Walt

iTrader: (2)

I'm looking for more mid-corner and on-power steering out of my 8ight on a tight clay track. Actually, the off-power steering is probably lacking too, but I can correct that with some brakes and the rear-brake bias I've got in the car.

Anyway, I have some question about the tuning advice at the back of the manual.

First, regarding droop. The wording is confusing to me. The manual says to 'tighten the screws to increase the droop height (less travel).' Then it says 'More droop in the front has more on-power steering... more 'travel' in the rear increases rear traction and off power steering.'

It seems to me that 'droop' and 'travel' are opposite each other (more droop = less travel) according to their definition, but then they go on to use droop and travel interchangeably and in a way that makes them sound like they move in the same direction (more droop = more travel). And why would more rear traction increase steering?

I always thought more droop = more travel (suspension can 'droop' more). But I can see where more 'droop height' would be less travel, but more 'droop' is more travel.

Am I the only idiot confused by this wording? Probably yes.

Someone tell me, for more on-power steering, do I want more or less suspension travel in the front (which way to turn the droop screws)?

Next, diff tuning. Which diffs should I tune to get more on-power and mid-turn steering, and in which direction do I tune?

I'm thinking that going thicker in the center will help. The manual says thicker in the front will help also, but that one doesn't seem as intuitive to me. I'm not sure what to do to the rear, if anything, to move in the direction I want to go.

I've got pretty much the stock setup on the car now, and it's a one-tire track, so I know I've got the tires right (everyone uses Panther Switch 2.0s, even the Proline-sponsored guys).

satoch

Walt, just follow my set up and your 8ight will be as good as it gets for LH. Feel free to introduce yourself on Sunday.

Walt

iTrader: (2)

I think I'm racing electric on Saturday this weekend, but I might run some practice there tonight if the wife lets me out of the house.

brad996

iTrader: (11)

some of this stuff is confusing to me to I just try to break it down to weight transfer like this

Less travel = less weight transfer(turn droop screw IN)

More travel = more weight transfer (turn droop screw out )

so think of you droop screws as travel limiter just like putting washers inside the shocks

for example (less travel droop screw IN) the front will keep more weight on the front tires and should give it more on power steering and less rear traction because the front will not allow as much weight to transfer to the rear tires

(more travel droop screw OUT) in the rear will give the car more off power steering

diffs
front-thicker in the front the car will tend to pull its self around more more on power steering less off power thinner will do the oppsite

center- thicker will make the car hit harder when on power front and rear will be more like a solid drive shaft thinner will be oppsite

Rear- thicker = less steering from the rear thinner will be oppsite

I have always run my diffs with 5000 front 7000 center 2000 rear seems to work well where I race and the Drake setup seems to work everywhere maybe a good setup to start with I also play around with swaybars alot at the track they can be a big help and are easy to change

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

Walt (and Leisure Raceway peeps).

Be afraid...my 8ight RTR will be here next week. So I'll have to figure out the whole charge rate, discharge, fuel, glow plug, ESC thing out

My plan is to move the 590 to the throttle, use a KO 2123 I have extra for steering and ditch the stock Spektrum radio for my Helios. Let me know when you and Eric will be around for a nitro day. I'll need you guys to walk me through the engine break-in, and throttle end points thing set up on the servo....tubing or something you change.

Would the shock towers be the first thing to replace or get some of the alum hingepin braces instead?

A.C

iTrader: (1)

what is your set up tips for the 8ight T?

satoch

Sorry, don't run truggy-too much of a hackfest!

JRRobiso

Things you may want to change on your RTR.

1. Shock towers (change to Kit/Roller towers F/R)
2. Shock top caps (same also)

Hope this helps.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

yea thanks.

working on it now. got the rear already for $8 nib. I know it's the RTR engine but I just want to know that the 427 won't be getting smoked at the track. Eventually I will upgrade to a .21 but want to learn nitro tuning on that engine.

satoch

The 427 is overkill. You should probably run a 14t bell to tame it down.

tdeal823

iTrader: (30)

the rtr comes with a 14t bell on it. it works good. I see a few of them at the local tracks the mach rtr mill runs right with the good 21's it just drinks the fuel. the 14t bell offsets the fact of high torque and low rpm. with the rtr chassis you will want to run a bit looser gear mesh as the rtr chassis flexes more than the pro chassis.
shock caps are a must and so are the correct f/r springs with the right oil in the shocks. the rtr setup it terrible.
diffs have greese in them you will want to swap to oil. start with 5/6/2 thats a good place to start.

RETRO RC

hey guys just a quick question

what brakes (pads and discs) are people running out there on the 8b and 8t
as I'm finding the stock brakes seem to glaze pretty quickly

also how often your changing pads-discs

TIA Adrian

air8

iTrader: (7)

I still run the stock pads that came with my buggy. I clean with brake clean and sand paper every gallon or so. 13 gallons on them so far and they will still pull down hard if set up too tight. Every time I go back together I set it a little too tight and have to back off. So the stock pads do great for me.

satoch

I only changed the stock brake discs when the center hole got sloppy. As for the glazing, I clean them with brake cleaner ocassionally but for the most part I leave them alone. They brake plenty hard when dirty.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

Fiberglass discs are easy to keep like new. When they glaze over, just take some 600 grit wet dry sand paper, spray some motor spray on it, and rub away until the paper is dry. This gets rid of any glazing but doesn't take off much material. You will want to double check your pad setting just in case though. I needed to tighten up just a touch once after 5 or 6 times.