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Old 07-11-2011, 08:50 PM
  #12871  
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Originally Posted by goodlunds
the car is dialed when its low bite sandy loamy loose. but high bite its a handful. i run the shocks leaned in front back with 8.0 f/r 500wt. all the usual adjustments. i use at least half the steering wheel to get the feel i want. what should i do to settle the car when the grip is high.

thanks mugen peeps
Do you ever play with swaybars? When traction goes up bars get thicker, and vise-versa. In a very high traction situation it is not uncommon to find myself with a 2.5F/3.2R combo.
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:08 AM
  #12872  
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Originally Posted by mp9racer
Quick question just got the bce chassis do i need a longer drive shaft for it.?
If you have the MK2 or X2 it is 1.3mm longer and you stock one works fine, if it is the X5 you will need the longer shaft that Mugen has made.


GOODLUNDS, I would have to agree with Johnny T on his fix If you stand the shocks more upright it makes them more reactive wich would intensify your problem. Stiffer bars will just support the car and not change the handling characteristics that you like about your own setup. As someone stated also camber and tires will play a part in this as well.

Scott
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:52 AM
  #12873  
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Originally Posted by goodlunds
the car is dialed when its low bite sandy loamy loose. but high bite its a handful. i run the shocks leaned in front back with 8.0 f/r 500wt. all the usual adjustments. i use at least half the steering wheel to get the feel i want. what should i do to settle the car when the grip is high.

thanks mugen peeps
You're using pretty hard springs and think oil (as thick as in the front) in the rear of the car. Which increases the steering a lot.

Try 8.0f and 8.25 rear with 500 front and 450 in the rear. Also use thicker swaybars and use the middle or the upperhole on the shocktower and the middle hole on the hubs.

On what kind of surface do you drive. I drive my car a lot on astro and that's very high grip, and the car is really good. With the right setup you can make it handle like you want.
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:56 AM
  #12874  
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Originally Posted by slow coach
how do you drive just to know your style
I have driven Losi for years, so very used to a Loose car, the Losi though is sometimes just a bit to loose and needs a lot of maintenance. I generally drive hard into the corner, let the car rotate (off-power), and power out. I like a car to feel nimble, light on its feet, and quick out of the corner. I tend to lose time in the middle of the corner, but can drive hard enough in and out of the corner to make up for it. I would rather adjust my finger to suit the track and conditions than to have a car that is not reponsive.

So, If you are used to driving a Losi style car, you should try this setup.....
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:00 AM
  #12875  
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Originally Posted by goodlunds
the car is dialed when its low bite sandy loamy loose. but high bite its a handful. i run the shocks leaned in front back with 8.0 f/r 500wt. all the usual adjustments. i use at least half the steering wheel to get the feel i want. what should i do to settle the car when the grip is high.

thanks mugen peeps
What are your tire choices? Could be as simple as that.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:19 AM
  #12876  
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Default NEW QUICK CHANGE FLYWHEEL SYSTEM FROM M2C RACING



M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our new QUICK CHANGE 4 SHOE CLUTCH SYSTEM. THIS SYSTEM IS THE MOST ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH SYSTEM IN THE WORLD TO OUR KNOWLEDGE.
The system (kit 6075) fits ALL 1/8 SCALE VEHICLES on the market that run a 34mm flywheel.
Exceptions;
We also have a 36mm model for the Durango (part no. 6050)
And kyosho a 32mm model (part no.6055)
Based on a proven design of our 6027 variable weight system, this new flywheel incorporates a newly designed clutch nut and post that allows you to preload the shoes on or off the engine with our new mock crank tool. This tool allows you to work on the clutch without having to be bothered with working around the pipe and holding the motor. It also allows you to quickly change from one flywheel setup to another with the quick-change nut.
The new flywheel has (24) 4 mm screws (kyosho 32mm only has 20 set screws) to allow you to adjust your setup to track conditions. The flywheel with no weights is 19grams with shoes and clutch nut
This is great for the weaker bottom end motors or super high traction tracks.
Fully loaded is 26 grams making it one of the heaviest flywheels on the market. This allows you to tame down the more powerful engines.
This system uses the same shoes and springs as our other 4 shoe flywheel kits.
For more information see our website www.m2cracing.com
Or call me at 803 417 3071
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:26 AM
  #12877  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
GOODLUNDS, I would have to agree with Johnny T on his fix If you stand the shocks more upright it makes them more reactive wich would intensify your problem. Stiffer bars will just support the car and not change the handling characteristics that you like about your own setup. As someone stated also camber and tires will play a part in this as well.

Scott
have too agree with scott in the shock placement. car rolls quicker the more you stand them up.

BTW, scott tried one of your crazy ideas and tested the stiffest of the new springs 7.5f/8.0r on my car and was kinda impressed. the car was not the bucking bronco I assumed it would be, but had to go to a 5 hole piston to get that. 6 hole was too much with the stiffies. and middle placement on the tower. leaned in made for a weird feel, car too flat. will have to try them out at the futaba race coming up. see you there bro...

and drag carlton along if you can so he can regale us with stories of california racing.
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:12 PM
  #12878  
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The XRAY changed my
For MUGEN MBX 6 2011
Where can I see examples of setup
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:24 PM
  #12879  
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Originally Posted by johnny t
have too agree with scott in the shock placement. car rolls quicker the more you stand them up.

BTW, scott tried one of your crazy ideas and tested the stiffest of the new springs 7.5f/8.0r on my car and was kinda impressed. the car was not the bucking bronco I assumed it would be, but had to go to a 5 hole piston to get that. 6 hole was too much with the stiffies. and middle placement on the tower. leaned in made for a weird feel, car too flat. will have to try them out at the futaba race coming up. see you there bro...

and drag carlton along if you can so he can regale us with stories of california racing.
He cant go, remember just cause i dont have any hair dont mean i dont have a few good ideas I will be at St Louis around 8:30 am fri.

Scott
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:04 PM
  #12880  
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Originally Posted by rc_pro
The XRAY changed my
For MUGEN MBX 6 2011
Where can I see examples of setup
Here is my set up with a BCE X2 chassis (1.3mm longer)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
outdoors set up.pdf (316.6 KB, 208 views)
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:41 PM
  #12881  
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anyone know where i can reno savoya website jus wanted to see sum of his set-ups when he was running the mugen mbx6
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:51 PM
  #12882  
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Originally Posted by transplantlife
anyone know where i can reno savoya website jus wanted to see sum of his set-ups when he was running the mugen mbx6
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=8593

Pretty hard to find now because hes not a team driver for mugen. Mugen did have Reno's corner with all his tips and sheets but it got tookin down. But above is his 2010 Euro champ set up.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:56 PM
  #12883  
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thanks for the feedback. i will try the sway bars and a thicker diff set-up. i like the shocks in the layed down position. the last few amezcua setups are polar opposites of what traditional mugen setups have been.
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:12 AM
  #12884  
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Originally Posted by transplantlife
anyone know where i can reno savoya website jus wanted to see sum of his set-ups when he was running the mugen mbx6

http://www.racemugen.com/downloads.html a few are here. And try type 'savoya setup mbx6' or something like that in google.
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Old 07-13-2011, 11:43 AM
  #12885  
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Anyone have pics of how they run there fuel line. I want to stay in the legal 125cc range but i see some guys run it to the front body mount and some line RENO use to wrap it behind the engine and around the body post. I just run mine from tank, fuel filter, to engine but i was wondering will running it to front post really give me much more run time? Im not hurting for it but a lil more helps.
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