plus2ss

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes its the little things that get overlooked. I was about to buy a new servo until i found the servo saver was just loose.

On a side note, i just finished the tank clunk mod using the clunk from a D8. It looks kinda sketchy but should work great. Im racing tonight and will try to post a pic as soon as i can.

morgoth

Does anyone know what the 2 setscrews do on the aluminium rear hubs?

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

they hold the hinge pin in one place so the arms pivot on the pin. i found the a pain to deal with on the 5R cause i would forget to take them out then i wanted to remove the hinge pin. just leave them out.

rustyrevo

the set screws should be in or it will wear out those nice aluminum hubs.

hobdog

iTrader: (19)

I am looking to replace my reciever batteries this winter for NiMh 1600 to a life pack. So far the only one I have found for under $20 is at rcmushroom and it is a 1450mh which I don't think I would want one that small. Has anyone found a larger compacity life that works with our cars?

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

I havent found any that fit but i did use a 2000mah life in my car by using some long screws and basically using the batt box lid to lightly clamp it in place. It was for a 45 minute main and didnt think my 1350 would make it. After a 5 minute warmup and the main, i had only used 1100mah with 2 airtronics HV servos.

Eagle7

iTrader: (28)

The 1450 is all you'll need it last all day without a recharge and no one makes a flat pack any larger. I've run practice, two 10min q's and a 30min main without topping off my 1450 pack. A normal race day of three 5 or 6 min q's and a 20 or 25 min main takes about 700 to 800 out of the pack. RC Toro has them as well but email him to make sure before you buy.

http://www.rc-toro.com/product_info....9d81fca95d3fc4

camocowboy

iTrader: (24)

So here is the thing. Something in my car is making my motor flame out. I have checked or just changed everything I can think of. I am not new to this by any means. I am out of ideas.

The car is 1 race old, it was brand new kit before the byrons race. I had problems there, went out to practice tonight, same thing. Just flames at random on the track after it gets warmed up. The motor is maybe 3-4 gallons on it, but I am sure it's not that because I took it out and put it in another guys car and it ran great. I can't even say its a mugen thing because I put it in another mugen. Same motor, pipe, header, and clutch.

Any ideas? Tank and fuel line are new.

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Greg that is weird. I dont think you had this problem on your last kit.

morgoth

So set the screws tight so the pin moves in the A-arms and not in the hubs? I guess my A-arms will wear then?
Isn't this a battery for you? It's a lipo, but the discription says it fits the mbx6 and mbx6t. I found this when I was looking for a M11x lipo.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Balancer-Plug

morgoth

Btw, how much do you nitro cars weight guys? I found 3370g on the mugen site, but I guess that's with an empty tank? I'm putting my brushless car on a diet so it's closer to nitro. My goal is near 3450g because I think that's +- the weight of a nitro car with a half tank of fuel. Or am I wrong?

rustyrevo

better the arms than the hubs plus if you break a pin it won"t fall out. the set screws will hold it in . arms are cheaper and get replaced more often than the hubs.

JUD

iTrader: (4)

Start with the engine. Check the clutch nut, shoes and springs. Make sure the cooling head is on tight. check the carb inlet and make sure that screw is tight. Change fuel tubing. Change the manifold gaskets on your header. Make sure they are snug. Turn your idle screw up. Maybe use a different plug. OD 99t are good all around plugs. Hope this helps.

James khoo

iTrader: (15)

I'm using 1700 Nimh,it fit well in the receiver box.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

3200g is the roar limit...pending running gear, some guys set-up's might vary as much as an Ounce or more.