3LikesMugen MBX6
12-25-2011, 07:23 AM
Hey guys, I am curious as to where you are mounting your transponder on the new 6r? Inside the receiver box? It came with a little platform but not sure where it mounts at?
12-25-2011, 08:42 AM
http://www.nitrohouse.com/p24571/Mug...duct_info.html
Hey guys at nitrohouse when you buy the 6R they let you add the new ninja for 250.. pretty good deal..
Hey guys at nitrohouse when you buy the 6R they let you add the new ninja for 250.. pretty good deal..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/p1-hobbies-161/
p.s. Joe, I'll be calling you in a week or so about some kind of package!
12-25-2011, 09:03 AM
Tech Master
Recently I putted together a mugen mbx6 kit with the long chassis I went to practice on Friday morning to my local track and I just was not able to keep the pace with my friends and they were racing the new AE. My car simple had to much over steering. I tried everything that I was able to think I changed the rear plastic chassi brace to the aluminum one, I worked with the front droop and even putted the truggy shock tower because I read you can drive the car harder with more estability. I don't know what to do another thing is that I raced the m-spec setup with the o rings inside the diffs and I don't know I that is one of my problems.
I am simply out of ideas of what to do to make the car rear end more stable I was able to make better times with my a first version of the 808 of a friend of mine than with my brand new mugen.
Please if you have any ideas please let me know I really need to solve the problem.
I am simply out of ideas of what to do to make the car rear end more stable I was able to make better times with my a first version of the 808 of a friend of mine than with my brand new mugen.
Please if you have any ideas please let me know I really need to solve the problem.
try short wheel base at the rear end. remove All orings in the diffs. put shocks in the middle postition on your shocktowers. 7-7-5 front to rear in the diffs. If you have to much steering into the corner try long upper link and midle hole on tower. In my world, do not go down on rear droop,this makes your car twitchy ( rearend...) know if reduce droop at the front you get a more stable car.
ohh, and use the front hole in the acermanplate.
12-25-2011, 09:10 AM
Recently I putted together a mugen mbx6 kit with the long chassis I went to practice on Friday morning to my local track and I just was not able to keep the pace with my friends and they were racing the new AE. My car simple had to much over steering. I tried everything that I was able to think I changed the rear plastic chassi brace to the aluminum one, I worked with the front droop and even putted the truggy shock tower because I read you can drive the car harder with more estability. I don't know what to do another thing is that I raced the m-spec setup with the o rings inside the diffs and I don't know I that is one of my problems.
I am simply out of ideas of what to do to make the car rear end more stable I was able to make better times with my a first version of the 808 of a friend of mine than with my brand new mugen.
Please if you have any ideas please let me know I really need to solve the problem.
I am simply out of ideas of what to do to make the car rear end more stable I was able to make better times with my a first version of the 808 of a friend of mine than with my brand new mugen.
Please if you have any ideas please let me know I really need to solve the problem.
When you still have oversteer:
Reduce off power oversteer:
Less rear droop
More caster
Less kickup
Reduce on power oversteer:
Add front droop
Less caster
Less anti squat
Reduce overal steering:
Softer rear shocks
Longer camber links
Less front toe
more rear toe
These are some things that you can try after you loaded this setup on your car (but use the 2.75 0 toe block).
http://www.mugenseiki.com/images/mbx..._us1103kit.pdf
12-25-2011, 09:18 PM
i haven't started building my 6R yet
, we have guests and apparently my hobby room is also a guest bedroom
im confined to studying the manual...
12-25-2011, 10:02 PM
12-26-2011, 07:45 AM
Need some advice. Based on this current setup, the car performs much better than it was at Pattaya Buggy party but is still quite hard to keep the buggy under control. Buggy tends to have its rear slid sidewards on/off power. Track is generally bumpy and dusty.
12-26-2011, 09:11 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
I am unable to get the 0.9mm clutch springs at my LHS. Can I get the Kyosho 0.9mm ones? Looks similar in design. Will they work?
12-26-2011, 10:13 AM
they should. buy a set and see if they fit.
12-26-2011, 11:18 AM
12-26-2011, 11:38 AM
On rear try rear toe block and anti squat to a 1.3 instead of 0.3, camber angle -2, 2.6 roll bar, 124 mm rebound stop, move upright to center other then top, mover upper arm position down on tower.
Also your shock oil in rear is pretty high try like 350-400 and move the hole on tower to same on front tower where you have it now and on lower arm put it inside hole.
7,000 in center diff.
ride heigth 27mm front 28mm rear.
Try just rear end first like this and center diff and see what it does for you sence you said your washing out on and off power. I think this will help out alot.
12-26-2011, 01:33 PM
I bet if you talk to Joe at P1 Hobbies he'd make you a similar deal. Great guy with a new shop.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/p1-hobbies-161/
p.s. Joe, I'll be calling you in a week or so about some kind of package!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/p1-hobbies-161/
p.s. Joe, I'll be calling you in a week or so about some kind of package!
BTW, our MBX6R build is progressing nicely! Checkout some pics on our blog:
http://www.p1hobbies.com/blog/mugen-mbx6r-review/
12-26-2011, 03:50 PM
I don't know why you run a thicker oil in the rear than in the front, but the rear should be 50-100lighter than the front. This will make the car easier to drive.
The springs seems OK. I'd try 450 front and 400 rear. I think you'll notice the difference because I think the 10.75 spring is to soft to work fast with the 500 oil. Especially on that bumpy track.
12-26-2011, 11:07 PM
For front try +2 toe, change lower arm kick up block to 1 instead of 0, mover shock to inner hole on arm, and put upper arm position down instead of middle hole.
On rear try rear toe block and anti squat to a 1.3 instead of 0.3, camber angle -2, 2.6 roll bar, 124 mm rebound stop, move upright to center other then top, mover upper arm position down on tower.
Also your shock oil in rear is pretty high try like 350-400 and move the hole on tower to same on front tower where you have it now and on lower arm put it inside hole.
7,000 in center diff.
ride heigth 27mm front 28mm rear.
Try just rear end first like this and center diff and see what it does for you sence you said your washing out on and off power. I think this will help out alot.
On rear try rear toe block and anti squat to a 1.3 instead of 0.3, camber angle -2, 2.6 roll bar, 124 mm rebound stop, move upright to center other then top, mover upper arm position down on tower.
Also your shock oil in rear is pretty high try like 350-400 and move the hole on tower to same on front tower where you have it now and on lower arm put it inside hole.
7,000 in center diff.
ride heigth 27mm front 28mm rear.
Try just rear end first like this and center diff and see what it does for you sence you said your washing out on and off power. I think this will help out alot.
Are you running the old chassis?
I don't know why you run a thicker oil in the rear than in the front, but the rear should be 50-100lighter than the front. This will make the car easier to drive.
The springs seems OK. I'd try 450 front and 400 rear. I think you'll notice the difference because I think the 10.75 spring is to soft to work fast with the 500 oil. Especially on that bumpy track.
I don't know why you run a thicker oil in the rear than in the front, but the rear should be 50-100lighter than the front. This will make the car easier to drive.
The springs seems OK. I'd try 450 front and 400 rear. I think you'll notice the difference because I think the 10.75 spring is to soft to work fast with the 500 oil. Especially on that bumpy track.
12-27-2011, 09:45 AM
Most of the handle problems everyone is having is due to the +5 mm chassis, it's simply to long, we have been running the BCE +3 mm chassis for the past 6 months and it has been dialed. It gives you back the planted fill you had with the short chassis with the stability of the +5 mm. Also we are running the batt forward kit and truggy tower I will post our latest setup we have been testing with for the past week with the truggy tower tweaks.