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Old 05-04-2011, 04:29 PM
  #12001  
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Default front chassis brace

is everyone running the long or the short with the 5+ chassis?
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:00 PM
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Run the plastic long brace
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by donrod
Hey Scott, which four shoe system are you using ? We were testing one for awhile and liked it but it never made it to production and went back to three shoe and have been considering going back to the four shoe.
Hey Don, I tested the Assendancy clutch a year ago and CRCRC was the next weekend so i took it out. I put it back in this winter and ran it all winter with good success, I ran the steel flywheel on the real slick stuff with the .90 springs, talk about puttin the power of the speed to the ground We had high bite last weekend at the 1st round of the Mid West Nitro so i went back to the allum. flywheel and 2 .90 springs and 2 1.0 . The bearings last forever and the clutch works flawless. The only thing is that the pins on the flywheel do wear to fast for my likings. I ran the Odonnell flywheel on the 3 shoe system and it would last all year with no wear on the pins.
IMO, i think it is for sure worth trying it out.

Scott
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:57 PM
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Anyone running werks clutch, understand it comes with 3 options. Can someone advise,

Scotts how many races can u clutch last u ?

Wat is the main different for using 4pc over 3pc
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
Anyone running werks clutch, understand it comes with 3 options. Can someone advise,

Scotts how many races can u clutch last u ?

Wat is the main different for using 4pc over 3pc
I have 2 clutches set up. am running steel with 2 carbon 2 aluminum with 0.9 and 1.0 springs and a std light clutch with 4 aluminum shoes

choice of clutch depends on track. Excellent results so far after a gallon last weekend on the 4 aluminum shoe system
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:18 AM
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Biao-ge, Haven't u tried the 4-shoe system? You might be interested to give the JVD system a shot. Leng has them. I'm using them though I might not be able to give a better review cause I'm not as fast as u guys.
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by johnny t
I my self have been experiencing some mid corner "bind" with the new parts. Looser rear diff was helping 5k. Arms always level front rear. Or in low traction situations hair above level. Ride height IMHO is best to be the last thing to fiddle with.

Shocks make a big deal and the new chassis (or is it the springs) likes the 6hole pistons better it seems. Try that with the oil of your choice. The mew springs definately require harder dampening over the old.

Hope that helps.
do you know the part #s for the 6 hole pistons? Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
Anyone running werks clutch, understand it comes with 3 options. Can someone advise,

Scotts how many races can u clutch last u ?

Wat is the main different for using 4pc over 3pc
The werks is a spin off of the assendancy (IMO) at the same price, The assendancy comes with all three size springs for tuning options.

How long it last depends on how much slip you set the clutch up with ( what spring and shoe setup) but with 4 alluminum shoes and 4 .90 springs i have been getting between 2 to 3 gallons on the shoes and bearings.

Some will say the 4 shoe over the 3 shoe it Night and Day,,,,,,, I believe its better but not drasticly better. You do get more clutch shoe surface contact to the bell with the 4 shoe.
The thing i like the best about the four shoe is the ability to run 2 different springs for tuning,,,,,,, let me explain, with the 3 shoe when you use different springs at the same time the bell and bearings get loaded unevenly. With the 4 shoe you can tune with spring variation in pairs, this loads the bell evenly keeping the smoother engagement, more consistant feel when it engages, and way less stress on the bearings, letting them last longer. As long as you do it in pairs.(IMO)
Hope this helps with your decision.

Scott
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ben73
I have 2 clutches set up. am running steel with 2 carbon 2 aluminum with 0.9 and 1.0 springs and a std light clutch with 4 aluminum shoes

choice of clutch depends on track. Excellent results so far after a gallon last weekend on the 4 aluminum shoe system
Ben, thanks for your info.
Congrate on your placing at Pattaya....

Originally Posted by adrictan
Biao-ge, Haven't u tried the 4-shoe system? You might be interested to give the JVD system a shot. Leng has them. I'm using them though I might not be able to give a better review cause I'm not as fast as u guys.
Ah adric ah, are you game for the coming race ?

Originally Posted by shinnbad12
The werks is a spin off of the assendancy (IMO) at the same price, The assendancy comes with all three size springs for tuning options.

How long it last depends on how much slip you set the clutch up with ( what spring and shoe setup) but with 4 alluminum shoes and 4 .90 springs i have been getting between 2 to 3 gallons on the shoes and bearings.

Some will say the 4 shoe over the 3 shoe it Night and Day,,,,,,, I believe its better but not drasticly better. You do get more clutch shoe surface contact to the bell with the 4 shoe.
The thing i like the best about the four shoe is the ability to run 2 different springs for tuning,,,,,,, let me explain, with the 3 shoe when you use different springs at the same time the bell and bearings get loaded unevenly. With the 4 shoe you can tune with spring variation in pairs, this loads the bell evenly keeping the smoother engagement, more consistant feel when it engages, and way less stress on the bearings, letting them last longer. As long as you do it in pairs.(IMO)
Hope this helps with your decision.

Scott
Scott, thanks for ur info
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:07 AM
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Thanks Scott, it seems the 4 shoe system gives you better fuel mileage as well.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dannyg1970
is everyone running the long or the short with the 5+ chassis?
I've tried the new braces with +5 chassis, and i didn't like the results, it may work on smooth surfaces, but i always run on dusty blown out low to medium grip tracks and with the old braces the car is much better, i run the same setup that i ran on the old chassis.
Still using the same shock springs, and i dont see any advantage on buying the new ones.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Wenbiao
Ben, thanks for your info.
Congrate on your placing at Pattaya....


Ah adric ah, are you game for the coming race ?
Scott, thanks for ur info
Coming. Glenmarie on 15th. Sat not running. Just run Sunday.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:41 AM
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Hey guys, just moved to a Mugen this year. Btw Very satisfied with the car, handles amazing. I've read the last 100 pages, but have some comments/questions:

1.Chassis bending, I noticed a lot of flex and nowadays its not completely straight...An old chassis cracked near the motor mount.
Is that common?
My hometrack is super rough, blow out. Btw is local where the 2012 Worlds will take place.

2. Pivots balls/uprights. A noticed that after few hours, the gap between ball and upright incresead maybe 0,5mm.
Should I reduce that gap until they move freely or leave that way?

3. Does anyone uses Losi clutch? The motor position is a bit foward to use Losi bell, so I'll drill new holes in the motor mount, and
move it a litlle back.( Thats because a have tons of Losi clutches with me) Anyone tried this?

4. S3 Vs S5 o'RING. Whats the point? If I have a leaking diff, should I replace S3 for S5 or It acts like a havier silicone oil?
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:00 AM
  #12014  
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The new chassis has a better rea brace, but the slight bend shouldn't hurt much, you could get the extended motor mount from King Headz, but it's like 50 bucks...

Sure you can adjust the pivot balls and they last after that...

I say use the stock clutch, it's really good...the hard mugen shoes are great..

and the Tony's screws o rings fit the diffs perfectly and no need for the smaller o rings in the diffs...
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Old 05-05-2011, 03:41 PM
  #12015  
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Originally Posted by thomasvx3
Hey guys, just moved to a Mugen this year. Btw Very satisfied with the car, handles amazing. I've read the last 100 pages, but have some comments/questions:

1.Chassis bending, I noticed a lot of flex and nowadays its not completely straight...An old chassis cracked near the motor mount.
Is that common?
My hometrack is super rough, blow out. Btw is local where the 2012 Worlds will take place.

2. Pivots balls/uprights. A noticed that after few hours, the gap between ball and upright incresead maybe 0,5mm.
Should I reduce that gap until they move freely or leave that way?

3. Does anyone uses Losi clutch? The motor position is a bit foward to use Losi bell, so I'll drill new holes in the motor mount, and
move it a litlle back.( Thats because a have tons of Losi clutches with me) Anyone tried this?

4. S3 Vs S5 o'RING. Whats the point? If I have a leaking diff, should I replace S3 for S5 or It acts like a havier silicone oil?
It's ok to have a little play in the pivot ball area .too tight will bind the steering and suspension

My team mate uses losi clutchs and bells ...like you said ,you'll have to drill and tap new holes in the engine mount

mugen has come out with new s5 o rings that work good.no need for s3 o rings
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