Inferno MP9 thread
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#1922
MP9 TKI...
I have a mp9 TKI and am enjoying it tremendously,
I must say, the new MP9SE would prolly allow more people to enjoy the buggy but i think SE owners are gonna lose out on the lightweight parts. It really makes the buggy come alive... I'm running my engine rich but my MP9 can out accelerate any other buggy on the straights (I use a picco p3r, vs the typical os v-spec drivers)
I am quite keen on the lowered shock towers and M sized shocks though, Our track in Singapore doesn't typically include big jumps so the long droop of the original shocks are kinda redundant.
And the hard anodising on the chassis and towers really do make em a lot tougher.
I just have a couple of Kyosho gripes, I wish Kyosho makes the drive axle drive pins available for replacement... rather then have to change the whole axle when the drive pins are worn. They dunt seem to fit 3mm pins.
Neither do I understand the need for a large sized centre diff case? Huh? why not reuse the diff case from the front and rear (it'll be lighter, for one, and less parts to worry bout)
All in all, very pleased with the MP9, am now looking forward to a MP9 based truggy...
-alexander
I must say, the new MP9SE would prolly allow more people to enjoy the buggy but i think SE owners are gonna lose out on the lightweight parts. It really makes the buggy come alive... I'm running my engine rich but my MP9 can out accelerate any other buggy on the straights (I use a picco p3r, vs the typical os v-spec drivers)
I am quite keen on the lowered shock towers and M sized shocks though, Our track in Singapore doesn't typically include big jumps so the long droop of the original shocks are kinda redundant.
And the hard anodising on the chassis and towers really do make em a lot tougher.
I just have a couple of Kyosho gripes, I wish Kyosho makes the drive axle drive pins available for replacement... rather then have to change the whole axle when the drive pins are worn. They dunt seem to fit 3mm pins.
Neither do I understand the need for a large sized centre diff case? Huh? why not reuse the diff case from the front and rear (it'll be lighter, for one, and less parts to worry bout)
All in all, very pleased with the MP9, am now looking forward to a MP9 based truggy...
-alexander
#1923
Hi Scott It is made by OFNA. amain sell them
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3828
I have always run one to keep the air filter away from the throttle and brake linkages but on the MP9 it has the added benefit of stopping the air filter rubbing the paint off the top of the body.
There still isnt that much space between the engine heat sink and the side of the body.
Cheers............Dave
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3828
I have always run one to keep the air filter away from the throttle and brake linkages but on the MP9 it has the added benefit of stopping the air filter rubbing the paint off the top of the body.
There still isnt that much space between the engine heat sink and the side of the body.
Cheers............Dave
The only problem I had with that inlet is that it is pretty soft rubber and I had found mine at least on my truggy to be wound up a little bit which could have caused some air intake loss but I am sure it would depend on your kit and setup. Mine was on a CRT!
#1924
Tech Apprentice
#1926
The body on a buggy prevents that from happening. When you run it on a truggy you can use the provided bracket to support the other end of the filter.
#1927
Sorry for this ST-RR question, but I'm guessing some of you must run both buggy & truggy. How many shims and on which side when putting the rear diff together? How do you know if it's shimmed correctly? Thanks guys!
#1928
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I don't have to shim my diffs for the MP9. As for the STRR, I shim it till it has almost no slop (It does have a little) between the pinion gear and the diff gear. The gears must remain free spinning when you spin the wheels. Can't exactly tell you how many shims are needed on both sides as it may vary from car to car.
#1932
you never know....
Kyosho-ers unite! let's bugger them till they start selling the pins or limp off the track all funny like.
btw, here's a tip for kyosho buggy-ers... dunt throw away your mp9 bearings if they feel gritty, open them up with an awl and throw away the metal shields. blast them out with cleaners. fill them up with grease and find rubber seals and seal em up. the bearings are actually long lasting because they have polyamide cages and are super smooth. then again, bearings are so cheap nowsadays, you can almost change a set before each race...
also, make sure there is a slight fore-aft play on the rear centre drive shaft/pinion joint. around 0.5 to 0.8mm. this will ensure that the rear pinion bearing doesn't become an issue. play in the gear boxes needs to be adjusted WITHOUT grease and with the gearbox cover screwed down.
enjoy!
Shalom and God Bless!
-alexander
p.s. need the pins...
#1933
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Yeah Foam i just started pulling the shield off my bearings after every time out at the track, and I blast out the grease with Carberator cleaner...then toss all the bearings in my small Ultrasonic parts cleaner...pull em out, repack them all with grease and put the shields back on...sounds like alot of work, but taking the shields off every bearing takes like 5 minutes, and then i line them all up on a rag and spray them all off in a line with carb cleaner..less than 5 minutes, then i can toss them in the ultrasonic parts cleaner and forget aobut it while I wrench/clean other crap.
then when the cars ready to go back together....just 15 minutes with a screwdriver and grease and repack em all
I dnt know maybe im just anal about maintenance... you could just go buy new bearings
then when the cars ready to go back together....just 15 minutes with a screwdriver and grease and repack em all
I dnt know maybe im just anal about maintenance... you could just go buy new bearings
#1934
Tech Apprentice