jamiekerr14

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKy1DhSo9g0

Great bit of advice from Bren Ralls

blade954

iTrader: (23)

Yep good info and good to see the Factory Xray drivers doing that sort of thing.

jamiekerr14

Yeah I agree, you don't see many specially other brands.. even something simple. Like posting up latest setups, not many other companies driver's do. They keep them top secret. But 99% of the Xray Factory guys post up there latest setups. Which are very usefully to help the average driver, to get a rough basic setup.. let alone posting helpful vids ect..

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Hello Everyone,

I am switching over from an AE-RC8B, which was a good buggy, just got sloppy too fast. I just purchased a used 2010 spec, and was wondering how the 808 compares the the rc8B in terms of driveability?

jamiekerr14

Welcome! I have never driven the RC8B but had a brief go with a RC8 a while back. And I personally found it to be a bit heavy, and not so agile as the 808's. But I have heard they have improved since the RC8.. so who knows. But I can guarantee you will love the 808. Very durable, pleasure to drive jumps like a dream and have great support from team driver's if you need setup help and questions! You will be made very welcome in here and on the xray forum!

shane oc

ive seen the prototype 2011 car naked, was impressed thats all im sayin

Gizmatron

iTrader: (12)

Nice video bren..
OK bearing update here...I put in the set of abec 5 test bearings my supplier sent me to test and as they are rubber shielded both sides I remove the inner seal from the front bearing,both seals from the middle bearing and the front seal from the innermost bearing then assembled pretty much as per Bren's video, except using the third bearing instead of the spacer collar , but packing everything with grease as I went.Inside the diff housing I fitted one of the 14x20x0.1 shims from the heli supplier someone posted a couple of pages back so there was no chance of the inner rubber seal jumping into the pinion gears.And the 3 small screws as usual.My dust boot mod is fitted as also posted a few pages back.

So far 2 days practice and today race day means around 4 hours hard running and not a sign of play.Way better than I was getting with the avid bearings.Took the rear apart just for a look today before the final and to repack with grease but to be honest it didn't need it.I did it anyway as I had everything apart but all 3 bearings tight as new after 4 hours.With the avids I was using before no matter how much grease I added the front seemed to start dying at around 2 hours use.Hold the inner and outer races in my fingers and I could clearly wobble the inner race.Obviously a foretaste of a bearing about to let go!!!

So now I'm a happy bunny again.Shame my final ended crap.Startline stall meant I started from the pit lane in 10th pulled up into 5th in 3 laps and held it for almost all the race ..then passed the 4th place guy only to lose the screw holding the front upper suspension to the shock tower..Instant and total loss of drive and steering.fast replacement and back out to finish 7th..but gutted nonetheless.still great day and the 2010 car is just my big love affair.I am sooooo enjoying driving this buggy now.with the few tiny gripes sorted it is just so easy to drive fast.

Bren Ralls

First time video but an iphone bluetack & big lamp is all i had but done the trick, gives you all an idea rather than just pictures even if i do sound like a train spotter when speaking. It was done for Xray but they choose to publish the picture & written explanation. The Grease tip does give an extended life but is still work in progress.
For me the biggest result is by using a boot & sealing in the drivshaft entry point. Its been posted several times on here what peolple have done, my idea included. At 12 hours on my car now the pin that touches the centre diff is worn in half but all pins in the pinion assembly have no sign of wear or movement even though same age. The grease i can now apply behind the boot does its job without getting contaminated with dirt & dust which is great, After 3 1/2 hours solid use at the proline took it apart out of curiosity, still all greased up & looking good. Bearing life not finished yet & still like new with no movement. For these i have run some 45 & 1 hour long mains on some brutal tracks so heat & track showing its not an issue.
When it wears out & fails will let you all know but with Robin one of our other team drivers getting 23 hours from his mod see it will be a while yet.

jamiekerr14

Hey Bren yeah the vid is very helpful. Should be getting my 10spec.. later this week. So will be doing your method, and hopefully do your dust cover method as well. As seems like your having good luck with it- will try to search and find how you did it

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Does any standard 3 shoe clutch and flywheel and clutchbell work on this vehicle? Or is there a specific size?

jamiekerr14

Any-The Xray setup isnt cheap-Clutch shoes springs, CB and bearings. But I find they last longer than other's. The Xray clutchbell uses larger size clutch bearings and standard is 16t Bell. Any 16T xray or another brand will work-But remember xray takes the larger bearings unlike most other brands. Which generally tend to last longer in my view

mcion

iTrader: (32)

I was looking at the mugen flywheel and clutch items, they seem to be the same as Xray except the clutchbell is that correct? Just in case I ever needed to borrow something like that, I roll with a few mugen guys at the tracks I attend.

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

Does anyone have a Hudy replacement tool and would be willing to replace some driveshaft pins for me? I will pay the shipping and compensate you for your time. Thanks, Rich. [email protected]

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

email sent

oggietiu

iTrader: (7)

http://www.acerracing.com/index.php?...3x19&x=73&y=12

Does this seem a little strange to you? 20 Bucks for a piece of 13x19 pinion bearing for the bulkhead? The 13x20 is just 7.99. I used to buy these and it last the longest but 20 bucks. 40 per Bulkhead hehe..