air8

iTrader: (7)

Try to dremel a slot in the head of the screws. I had a RTR once upon a time with the two aluminum shoe setup and after a gallon of use almost everything was siezed together. I had to cut the clutch spring screws in half and use pliers to twist/remove them out the front and then push the other half out the back of the flywheel. Also some have been able to grab the head of the screw with a set of pliers and twist/remove. Good Luck.

When going back with the clutch pins use a small amount of loctite and don't overtighten the screws. Snug the screw and maybe go 1/8 turn more.

Furadi

im running the plastics. I don't think you need aluminum unless your on a very smooth track.

captain america

iTrader: (12)

"Right now is the worst time to switch! Kyosho & Jammin among many others, are about to come out with new cars due to the Worlds event. Who ever your friends are that told you the Associated is more forgiving should seriously have their head examined. Athletic and precise?..... Yes. Forgiving?..... Hell No."

I wholeheartedly agree, Tex. Despite that, I still want to try other teams' goodies, and so here's a shameless plug for my 8ight roller :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=217846

Lars Johnson

iTrader: (5)

Kool New Stuff!!

LOSA3553 - Front/Rear HD Lightened Outdrives

LOSA3554 - Center HD Lightened Diff Outdrives

LOSA7730 - Buggy Molded Inserts. I've heard these are pretty dialed

vlad_vy

Loctite in a kit is red loctite (strong), don't use it. Use blue loctite.

Try to heat up screws, for example by high power soldering iron (100W or more). Spraying for cleaning, it's for better grip.

supralative

iTrader: (16)

slot didnt work
time to go cut crazy hahahaa

i will probably get a whole new clutch set up to be honest along with the spur gear too

long wear shoes with silver springs all around sound good????
the previous owner here had aluminum shoes with silver springs
all around it looks like

Nay0k

iTrader: (1)

The 8ight requires the driver to be very patient and very easy on the car. Although I'm sure anybody could tune any car close to how they want it to feel, the 8ight obviously favors this type of driving style.

Let me put it this way: last Sunday was the season opener at a track a few hours away from us. During qualifying I drove very relaxed, rarely went full throttle and was very easy on the steering. I TQ'ed over a field of 65 or so other cars, even against Losi/Kyosho/other manufacturers factory drivers. (I'm only a privateer)

During the main I found I had to make up alot of time and started really pushing the car. Full throttle, flicking the wheel on the radio all the way, that kind of stuff. I fell to the back of the pack quickly and got so frustrated I pulled the car off the track. I think I finished 11th overall.

The point is, again, that you need to be relaxed and in control of this car, rather than "fight" against it which is what some people find with cars such as the Kyosho, Mugen, Jammin etc.

I don't think the guys you mentioned gave the car enough time, though.

Nik

iTrader: (1)

for the airfilters, it it better to oil both the inner and the outer or just the inner?

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

both

Integra

iTrader: (8)

i do just the inner.

ALJR

iTrader: (10)

I oil the inner w/ foam filter oil and the outer w/ a light oil like after run (mystery oil). Outer is squeezed out... I replace the outer after every qual. and the inner is spotless...

sleek the elite

My Soldering Iron wasn't hot enough, but I managed to get them using the heat gun

vlad_vy

Be careful, don't melt any plastic parts on the chassis. Soldering iron makes more concentrated heat up, heat gun makes wider heat up.

You can try to place couple drops of acetone in each hole from engine side and seal them by scotch. Wait several hours and try to screw out.

soccerlaw

iTrader: (24)

I have the same issue as above on my brand new 8T race roller. It seems like there are quite a few people with the same issue, but no real resolution. Somebody mentioned sanding down the bearing inserts, but not sure (a) whether to do both the rear bearing inserts, (b) how much to sand off and (c) why I should have to be sanding a new car. Some people said it's normal but it sounds and feels like the diff and pinion gears are just not meshing up right at all. Clunky sound and feel. Not just the sound of new gears on new gears.

Also, I have tried the aluminum replacement bearing inserts but they make it even worse.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

air8

iTrader: (7)

The pinion coupler from the rear center driveshaft needs to be moved as far back as possible on the pinion shaft. The coupler has a little raised portion that is supposed to ride near the bearing for the rear pinion. The rear diff needs to be taken out so you can push the pinion gear forward and then attach the pinion coupler to the pinion shaft from the outside of the diff case. It doesn't need to be smashed against the bearing.....it just needs to be up against the bearing.


Also if these are new vehicles run them for several tanks and they will free up. This question is brought up about every two weeks on this thread. if you read back a few pages you will see how many times it gets asked. LOL. So you don't have anything to worry about. Enjoy the truck.