn't buy this car even though i wanted it so bad.
You should have gotten one, axle pins are a small complaint on a great car.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:43 PM
  #1931  
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^ +1
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:02 PM
  #1932  
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Default you never know....

Originally Posted by RB FIVE
That comment alone made me happy i didn't buy this car even though i wanted it so bad.
I think if we all wrote in to Kyosho, They will release the drive pins... what do you say?

Kyosho-ers unite! let's bugger them till they start selling the pins or limp off the track all funny like.

btw, here's a tip for kyosho buggy-ers... dunt throw away your mp9 bearings if they feel gritty, open them up with an awl and throw away the metal shields. blast them out with cleaners. fill them up with grease and find rubber seals and seal em up. the bearings are actually long lasting because they have polyamide cages and are super smooth. then again, bearings are so cheap nowsadays, you can almost change a set before each race...

also, make sure there is a slight fore-aft play on the rear centre drive shaft/pinion joint. around 0.5 to 0.8mm. this will ensure that the rear pinion bearing doesn't become an issue. play in the gear boxes needs to be adjusted WITHOUT grease and with the gearbox cover screwed down.

enjoy!

Shalom and God Bless!

-alexander
p.s. need the pins...
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:45 PM
  #1933  
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Yeah Foam i just started pulling the shield off my bearings after every time out at the track, and I blast out the grease with Carberator cleaner...then toss all the bearings in my small Ultrasonic parts cleaner...pull em out, repack them all with grease and put the shields back on...sounds like alot of work, but taking the shields off every bearing takes like 5 minutes, and then i line them all up on a rag and spray them all off in a line with carb cleaner..less than 5 minutes, then i can toss them in the ultrasonic parts cleaner and forget aobut it while I wrench/clean other crap.

then when the cars ready to go back together....just 15 minutes with a screwdriver and grease and repack em all

I dnt know maybe im just anal about maintenance... you could just go buy new bearings
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Old 05-20-2009, 03:43 AM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
On the kyosho site, use the Tebo set up and move the rear camber link on the shock tower up to the 7 hole. If you have traction roll still, take out 1 mm of droop front and rear.
Hope this helps

Scott
thamnk, i ll try it....

PS what is your name???
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:23 AM
  #1935  
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Originally Posted by amonmp9
thamnk, i ll try it....

PS what is your name???
Scott Shinn
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