Losi 8ight building and setup
#1951
Tech Rookie
can anybody help me
Can anybody help me with my questions on the other page 65 about the swaybar. Thanks
#1952
8
just got this lid from ebay by rcbodz
#1953
Does anybody know if Pro-Line tires mount up to the Losi wheels without problems?
#1954
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Josh
Originally Posted by JOSH K
Hey guys I asked some new questions above like, when do I know when I need ot adjust my swaybar, what I am trying to say is like what simptoms will I see and what do I need to adjust front or rear like what track conditions will i see it in. And I have a nother question how to I adjust antisquat. Thanks you guys again.
IMO - Stay with the mediums until you get used to the broader adjustments.
Droop - When you hold your car off the table, look at it from the side. When you are holding the chassis level the rear tires should be extended more than the front tires. Make sure they are even from side to side. To best do this just use wheels without rubber mounted.
Antisquat is adjusted by changing the back pin retaining plate. 3T - 3A is what I run. When the traction is real high I run 2T - 3A. This is a toe adjustment. If you adjust the A side it is antisquat. More antisquat is better in the rough and provides more forward bite. Less antisquat is better on the smooth and provides more side bite. This is a medium adjustment that is mostly driver preference.
Good Luck!
TEX
#1955
ok time to stock up on extra parts before the season starts. i guess i will need clutch bearings for sure. my question to you is, what parts are you breaking that i should have in my parts box?
#1957
starter box 7.2 convertions
hay guys has anyone converted a starter box from 12volt to 2x 7.2 batterys if so how can i do it the starter box i have is a Qworld true start box ?
#1958
nice paint job buckeye looks cool
#1959
Originally Posted by robsxxxs
ok time to stock up on extra parts before the season starts. i guess i will need clutch bearings for sure. my question to you is, what parts are you breaking that i should have in my parts box?
That's really all I've seen consitantly on all the 8ights on track. Sure some have broke an arm here, a hub there. But many folks I've seen haven't broken the plastic parts, that you normally keep in your 1/8 spare parts box. Seems everyone I know has bent a rear out hinge pin...
#1960
Originally Posted by sepirts
rear outer hinge pins. The lunsford pins aren't any better. So, save your money and get a few spare losi pins. You can straighten them a few times before you toss them out.
That's really all I've seen consitantly on all the 8ights on track. Sure some have broke an arm here, a hub there. But many folks I've seen haven't broken the plastic parts, that you normally keep in your 1/8 spare parts box. Seems everyone I know has bent a rear out hinge pin...
That's really all I've seen consitantly on all the 8ights on track. Sure some have broke an arm here, a hub there. But many folks I've seen haven't broken the plastic parts, that you normally keep in your 1/8 spare parts box. Seems everyone I know has bent a rear out hinge pin...
#1961
Tech Rookie
Thanks TEX
Originally Posted by tex1
Sway bars are tricky. They are actually minor adjustments that favor more of how the car is in the corners. Thicker sway bars in the rear will increase steering and allow the car to rotate more. Thicker sway bar in the front will provide more on power steering and less off power steering.
IMO - Stay with the mediums until you get used to the broader adjustments.
Droop - When you hold your car off the table, look at it from the side. When you are holding the chassis level the rear tires should be extended more than the front tires. Make sure they are even from side to side. To best do this just use wheels without rubber mounted.
Antisquat is adjusted by changing the back pin retaining plate. 3T - 3A is what I run. When the traction is real high I run 2T - 3A. This is a toe adjustment. If you adjust the A side it is antisquat. More antisquat is better in the rough and provides more forward bite. Less antisquat is better on the smooth and provides more side bite. This is a medium adjustment that is mostly driver preference.
Good Luck!
TEX
IMO - Stay with the mediums until you get used to the broader adjustments.
Droop - When you hold your car off the table, look at it from the side. When you are holding the chassis level the rear tires should be extended more than the front tires. Make sure they are even from side to side. To best do this just use wheels without rubber mounted.
Antisquat is adjusted by changing the back pin retaining plate. 3T - 3A is what I run. When the traction is real high I run 2T - 3A. This is a toe adjustment. If you adjust the A side it is antisquat. More antisquat is better in the rough and provides more forward bite. Less antisquat is better on the smooth and provides more side bite. This is a medium adjustment that is mostly driver preference.
Good Luck!
TEX
#1962
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Rotating excessivly going in can be a number of things. If all else is good, tune sway bars by decreasing steering. That is stiffen the front sway bar.
You can lighten the rear sway bar to allow more side bite when the rear suspension unloads going into the turn. This will take away forward bite.
Check your breaks to make sure they are not locking up. When the fronts do not lock and the rears and the rears do it will be rotation city.
If you are running the stock setup, go to green springs in the front. This will help prevent the car from rotating on its nose.
Adjust the chassis' ride height to have the rear a little lower than the front.
This will make the car smoother.
Take some EPA out of the steering. You can use dual rate if you have it.
Try a less aggressive tire.
These are some ideas.
TEX
<---- we are not done yet.
You can lighten the rear sway bar to allow more side bite when the rear suspension unloads going into the turn. This will take away forward bite.
Check your breaks to make sure they are not locking up. When the fronts do not lock and the rears and the rears do it will be rotation city.
If you are running the stock setup, go to green springs in the front. This will help prevent the car from rotating on its nose.
Adjust the chassis' ride height to have the rear a little lower than the front.
This will make the car smoother.
Take some EPA out of the steering. You can use dual rate if you have it.
Try a less aggressive tire.
These are some ideas.
TEX
<---- we are not done yet.
#1963
Some questions answered
Josh K: Tex1 gave a nice explanation. To measure Droop you will need a digital caliper. They are not too expensive and you will use it a lot with the 8ight. Droop is measured from the center of the top screw of the shock to the center of the btm shock screw (shock tower to arm). On the Drake set up sheet it is 95mm front and 106mm in the rear. Page 37 of 8ight manual.
Droop: Adjust the front and rear droop by adjusting the front / rear down stop screws. Tighten the screws to increase the droop height (less travel). Loosen the screws to decrease the droop height. (more travel). Less droop in the front has less on power steering and is better for small bumps. Less droop in the rear has less off-power steering. More droop in the front has more on power steering and will be better on rough tracks. More travel in the rear increases rear traction and off power steering. This is very important. Associated makes a great ride height gauge. I usually use a small mm ruler. 27mm in the front and 29mm in the rear. Ride height changes everything. Page 38 in the 8ight manual gives the best explanation for use of sway bars.
Sway Bars: Thinner front sway bar increases front traction off power, but has less on power steering. Thicker front sway bar decrease front traction off-power making the steering smoother entering the turn, but has more on power steering. Thinner rear sway bar increase rear traction and decreases on power steering. Thicker rear sway bar increases stability in the middle of the turn and increases on power steering. Thicker sway bars are more stable on high speed, high traction tracks.
We use the Drake set and dont really ever change it. I hope this helps. The 8ight is an amazing Buggy.
Droop: Adjust the front and rear droop by adjusting the front / rear down stop screws. Tighten the screws to increase the droop height (less travel). Loosen the screws to decrease the droop height. (more travel). Less droop in the front has less on power steering and is better for small bumps. Less droop in the rear has less off-power steering. More droop in the front has more on power steering and will be better on rough tracks. More travel in the rear increases rear traction and off power steering. This is very important. Associated makes a great ride height gauge. I usually use a small mm ruler. 27mm in the front and 29mm in the rear. Ride height changes everything. Page 38 in the 8ight manual gives the best explanation for use of sway bars.
Sway Bars: Thinner front sway bar increases front traction off power, but has less on power steering. Thicker front sway bar decrease front traction off-power making the steering smoother entering the turn, but has more on power steering. Thinner rear sway bar increase rear traction and decreases on power steering. Thicker rear sway bar increases stability in the middle of the turn and increases on power steering. Thicker sway bars are more stable on high speed, high traction tracks.
We use the Drake set and dont really ever change it. I hope this helps. The 8ight is an amazing Buggy.
#1964
I got a O.S. Max 21VZ-B V-Spec-T for my 8ight. My question is is the o.s. P3 plug the only one i can use or is there something else i can use?
#1965
Tech Rookie