Losi 8ight building and setup
08-16-2007, 06:05 PM
#4861
Thank's Tex see ya tues.
(btw) Are you doing the Futaba Challenge?
(btw) Are you doing the Futaba Challenge?
08-16-2007, 06:46 PM
#4862
Just a quick question for you guys, Will Proline velocity wheels fit my Losi 8ight? Going to buy some premounted tyres and wanted to make sure they are a bolt up, on amainhobbies website they list nearly every other car except the Losi 8ight as compatible, thought there might be a reason behind this... Thanks guys.
08-16-2007, 06:50 PM
#4863
i havent run into any problems running any of the aftermarket manufactures rims on my losi 8ight. i belive any 17mm wheel work on the 8ight. panther, grp and proline make some of the best tire and wheel set ups for the 8ight.
08-16-2007, 07:10 PM
#4864
They will fit. No worries..
08-16-2007, 08:07 PM
#4866
Suspended
iTrader: (16)
well nib #1 went thru 2 thrt servos tonight. the stock Speky Z270, and a twin JR Z270 i had for backup. the one burnt on him last night, but he thought it was a failsafe. after putting in my JR, it lasted about 10 or 15 minutes.
had the EPAs well adjusted on the radio. ended up putting in a Traxxassssss 2055 that he had laying around that was in good shape. ran it for a tank and it was so far so good.
the other nib got 4 new driveshafts for his 8, and replaced all the stockers. so far so good, went thru around 5 or 6 tanks tonight without dog bone issue.
i guess everything else is pretty good so far otherwise.
anyone have a proven, near plausable theory on the steering servos burning up, other being to weak to begin with. kind of surprising really everything seems to be set up well.
Timmahh
had the EPAs well adjusted on the radio. ended up putting in a Traxxassssss 2055 that he had laying around that was in good shape. ran it for a tank and it was so far so good.
the other nib got 4 new driveshafts for his 8, and replaced all the stockers. so far so good, went thru around 5 or 6 tanks tonight without dog bone issue.
i guess everything else is pretty good so far otherwise.
anyone have a proven, near plausable theory on the steering servos burning up, other being to weak to begin with. kind of surprising really everything seems to be set up well.
Timmahh
08-16-2007, 08:31 PM
#4867
TIMMAH
I had the same problem 2-270's and 2-590's all during brake in. After the first one I had somebody else look things over no problems there. Spektrum then sent me 2-8800t 's, going on two gallons since no problems. I beleive on the RTR they are entirely to weak for what my opinion is worth.
08-16-2007, 09:22 PM
#4868
well nib #1 went thru 2 thrt servos tonight. the stock Speky Z270, and a twin JR Z270 i had for backup. the one burnt on him last night, but he thought it was a failsafe. after putting in my JR, it lasted about 10 or 15 minutes.
had the EPAs well adjusted on the radio. ended up putting in a Traxxassssss 2055 that he had laying around that was in good shape. ran it for a tank and it was so far so good.
the other nib got 4 new driveshafts for his 8, and replaced all the stockers. so far so good, went thru around 5 or 6 tanks tonight without dog bone issue.
i guess everything else is pretty good so far otherwise.
anyone have a proven, near plausable theory on the steering servos burning up, other being to weak to begin with. kind of surprising really everything seems to be set up well.
Timmahh
had the EPAs well adjusted on the radio. ended up putting in a Traxxassssss 2055 that he had laying around that was in good shape. ran it for a tank and it was so far so good.
the other nib got 4 new driveshafts for his 8, and replaced all the stockers. so far so good, went thru around 5 or 6 tanks tonight without dog bone issue.
i guess everything else is pretty good so far otherwise.
anyone have a proven, near plausable theory on the steering servos burning up, other being to weak to begin with. kind of surprising really everything seems to be set up well.
Timmahh
Does your car have the O-rings under the back radio tray mount? That's the first thing if not.
08-17-2007, 06:02 AM
#4869
Wow!!!!
Alright already! I'm calling shinanigans! The guys that are telling you to run orings under your radio tray are off the reservation.
The 270 and other low end servos in RTRs just plain suck in the 8ight. Any little stain what so ever and they burn them selves up trying to recorrect.
Get you a Futaba S9451, Ace servo or JR Highend servo and you will be fine.
I prefer the Futabas.
On the 8ight the carb is at a weired angle, the RTR is not shimmed right to keep the actuating rod level.
Use rubber grommets on your servo's ears.
Put a peice of fuel tubing between the horn and your pulling coller like you have on your brakes. Overtravel will be absorbed by the fuel tubing.
Make sure your carb is smooth and straight as possible.
Make sure your EPAs are good.
Rebind your radio to its neutral setting.
Put in a good servo.
Do not put orings under your radio tray! That is what the fuel tubing is for.
If you are at full speed and flex the chassis when it is WOT, this is where the carb stops traveling and the fuel tubing keeps from pulling on the servo.
I have been running well over a year now without a single servo problem and I race and practice 3 or more times a week. I have my 3rd chassis on my first car and I just bought another one for parts.
No problems.
TEX
Off my soap box.
The 270 and other low end servos in RTRs just plain suck in the 8ight. Any little stain what so ever and they burn them selves up trying to recorrect.
Get you a Futaba S9451, Ace servo or JR Highend servo and you will be fine.
I prefer the Futabas.
On the 8ight the carb is at a weired angle, the RTR is not shimmed right to keep the actuating rod level.
Use rubber grommets on your servo's ears.
Put a peice of fuel tubing between the horn and your pulling coller like you have on your brakes. Overtravel will be absorbed by the fuel tubing.
Make sure your carb is smooth and straight as possible.
Make sure your EPAs are good.
Rebind your radio to its neutral setting.
Put in a good servo.
Do not put orings under your radio tray! That is what the fuel tubing is for.
If you are at full speed and flex the chassis when it is WOT, this is where the carb stops traveling and the fuel tubing keeps from pulling on the servo.
I have been running well over a year now without a single servo problem and I race and practice 3 or more times a week. I have my 3rd chassis on my first car and I just bought another one for parts.
No problems.
TEX
Off my soap box.
08-17-2007, 06:54 AM
#4870
Suspended
iTrader: (16)
Good info Tex! thanx. i was wondering about the Oring, sounds lke it was being used as a flexable shim. but to me it sounda abit wonky. i ll grab some fuel line and install it. i wondered if that would help.
i know servos suck basically. but my JR 270 we installed has been in 3 or 4 other cars (steerign on a TMaxx for a few months no issue< believe that one< throt duty on my CEN CT5 and my Jammin for a week without issue. but it didnt last 10 mins in the 8. and that was after a 20 minute tweaking of the EPAs and checking all the linkages for binding/smoothness of operation, alignment ect..
i know servos suck basically. but my JR 270 we installed has been in 3 or 4 other cars (steerign on a TMaxx for a few months no issue< believe that one< throt duty on my CEN CT5 and my Jammin for a week without issue. but it didnt last 10 mins in the 8. and that was after a 20 minute tweaking of the EPAs and checking all the linkages for binding/smoothness of operation, alignment ect..
08-17-2007, 09:38 AM
#4871
Shiananigins!!
08-17-2007, 11:36 AM
#4872
The oring under the battery compartment is BS...Fuel tubing on the servo is what it takes. +1 for Tex
I did blow another 2 servos this last weekend (throttle AND steering) but its not the 8ts fault or my fault (suuuuuuuure...) Actually for some reason my 3pks switched to HRS mode...I dont own ANY digital servos, so I know better, plus I only run 1 vehicle so I am not changing models or trasmission modes...ugh
Oh well its a good thing, Ive been meaning to pick up a JR 9000S and T plus 2 spares... It seems my Airtronics 358s have some slop and I am just ready to try something different. They have served me well and I would buy these servos over again.
I did blow another 2 servos this last weekend (throttle AND steering) but its not the 8ts fault or my fault (suuuuuuuure...) Actually for some reason my 3pks switched to HRS mode...I dont own ANY digital servos, so I know better, plus I only run 1 vehicle so I am not changing models or trasmission modes...ugh
Oh well its a good thing, Ive been meaning to pick up a JR 9000S and T plus 2 spares... It seems my Airtronics 358s have some slop and I am just ready to try something different. They have served me well and I would buy these servos over again.
08-17-2007, 12:52 PM
#4873
The oring under the battery compartment is BS...Fuel tubing on the servo is what it takes. +1 for Tex
I did blow another 2 servos this last weekend (throttle AND steering) but its not the 8ts fault or my fault (suuuuuuuure...) Actually for some reason my 3pks switched to HRS mode...I dont own ANY digital servos, so I know better, plus I only run 1 vehicle so I am not changing models or trasmission modes...ugh Oh well its a good thing, Ive been meaning to pick up a JR 9000S and T plus 2 spares... It seems my Airtronics 358s have some slop and I am just ready to try something different. They have served me well and I would buy these servos over again.
I did blow another 2 servos this last weekend (throttle AND steering) but its not the 8ts fault or my fault (suuuuuuuure...) Actually for some reason my 3pks switched to HRS mode...I dont own ANY digital servos, so I know better, plus I only run 1 vehicle so I am not changing models or trasmission modes...ugh
Oh well its a good thing, Ive been meaning to pick up a JR 9000S and T plus 2 spares... It seems my Airtronics 358s have some slop and I am just ready to try something different. They have served me well and I would buy these servos over again.
08-17-2007, 01:10 PM
#4874
Haha, ya don't have them yet....Soon very soon...
I have a quick maintenance question: Is there an easy way to remove the front diff for maintenance without removing the steering assembly also? With the back it is just 10 screws plus loosening the 2 rollbar screws. I am just tired of taking the steering rack off only to have the bearings fall out or lose them. Also you have the top plate (5 screws)....I dont mind so much as the time it takes... Luckily I've never been in a bind before a race to change the diff case or diff oil...
I have a quick maintenance question: Is there an easy way to remove the front diff for maintenance without removing the steering assembly also? With the back it is just 10 screws plus loosening the 2 rollbar screws. I am just tired of taking the steering rack off only to have the bearings fall out or lose them. Also you have the top plate (5 screws)....I dont mind so much as the time it takes... Luckily I've never been in a bind before a race to change the diff case or diff oil...
08-17-2007, 02:11 PM
#4875
There is a small spacer under between the top plate and rear of the diff case (it even has a little grab handle). Remove the spacer and you can get the diff case out without disturbing the steering assembly or even removing the top plate.