pl_unc86

iTrader: (17)

I run 7-7-3 in mine 400 front and rear in the shocks, 2.2 front and 2.7 rear and my car is on rails. Any rear end trouble i ever have is because of braking too hard or simply using way too much throttle in the wrong place.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Yeah, I have three suggestions:

1. Change the tires
2. Change the tires
3. Change the tires

XTR compound tires are long lasting but unless the surface is soft or really abrasive and hard you're going to be hurting for traction. Try M2, Losi Red or Silver, or anything softer than XTR.

Zach Phillips

iTrader: (16)

Try Panther Komodo 2 MS they have never let me down on any track

Does anybody know the minimum distance between the 2 brake pads? That and where do people get the springs that go in between the brake pads to keep them separated?

Miller_Time

iTrader: (11)

Has anyone used an M2C four shoe clutch kit with the MBX6? If so, what screw and shims do you use for the clutchbell?

Here is the issue - I bought a used MBX6 that did not come with a flywheel, clutch, or any other items in that area. As it happens, the engine that I'm mounting in has an M2C clutch/flywheel and was previously used in an 8ight. I looked over the Mugen manual and can't decipher the part# for the screw and shims that go outside the clutchbell on the outer clutch bearing.

Does anyone know those part #s, or would a Losi screw/shim adapter work? The outer bearings are the same size as the Losi clutchbell uses so I would think that would work, but need to be sure before I mess something up

Thanks!

aaron2u

iTrader: (75)

LMAO... Ok, ok... I have been seeing a lot of Revolver's and City Block's around lately. Shame I invested cash into stuff I can't use! LOL, this hobby is a learning curve, but learning how to race is an expensive learning curve!

I have a set of Mugen shocks on the way... Is there a certain piston I should go with? Jammin, most people said the 1.4's.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Mugen shocks come 5x1.35 piston. Use 400 shock oil. On loose clay. AKA city blocks, or M3 crime fighters. Packed clay, low dust, Holeshot M3 or AKA gridirons. One thing, AKA require lower shock collar settings than Proline city block or hole shots by 2mm front and rear.

Only hard, hot clay will use a M2 or medium compound tire.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

I am using the M2C system with 4 Reg Hard shoes and two .9/ two .95 springs. As for shimming, that is all user preference. I use
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Kit-5x8x03mm .
I shim so there's just a tick of front to back play, usually putting as many shims as needed behind the inner bearing, and only one on the outside of the outer bearing. Then I simply use a normal button head screw, I think 3x6 or maybe 3x8mm to secure the bell. Also, with my current Ex Tech engine, I find I need two of the M2C shims behind the flywheel for proper CB/Spur orientation. Hope this helps

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hi Guys

two questions please

1- are some of your replacing the dogbone pins instead of changing the whole bone? If yes, what tool/method are you using, and what are you replacing them with?

2- Can anyone explain to me how changing the angle of the rear joints by moving the arms/hubs change forward traction?

Thanks

Paul

Hengfook

Try this for your pins:-

HUDY #10 6000 tool set Pin Replacement Tool (for 3mm Pins)

Miller_Time

iTrader: (11)

That does help - thanks!

I might have my first race with the Mugen tonight, looking forward to this.

rstnboy

iTrader: (36)

I had the same issue as you when I first got my MBX6, which was the first generation. One of the local Mugen drivers advised me to go to a 5-5-5 diff setup, go softer on the sway bars and shock springs, and move the rear hubs forward. I also changed tires to "bow-fighters" and this total combination locked in the tail end of my car. If yours is fromt he upgraded edition, you already have the softer sway bars.

Your first, and probably most effective, tuning option is tires. See what the local fast guys are running and it will give you an idea of what works.

aaron2u

iTrader: (75)

Thanks for the input guys... I'm off to the track to try some different setups out and get some wheel time!

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Mugen pins are readily available and its what i use.


total waste of 100$...Ebay has a 35$ chain breaker that does the job nicely and requires Zero tools aside from the breaker to get the job done.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Great - can you please post the part# for the mugen pins (that kinda was my initial question, I've gone through the part list but couldn't find it) as well as a link to the ebay tool that'd do the job? No way I'll spend $100 indeed as this buys me plenty of cvd bones and I think Juraj has plenty enough money like this already

I believe there was a (heated) thread on this last week but I can't seem to be able to find it anymore.

thanks
Paul

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Ill help ya Lone...No worries.


Mugen pins

13mm for wheels
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...13mm-Joint-Pin

12mm for center's
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...28mm-Joint-Pin


as for the breaker.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motor...motiveQ5fTools



Dont let the owner of one of these specific tools tell you that this will break or kill you in the process...he's FULL of himself and is trying to push his product and Nothing more....Ive been using this tool for over 2 year's and have had nothing but ease of use and a lot of question's form other racer's as to where i got it.