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Mugen MBX6

Old 06-17-2012, 03:35 PM
  #16846  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
I posted a few weeks back something I was going to try with my new 6R to speed up the run in of the diffs.
I ran 222 in the diffs, its cold here in NZ this time of year so warmer temps use 332, I had planed to run it for a fews tank before setting it up for racing but to my surprise the car drove extremely well right from the first tank, no oversteer problems it felt planted and I could have raced it like that.
HI , Did u run the rest of the car stock set up, or personal set up. as the stock set up seems odd, but ive never tried it.
re diffs- do u think that the balance between weights f/c/r are as much to do as the oil weights.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:17 PM
  #16847  
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Hi Will, yes I did build it to the kit setup, just went slightly higher in the shock oil, fronts a 450/500 mix and rears 400/450 mix and fitted a +3 BCE chassis

in my mbx6 that I race i run 77 and a mix of 3 and 4 in the rear, thats on a grippy clay track.

what diff oil is best to run is a very subjective question, traction levels,tyres, temps and roughness of a track all facter into it plus how hard a driver likes to or can push a car.

A lot of guys who are having traction in the rear problems are being told to go to 5 in the rear yet others say 2 or 3.

Once a new car is run in you just have to test different diff oils to see what suites you and the track best or go with one of the stock settings, I always liked 663 the last few years.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:44 PM
  #16848  
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51
I run them, it's a really nice mount and extremely strong. I also like the fact that the screws that hold the quick change on is farther spaced than kings heads and foroni making changing an engine easier. Also I have seen a few the kings heads break including mine.
+1
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:13 PM
  #16849  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
Hi Will, yes I did build it to the kit setup, just went slightly higher in the shock oil, fronts a 450/500 mix and rears 400/450 mix and fitted a +3 BCE chassis

in my mbx6 that I race i run 77 and a mix of 3 and 4 in the rear, thats on a grippy clay track.

what diff oil is best to run is a very subjective question, traction levels,tyres, temps and roughness of a track all facter into it plus how hard a driver likes to or can push a car.

A lot of guys who are having traction in the rear problems are being told to go to 5 in the rear yet others say 2 or 3.

Once a new car is run in you just have to test different diff oils to see what suites you and the track best or go with one of the stock settings, I always liked 663 the last few years.
Do u run those shock oils with the shocks leaned in fully, or in std position?

Yeah , theres alot of talk about loose rear , but i have never had a mbx6 that felt loose on power, except my eco, which had 7/10/ 2k diffs stock, went to 7/10 /3.5k and now it perfect.

The areas of the mbx6r set up that seemed a bit weird is the 2.5 rear toe block and the hard rear ,soft front spring combo

WILL
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:07 AM
  #16850  
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Originally Posted by nitroxr
Hey everyone I was just wondering if there is anyone on here that came from the losi 2.0. I had a mspec a few years back and wasnt happy on the way it turned. Maybe I didnt give it enough time. I can get a good deal on a 6r us spec car just curious on peoples reviews of the car?
I have both the Losi 2.0 and the new Mugen MBX6R US version. I like both cars, but I still prefer the Losi even though I can control the Mugen better. I know that sounds strange but the losi flies better and depending on the track this can make or break a race. I am new to RC racing (previous basher with NO track time) so I have stuck with the Losi to get the feel and when I started "tuning" the car for better handling I can actually see the difference. The Losi is lighter and my main problems were always traction so with the heavier Mugen I had a bit better traction but....... My track times with the Losi are an average 1.3 seconds faster without any errors with a record for both cars favoring the losi with a 2.67 higher quickest lap time. Granted my Losi has the new radio tray, and both are running the same engine but my losi has a few hop up parts 12 degree front hubs, thicker sway bars and upgraded shock towers for more locations on other settings. To be fair I have my Mugen set up like I set up my Losi using the same setup sheet. Every change I make I make to both. I do crash the Mugen less so overall my total lap times on the Mugen are far better than the Losi but individual lap times are slower.

I know this sounds strange but as a new driver with very few races under my belt and very little track time under my belt (2 on road races with a buggy and 2 off road races with a buggy and about 6 months worth of weekend track time) I have finished all my mains and never placed last, usually in the middle of the pack position 6 or 7 in a 12 car main. This being said once I gain better control then the theory would point to the Losi as being the better car, but in today's car market every car is about equal it is the setup and the driver who win or loose the race, not the brand. With that in mind I love my Mugen and I love my Mugen, Losi for race Mugen for play
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:14 AM
  #16851  
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I went to the Mugen after the Losi, The set up on my Mugen is no where near what my Losi set up was. They are totally different cars and must be set up differently. Yeah you tune the car the same as you would as far as shock incline,shock oil,spring,diff fluid,etc. etc. But the cars are different and should have completely different set ups. I know i run much heavier shock oil/springs and much heavier diff fluid than I ever have in my Mugen. Mugen has more adjust ability than a Losi, and for me a lot faster corner speed and its better overall. This can help some or hurt you depending on your knowledge of set ups. And you say you are more consistent with the Mugen but wont race it just because laps are slower? But your faster overall with the Mugen? Consistency wins races not faster lap times. And what i mean by that is, Yeah there is a guy that is fast for a few laps but then falls off a few. If there is a car that is maybe just a little slower behind him but his lap times are a lot more consistent then he will eventually get around him.

They are different cars and need different set ups. You wouldn't put the same tune on a Chevy car then go to a Ford and do the same.

Last edited by Rock333; 06-18-2012 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:54 AM
  #16852  
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I also switched from the Losi 2.0 to the MBX6R and I just like the 6R better. It drives more predictably and comfortably. I find the 6R more enjoyable to maintain as well.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:14 AM
  #16853  
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Went from the Losi 2.0 to the MBX6R as well. Also drove both the nitro and electric RC8.2. The Losi and MBX6R are completely different and the fast setups for each car for a given track were vastly different.

Once I figured out the Mugen, I liked it much better than the Losi. I was generally faster with it. I can carry more corner speed is the main difference. I have the opposite opinion about jumping. I think the Mugen settles in after a jump better than the Losi.

Also, the Mugen parts quality is better. The Losi gets all kinds of sloppy (which actually makes it faster), but I also found that the Losi turnbuckles were always changing lengths while driving the car which made for some self adjusting camber

As far as the 8.2 and the Mugen goes, I feel that the MBX6R is the car that the 8.2 wants to be and that's all I'll say about that.

I like the 6R, but I do question how much thought Mugen put into the +5mm chassis and the battery forward design. Seems like they wanted to get with the latest trends, but didn't think through the weight distribution completely and how these changes would affect handling in US style and Euro style tracks, and hence why this car seems to require a COMPLETELY different setup than the average setup of most other cars, and probably the reason Mugen released the EU and US version soon after.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:48 AM
  #16854  
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I love the parts quality, handling and overall drivability of the mbx6r.

The only gripe I have is about the paper thin fuel tank that swells when hot. It shrinks when you put 70 degree fuel in when pitting causing a rush of fuel to the carb resulting in a flame out. I know many don't have this issue but I have not finished the last two series races due to it. I ordered the Tamiya 801x tank to try as I've read it's a direct fit. I hope it's thicker and won't swell up when hot. I'm also going to try the clunk mod on the stock buggy tank to see if that fixes my flaming issue.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:13 AM
  #16855  
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For God's sake, someone please tell me how the %$^& you get the little black fuel line holders to stay on the side of the tank to route your fuel lines? I have tried CA glue, gorilla glue, 3m automotive tape, nothing will keep these suckers on the side of the tape for more than 1 heat race!!!!! I clean with alcohol, then sand the surface. What in the world do you guys do to get these to stay? What is the worlds strongest plastic to plastic bonding agent?
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:45 AM
  #16856  
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Originally Posted by mjealey
For God's sake, someone please tell me how the %$^& you get the little black fuel line holders to stay on the side of the tank to route your fuel lines? I have tried CA glue, gorilla glue, 3m automotive tape, nothing will keep these suckers on the side of the tape for more than 1 heat race!!!!! I clean with alcohol, then sand the surface. What in the world do you guys do to get these to stay? What is the worlds strongest plastic to plastic bonding agent?
Hopefully someday Mugen will mold some threaded hardpoints into the tank for that. In the mean time, I use AKA tire glue after cleaning and sanding the tank and the mount.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:49 AM
  #16857  
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
Hopefully someday Mugen will mold some threaded hardpoints into the tank for that. In the mean time, I use AKA tire glue after cleaning and sanding the tank and the mount.
And just ising ca glue yours will actually make it through 1 raceday?
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:23 AM
  #16858  
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Originally Posted by mjealey
And just ising ca glue yours will actually make it through 1 raceday?
ShoeGoo when its new lasts a little longer, like 3 race days. But after that and some fuel gets under there, no hope.
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:38 AM
  #16859  
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
Hopefully someday Mugen will mold some threaded hardpoints into the tank for that. In the mean time, I use AKA tire glue after cleaning and sanding the tank and the mount.
Same method I use, sand tank and clip, clean both with rubbing alcohol, then a little aka tire glue and it's been on my buggy sense December
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:43 AM
  #16860  
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51
Same method I use, sand tank and clip, clean both with rubbing alcohol, then a little aka tire glue and it's been on my buggy sense December

+1 on that, gotta sand them both and make sure they are super clean and AKA tire glue works great!
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