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Old 05-09-2010, 09:31 PM
  #7216  
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Originally Posted by dishsoap
If you have not done so already changing the front springs to 9.75 and the rear springs to 10.75 is awesome.

Since the change I have ran these springs on 3 different tracks now. It jumps better, levels off better, reduces kick up and drives smoother.

If your looking for a change try it.


dishsoap. Is that the super soft springs?
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:38 PM
  #7217  
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Originally Posted by Davidka
If you don't like the looks of the Jconcepts wings (HD types) you can still find the old Pro-Line wings. They're durable and more conventional.
Where at cuz i have even noticed that Proline drivers like Cav and Bradley having to go with other companies' wings to replace hi down force wings. And its not so much the look of the hi down force wings its the handling effects they cause, very noticeable.
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:49 PM
  #7218  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
dishsoap. Is that the super soft springs?
Extra Soft

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ft-75mm-975T-2
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:33 PM
  #7219  
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The Kyosho wing will work.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:30 AM
  #7220  
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Originally Posted by dishsoap
If you have not done so already changing the front springs to 9.75 and the rear springs to 10.75 is awesome.

Since the change I have ran these springs on 3 different tracks now. It jumps better, levels off better, reduces kick up and drives smoother.

If your looking for a change try it.
+1 I have put about 4 gallons on my buggy and ended up with 9.5 front , 10.5 rear. It feels just like you described but better, dry slick and high bite. Oh yea I also use a 2.9 rear bar to keep the car flat in the corners,with 7,7,7, for diffs.
One fun car to drive!! You can push it as hard as you want and it stays setteled and calm.

Scott
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:40 AM
  #7221  
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Hi guys

back to our fave topic - diff oils

Was wondering why there seems to be 2 school of thoughts
A- hard front, mid middle, soft rear, like most setups one can find, think 10/7/3 or the stock 7/5/2
B- mid front, hard middle, soft rear - like the Mspec for instance, 5/7/3

which concept works better in which circumstances? as I think the M-spec is targeted at the US market, and remembering the smooth and grippy US tracks, I would think that harder center diffs are less adapted to blow-up euro tracks... whaddya fellas think?

Thanks

Paul
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:11 AM
  #7222  
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A- softens drive to the rear wheels, sends more power to the front.
B- more rear drive. More neutral all around in my opinion.

I have tried both, never liked 5k in the center. I find the car wanders more under power so I never got why people say it makes the car easier to drive. With 7k the car accelerates more positively for me regardless of grip levels.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:21 AM
  #7223  
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ride hieght and droop. i dont have droop blocks or the stair case looking ride height guage. all i have is the losi ride height guage and some digital calipers. what is the ideal ride height and droop settings for this buggy?
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:05 AM
  #7224  
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I am curious about the handling effects of thick diff oils vs. standard oil setups. For instance, what primary differences would I notice between a 15K / 20K / 7K diff oil setup vs. a 5K / 7K / 3K setup? I would assume that the car would be much more aggressive on throttle...but what characteristics would I notice off throttle?
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:49 PM
  #7225  
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Default Gas tank issue?

Guys, got an issue with my tank I think. When I built my 6, it would idle forever on it's lid with a sloppy rich engine. Now with a race tune at 9 mins/tank, fantastic idle, great punch, blowing smoke, and never stalls, lean bogs, or acts crazy...

Whenever the buggy is on it's lid, it immediately starts lean bogging. Otherwise, runs perfect. Help! The tank is getting some time on it, I don't think it's my engine tuning (25 min mains, no prob unless I flip, and pull at 220), but I just hope this isn't a Mugen thing, cause I'm really starting to kick some tail with this buggy!
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:13 PM
  #7226  
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Originally Posted by aaron2u
Guys, got an issue with my tank I think. When I built my 6, it would idle forever on it's lid with a sloppy rich engine. Now with a race tune at 9 mins/tank, fantastic idle, great punch, blowing smoke, and never stalls, lean bogs, or acts crazy...

Whenever the buggy is on it's lid, it immediately starts lean bogging. Otherwise, runs perfect. Help! The tank is getting some time on it, I don't think it's my engine tuning (25 min mains, no prob unless I flip, and pull at 220), but I just hope this isn't a Mugen thing, cause I'm really starting to kick some tail with this buggy!
Same here except mine have done that strait from the box thought it was weird but not giving too much thought to it.

And camocowboy, you said the kyosho Mp9 wing will work? how much extra hole trimming is needed for it to work?
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:47 PM
  #7227  
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Well, before I got my buggy I was running a friends and he had the MP9 wing. dont think there was much issue with the holes. Just dremeled off a little of the flat part the wing sits on so it didn't catch the back of the wing in a crash, this was not a must though.
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:49 PM
  #7228  
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I am just putting the finishing touches on my Mspec and need know when adjusting the front upper arm position do I change the inserts in front of and behind the pin or just the ones behind it? To me changing both makes since but that doesn't seem to be what the picture shows
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:07 PM
  #7229  
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I too think the stock wing may have too much down force. At one track I was
running with a broken stock wing, when I replaced the wing with a new one
my lap times got slower. I seen a guy drill holes in the foil of his wing to reduce down pressure. I think I will do some more testing, and maybe try this. The car seemed to corner more easily and smoothly with the broken wing.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:33 PM
  #7230  
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JLBanta...You stayin with the Mugen? Hope so...let me know if you want our opinion on the diff fluid heavy vs. light.....
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