Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

Thanks, got it out and worked it out

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

sweeeet

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

That's a common problem. I've heard several fixes: King Headz quick change mount with the exteneded "finger" to the gas tank post to reinforce the chassis... got that, still had a problem. I understand you have to run the mesh a little sloppier than most buggies due to flex there... even with the King Headz mount.

I got frustrated and flipped the mount to move the motor, used a "regular" clutchbell that is shorter. Problem SEEMS to be solved now... but then again I'm running the mesh a little sloppy.

BTW you are lucky in a way... better $2 worth of bearings than $18 worth of clutch bell. (I went through 2 bells last weekend and 1 this weekend before deciding to change it as described... so $54 + $6 for bearings since I wasn't gonna try running the bells on the bearings where the previous one failed... $60 in 2 weeks... yikes)

GREGORY!

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys!i have put the 8's shocks in my mbx5r and because they are shorter from the mugen's i need the 2 little plastics that used in the 8T arms.[the rear suspension arm stundoff]they are inqluding with the rears arms but i don't need them.does anyone have any and don't need them?
Any help please!

Camberlink

ok guys i am having trouble here and can't seem to get it figured out. I am fairly new to my 8ight and the last time i did any racing was back when 1/10 scale electric ruled the world. That being said the rear end of my 8ight won't stay planted in the corner. My turn in is awesome but trying to come out of the corner the rear end kicks out and almost (or does) spins me out. I am running the links in the 2-A position, and i have the adjustable rear hinge pin brace so i can change to what ever. I am running 7-5-2 diff oil and 3 degrees negative camber. i really wanna plant the rear end better from the middle out of the corner any ideas?

jimbal

Did you check your ride height in the rear. Depending on the track conditions it should be set around 29mm and the front at 27mm. Also check your shock length for the rear. 160.5mm is a good start. What sway bar are you running?

Camberlink

i am running the black sway bar and i will have to check my ride height again i think i had it set at 30mm

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

The small silver bar will help.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

try the smaller sway bar in the rear. if that dosent help go to the b hole on the rear hub. Also run -2 up front and -1 in the rear for camber.

BRETTMASTERJ

iTrader: (21)

is it worth it to get the king headz extended engine mount instead of the non extended?

jimbal

Go with the small, silver, sway bar and drop your ride height to 29mm to 28mm.

SteveJa

iTrader: (17)

question about the slop in the hex's. has anyone put washers behind the wheel hex to take the slop out? does it work? and what shims are you using ?


thanks

SteveJa

iTrader: (17)

having problems with the servo saver. It seems that after I get it set and run it for a bit, the servo saver get tighter? almost to the point where you think it is locked up.... but after I rebuild it, it is fine. I am using the 8t spring and have the aluminum servo saver. the best thing i can do to fix it is buy new plastic parts, but that gets old and $$$ after awhile.


thanks

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Kyosho makes a 8x10 kit with .1 .2 and .3's But u have to be careful to not jarr up the bearing as that will cause it to fail even faster.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

are u using loctite ? it should'nt move if u are.