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Mugen MBX6

Old 11-03-2010, 11:32 PM
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11.98:1
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:34 AM
  #9497  
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11.98 indeed.

Diff ratio is 44/13 (3.38)
Clutch/spur is 46/13 (3.54)
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:48 AM
  #9498  
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Originally Posted by lk
What is the weight difference between the aluminum and plastic rear hubs?
Anyone??
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:42 AM
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Default bent chassis

Originally Posted by Mugen racer123
the car's hinge pins and rotating parts. Today i bought a new servo saver and relized that the chassi is bent
all u need is the kings head extended engine mount.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lk
Anyone??
Sorry friend, I dont know the weight but I am sure it would be very minor. Where the real advantage is in the rear aluminum uprights is they help dial in more rear traction in the buggy by less flex. I have some at home and will weigh both tonight.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
Sorry friend, I dont know the weight but I am sure it would be very minor. Where the real advantage is in the rear aluminum uprights is they help dial in more rear traction in the buggy by less flex. I have some at home and will weigh both tonight.
I bought my mbx6 second, but it was brand new in the box and in the bags. The guy bought the kit but hadn't the time to build/race it. I got a few alu hopups with it: Alu front upperbrace (I use it), alu shocktowers (I use them as spare, the CF looks better ), alu front brace (I use the stock plastic one), alu rear hubs. Now I don't know what to do with the rear hubs. I heard you break the hingepins/A-arms easier with them. Is this true? And what's the benefit of the alu rear hubs? Do they really give more rear traction?
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:41 PM
  #9502  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I bought my mbx6 second, but it was brand new in the box and in the bags. The guy bought the kit but hadn't the time to build/race it. I got a few alu hopups with it: Alu front upperbrace (I use it), alu shocktowers (I use them as spare, the CF looks better ), alu front brace (I use the stock plastic one), alu rear hubs. Now I don't know what to do with the rear hubs. I heard you break the hingepins/A-arms easier with them. Is this true? And what's the benefit of the alu rear hubs? Do they really give more rear traction?
Carbon fiber is almost always lighter than aluminum. I have found the exception to this with the OT Fioroni front upper plate and front brace combo. As well as shortening some of the screws, you also lose the need fir a couple of nuts, in the end I shaved off around ten grams.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen racer123
Becaus i want to

try leaving it alone for a couple weeks. i find that most cars dont like to be touched that often. make sure your shit has loctite on where needed and your bearings are ok and leave it.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by o.s. power
try leaving it alone for a couple weeks. i find that most cars dont like to be touched that often. make sure your shit has loctite on where needed and your bearings are ok and leave it.

I will try it but the only reason i do it is because i like it clean
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:43 PM
  #9505  
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Originally Posted by Mugen racer123
I will try it but the only reason i do it is because i like it clean
Yeah,clean car mean car ready to race.I like it clean too,and tear it down every 2 weeks of play.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I bought my mbx6 second, but it was brand new in the box and in the bags. The guy bought the kit but hadn't the time to build/race it. I got a few alu hopups with it: Alu front upperbrace (I use it), alu shocktowers (I use them as spare, the CF looks better ), alu front brace (I use the stock plastic one), alu rear hubs. Now I don't know what to do with the rear hubs. I heard you break the hingepins/A-arms easier with them. Is this true? And what's the benefit of the alu rear hubs? Do they really give more rear traction?
Morgoth, I bought the car upon it's first day of release and over time figured out what could use more durability. I am not saying these parts are necessary but for me the front tower in aluminum and the front upper hinge pin holder are very well worth investing. I managed to break several of both items until I finally switched to aluminum. As for the rear uprights yes they will help the car hook up better, less flex. This has been figured out by many if mugens top drivers already but once again it is not totally necessary. If you choose to use them be sure and use the small setscrews to secure the hinge pin to the upright. I will weigh them in a minute.
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Old 11-04-2010, 07:54 PM
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According to my scale a plastic upright is 14 grams and the aluminum is 19 grams. Not much difference. This is empty with no bearings.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by James khoo
Yeah,clean car mean car ready to race.I like it clean too,and tear it down every 2 weeks of play.
+1
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:32 AM
  #9509  
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
Morgoth, I bought the car upon it's first day of release and over time figured out what could use more durability. I am not saying these parts are necessary but for me the front tower in aluminum and the front upper hinge pin holder are very well worth investing. I managed to break several of both items until I finally switched to aluminum. As for the rear uprights yes they will help the car hook up better, less flex. This has been figured out by many if mugens top drivers already but once again it is not totally necessary. If you choose to use them be sure and use the small setscrews to secure the hinge pin to the upright. I will weigh them in a minute.
I have a few front carbon shocktowers that I got cheap from ebay. I ran the alu hubs for the first time during my last race this season. But that race was on dirt and I'm used to run on astroturf so I couldn't notice the difference. It was actually my race on dirt.

The track was very loamy and blown out. There were lots of bumps and ruts and I think my diffs where too thick. I was running 10-7-5 in the diffs. (I'm used to 20-15-10 or 15-15-7 on astro). I guys I'll try 7-7-3 next time on dirt.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mugen racer123
the car's hinge pins and rotating parts. Today i bought a new servo saver and relized that the chassi is bent
there we go.

don't oil/grease anything that's not enclosed. All it does is attract dust and make whatever you've coated bind/scrub. No "wet" lubing of any suspension parts, ever (unless dry lubing). Pull the car apart, and mount it "dry" except the conical diff gears.

Shocks and diffs need to be torn apart down to the o-ring level and rebuilt regularly however. Silicon fluids wear with time, not even talking about how "corrupted" they get with outer stuff (dust, nitro, ...), and then there's leaks...

A slightly bent chassis makes very little difference to the handling, really..

It's all in the maintenance

Paul
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