The new car is supposedly going to ship before the new year and I would expect the towers and the arms to be close behind that. (Always trust the 'Two weeks' theory lol)
Keep in mind if you want to use the new towers you're going to need the new shock bodies as well to get the travel back.

No worries I get it! I miss the glory days of RCTech but the convenience of FB groups has made it less desirable sadly. As for things you can do to maximize the performance of the standard chassis (or what I had luck with) was adding weight to the rear of the car. I usually started with 15g in front of the C plate and then usually ended up with 30g. The bellow setup is one I used just before the RWB chassis came out. I like the rear carbon tower, to me it keeps the rear end flatter I definitely recommend people try one. The 8 hole pistons I have on the sheet ARE NOT the fastest pistons but man are they super easy to drive in all conditions, but the six and five hole variants that Kurt and Spencer recommend are faster 90% of the time.
Some things I would change knowing what I know now though would be drop the front and rear spring down to white fronts and black rears, front shock tower location would be moved to 3, change caster shim to 1.0mm, change the A block to middle, shock length on the rear to 127mm, decrease rear camber down to -2°, and change the LRC plate to middle middle (2° anti squat), and last but not least i would move the upper front arms to have as much upward angle as possible (Up and out on the tower, down and out on the back)
Hope this helps you guys, I'll try to check back later today if you guys have questions. If not I'll snag them in the morning.

I have the 30g weight in the rear as well. Thanks for the recommendations. Also running skid plates which probably adds another combined 10g.

Which skid plates are you running?

DHawk racing.

This is strictly my personal experience but skip plates usually have a pretty drastic handling effect on a car. While they do save the chassis, which is great, they have a lot of down sides to them. For starters (Guessing at the thickness) on the rear you loose close to 3-4mm of ride height for landing clearance as well as bump clearance. The other thing that I found to be scary was in regard to the front one, again it does a great job of saving the front kickup portion but I found it caused a premature banana in the chassis (Again takes away ride height so jump transitions bumps etc). I'm not saying not to use them but just be mindful of them.

Anyone know where to get carbon fiber side guards for the RC8B4e? I know you can put the nitro ones on but don’t want to change the body hoping someone makes the narrow guards for ebuggy.

Also racing_jason do you have a set up sheet using the RWB chassis for medium grip tracks?

As far as I'm aware the only ever made the carbon side guards for the nitro buggy variant.

The bellow is my most recent setup that I used at one of our regional races here in the NW. Main thing I change anymore for grip is the rear camber and then also the rear diff fluid. Also note this event was ran in cooler temps then most so take that into consideration if you copy the shock package. These tracks are similar to the RaceTime events (Indoors in arenas) but this setup I ran on several outdoor tracks that would be considered 'low-med' grip tracks only change was l would run -2.5° camber.

Can you elaborate a bit more on the premature bending of the chassis? Didn't know skid plates would do that. I'm guessing it catching on more things causes that, or is it hard landings on the front plate spreads the shock differently that hurts the rest of the car?

It could have just been a fluke, but when I was running them the kickup would become exaggerated. there are a million things that could of caused it absolutely, but to my best guess it was the premature impact at the front on landing and the transition of the jumps.

Ive always used the DE Racing skid plates and have never had any kind of issue. Maybe because they are plastic..

I didn't think about plastic. Its probably more forgiving.

What is the advantage of shorter shocks and towers besides CG? What makes the new front and drive shafts better then the 4.0

I had plenty for my B3.1 than fit my T4 so it appears the newer B4-T4 gear boxes have the same screw hole patern.

So on top of the bonus of a lower CG (which is always a great thing on a race car) is we are currently running longer shafts in the front and rear then what stock is to get the piston closer to the top of the shock body. This creates more natural pack for the shock. So by going to shorter bodies we can run shorter shafts and achieve the same thing that we have been achieving but we save some weight (and some oil on rebuilds )
As for the new drive shafts going to the universals will make the car have more while cornering. universals dont have the natural bind (it's not a bad thing always) of the CV joint. Overall the universals provide more lateral grip feeling and a more forgiving ride through the rough stuff, at the cost of a little forward drive. You'll find this new rendition of the car likes to be soft as you can see with the kit spring being pink in the rear.
Hope that answers your questions

Jason do you think the average sportsman racer will be able to tell a difference between the RC8B4 shock package and that of the new 4.1? Just don’t want to waste money upgrading to this if in the end it’s really not going to help.