dreaux

iTrader: (5)

no

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

I just picked up myself a new (to me) MBX6. What is a good base setup as far as diffs and shocks (shock oil in Losi weights)? Also, are there any upgrades I should get right away? Spares? Thanks

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys. What is the sequence for removing the front diff the fastest for servicing?

Thanks

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

The mspec set up is a really good starting point so that you see what you want to change.

Grab These if you can

King Headz extended ez change motor mount
Aluminum front upper brace
Front and Rear lower a arms
Truggy droop stop screws
Mobil 1 synthetic grease for the diffs
Tony screw o rings for the diffs

With these you should be good for awhile

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

This I can do with my eyes closed as I've tried so many diff combinations

1- unscrew swaybar grub screws
2- unscrew bottom shock mount screw
3- unscrew both chassis front diff case mount M4 screws - pull bumper
4- unscrew both M3 upper diff case screws
5- unscrew both M4 hinge pin nuts (then it depends if you have them at the front or the rear. Easier if in front but eats up bumpskids. Stock bumper survives fine tho).
6- unscrew both M3*30 (the long ones with the washers) screws
7- pull front brace - don't lose wheelbase clips
8- pull diff case
9- pull diff out of car

To reassemble, do it the other way around. good luck putting the M4 screws back on if you have them at the rear

Paul

portyansky

iTrader: (54)

Mspec setup is nice for the diffs. For the shocks I fealt they stock oil was too stiff for my liking so i dropped it to (30-25 Trinity oil) . Only thing is the king headz extended motor mount. Thats it, the rest of the stuff is just bling.

What he said. But have my m4 towards the back and have no issues getting them back on. But im cool like that. LOL

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

can you share your technique not to go through the whole collection of available cusswords in the couple of minutes it takes to put each M4 nut back on? Maybe there's some kind of a solution I haven't thought about yet.

I try to pre-position the nuts with tweezers (usually takes 3/4 attemps and the nut falls on the floor somwhere) then I push towards the block with a screwdriver of some kind, at the same time I screw the hinge pin on hoping they're facing each other and I'll be able to get the first couple of threads in (again, 3/4 attempts with the nut sliding all over the chassis and getting stuck in remote locations). Once it's started screwing in (finall), I hold the nut with flat pliers, which forces me to bend the side protection outwards like crazy and of course it damages the nut shape... In the end it takes me a couple of minutes of frustration per side every time and the nuttier I get the longer it takes me. Can you suggest a better method? Thank god in the back I have the M2C setup otherwise I'd probably start throwing my car at the wall

thanks

PAul

portyansky

iTrader: (54)

Reversing it for sure makes life a lot easier. I have a set of bent forcepts. Still not easy, but i got it down. In the rear there is more room to work with, esspecialy on the truggy.

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

Got it, MSpec setup, kh motor mount. Does anybody know what weight mugen shock oil corresponds with losi shock oil? I have a boatload of losi oil, and it would eb wasteful to go buy mugen if I already ahve the same oil.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

25wt= 300
27.5wt= 350
30wt= 375ish
32.5wt= 400
35wt= 450

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

I have plent of 32.5. I may start out with that.

camocowboy

iTrader: (24)

They make the M2C stuff for the front of the car too. PROBLEM SOLVED.
I run the M2C all the way around and the M2C 4 shoe clutch. Couldn't be happier.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

well I finally got the car put together. Had a little hard time with the throttle and brake linkage. But got it figured out. Also set my travel points and for steering I am down to about 65 % for throttle and brake about 55-60% strange. Anyways here are some pics.

muaythai

iTrader: (1)

nice mate, make u use washers on the front screws from the front tower to diff to spread the weight.

it will crack around there. most run the alum tower.
I think this is one area of weakness in the mugen. my 808 never had a break in this section

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

Are you talking about all of the screws or just a couple? Got any pics? Thee are the type of things I want to make sure I know about on the truck.