racing_jason

Not right away or at least we have seen no signs of any shorter springs or anything like that. Now we just don't have to crank the collars down as far

racing_jason

Manual is finally up on the website, lots of small little pieces i have found as i've been building my kit. A major focus was to lighten the car up in small subtle ways.

RC8B4.1 Manual (Nitro)

Derr429

iTrader: (3)

What all has changed? Just the parts that are on the list or is there other things that you have found?

racing_jason

It's going to be all small things that are not listed as you have stated. But things like shorter diff screws were noticed, shocks built identical just with less oil (make sure you note that the front uses the +0 shock ends where the rear uses the +4 shock end)
I'll make more progress this weekend in between the honey do list and while watching the Chili Bowl

Fearo

What does the new outside hole on the rear arms do to the handling of the car?

racing_jason

It changes the leverage the arm has on the shock, in turn we are running a really soft rear spring (notice the kit comes with the softest spring we offer. This provides a much more forgiving rear end of the car and less likely to have that snap oversteer effect.

I've made it through the majority of the kit now, overall nice easy build nothing really caused me any issues out of the normal build cycle. As mentioned before small changes.
Front arms no longer have the recessed pocket in the bottom of the arm (easier cleaning) I'll be curious to see this is a change for the soft arms only or if its carried over to the medium arms as well.
some of the BHCS have no been changed to SHCS which is nice as you are far less likely to strip them out.
The new rear hubs are going to be a big improvement, no longer have the insert on the rear hub for the pin height but now two separate hubs. The Hole heights are now labeled for us, 0, 2.2, 4.5 so confusion on which hole height should be reduced.
The rear hub no longer uses a flanged bearing.
Previously the front and rear gear boxes were attached to the chassis via 2 M4x20 and 2 M4x12mm screws, now the 12mm screws have been replaced with 14mm screws.
On the diffs i did find that on the ring side the bearing would rub on the gear side so i ended up putting a shim behind the bearing to get it off the face of the ring gear. I used these Shim Set, they work also on the axles to get rid of any excessive play. (If you use these one of these behind the bearing you will only need two shims instead total instead of 3 when you put the diff inside the gearbox)

Happy Monday

richard.bratton

iTrader: (4)

I finished my build over the weekend. Everything went together well with no bind in the suspension. Can't wait to test drive.

racing_jason

For those of you that hadn't seen yet, the team has some setups up. Here
They also go an editable setup sheet for us that wanna keep track. Really nice update and covers all the adjustments available currently to the 4 platform.
Lee's setup you can build right out of the box (Minus the VRP 20 holes), The C plate you can achieve the same 2° anti squat by running center down on the kit c block. He did go back to a 46t Spur gear but that was for the crazy long straight that was at SIC.
Spencers car is a little more unique reverting back to the HTC gears front and rear (Should be similar to the 12.5k front with LTC and 7k rear with LTC), him and Kurt both have found some more comfort with the little bit of extra toe in on the rear (the schelle block is that same anti squat angles as the LRC block but is slightly wider to reduce the toe when using the center pill) He did not note it but usually when running +2mm hex's they usually ditch the Blue Arm caps and this is to change the scrub radius while maintaining the same track width. (I have not gotten confirmation on this but its been the trend, this does weaken where the arms go in and can cause you to strip the upper/lower arms)

Feel free to ask any questions on things i may have missed!

MarcMadd

Do you know why spencer changed back to the HTC gears? He was so adamant about the LTC HTC LTC setup. Is there a drastic change to the new kit that led him back to this gear setup?

Thanks for being so informative Jason!

racing_jason

So I have no info as to why he choose to go back to them I can only speculate as to why.
My best guess is he's looking for the car to 'lock in' quicker. What I mean is if you have an LTC diff and a HTC diff and they 'measure' the same (Diff checker or how ever you find the best way to match them) the HTC gears will want to lock up sooner and act as a solid. I don't know how much you guys got to watch the TNR race but the track (Perris in general) is kind of unique. The grip was rather high and edgy which is where the HTC gear really shine. I wouldn't worry to much about it at this time, as most of us are not going to run on a track like this. That being said if you plan to go to DNC it may be a good idea to have some on hand if the track goes that direction.
Also Kurt Wenger (Mr Schelle) posted a setup on his FB page that he has been running at thornhill and as well as AMS I'll try to get it posted up here in a little bit for you guys to view as another option.

(Added the setup kurt has posted on FB for you guys, feel free to ask questions as always!)
Jason

MarcMadd

I see. I've never ran the HTC gears in the front or rear yet but maybe I'll try to just understand that feeling you're talking about.

My home track is Thornhill so thats good to know Kurts setup!

racing_jason

Good morning guys,
Finally got a chance to run the new car and I can definitely say that it's more of an improvement then I thought it would be!
I started with something close to what I had been running previously with the intention of going closer to what Kurt has been running. I started on the AE green front spring, Tekno Yellow rear spring. The tracks we run on up here are a little more tight then some of the cali tracks and other tracks in the country so we usually end up on a softer front spring. With this front spring the car dumps pretty hard and may not be for everyone. I eventually made the jump over to the Rivkin rear end as you'll see in the setup sheet i've posted below. This rear end combo definitely stays much flatter then the setup Kurt has been using but has a more sharp drop off when you do loose grip.
I stayed on the LTC gears front and rear, grip was on the high side and saw no need to go to a set of the HTC gears in this case.
The biggest thing i took away from the weekend was how responsive the car is to adjustments, the previous car (and it could've been me) i felt that the car was kind of numb at times where this car seems to take adjustments better.
Feel free to ask questions!
Jason

Just before the start of the A Main, as you can say its a pretty defined groove and a fair amount of rubber laid down.

nitrous36

Dumb question, but what tires are you running on your setup? I was considering the AKA I beam tires medium/long wear. I might be sacrificing grip but looking for longer tire life.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/aka-ibe...78813?v=450465

jeancc

Hi,

Do you know if you can use engine main bolts from another brand? I don't really like those thin blue washers.

racing_jason

I ran these in the Bronze compound with no sauce. Finished with about 30% of the tread left.
If you are looking for a longer life tire on a surface as pictured i would maybe look toward a tighter packed pin to help with wear (DoubleDown, Fugitive, Relapse) or just a bigger pin overall (Lugz Equalizer, Impact, Blockade etc)

I'm not sure if another brand will fit but maybe the kyosho ones?