Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

you should check out some shoe goo from Walmart$6, then get some drywall reinforcent tape (it looks like tape but is fiberglass in a webbing and with the shoe goo over the tape will harden but still allow the body to flex) I used this with even the tiniest amount of the tape it acts like rebar enforced concrete if u know what I’m sayin... lots of videos online to so go check it out in an rc video. Easy to find.

bdeem

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone tried cutting their plastic rear hubs and using the inserts from the aluminum hubs to make use of the center position? Seems like a cheap upgrade if it holds up.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

I’m having a hard time visualizing this but I don’t think it’s even possible. Those hubs are very frustrating also, I have two sets with all 4 having the inner bearing stuck like an engine bearing and no way to get out. Totally frustrated and over it cause I paid 70$ for 1 of the sets and have used them 1 time. They were very good on the track tho the plastic inserts allow some flex over stock. I think a lot of people stuck with the ae setup rear upright and axles. Probably because the aluminum ones wore out the inner bearing and became useless when it was discovered to be really stuck. I’ve used heat, I’ve used prying and torching, the only thing I can think now is making my own bearing extractor small enough it works cause I can’t even find a bearing extractor that can do this. Like I said frustrating. I usually clean my bearings after every day of driving and I don’t like missing any bearings and those are the most important bearing on the entire car u can’t even do maintenance on. I got a second set and spent hours with a brush wheel trying to get as much as I could of the anodizing off, I could only get so far but after 8 wheels and a lot of time it still wasn’t enough to get the bearings not to permanently stick in once they are put together. So now all 4 hubs are on the sideline till that can be fixed to replace bearings, or till I really need them for a race.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

Ok so I must admit my confusion. As many know I’m following a set up that’s current, I have the 8 hole domed pistons in the rear and that was the elite set up, the front pistons are still flat. I hear the best set up is 5 hole domed pistons all around. I can’t find them. Even better yet I would love to find these domed pistons without any holes if possible. I want both if someone knows a part number to the 5 hole pistons all 4 domed I would really appreciate you. And if there are these same domed pistons completely stock no holes that would be even better. Thank you

BrokenFrontArm

The part number for 5 hole tapered pistons is TLR243030. I'm using these drilled to 5x1.5 taper down in the front and 4x1.5, 1x1.9 taper down at the rear, the setup I'm running is 8IGHT-X Elite - Ryan/Don 5/26/20 Standard Setup

CaptainHowdyt13

iTrader: (33)

Anyone have any thoughts on the 8ight X Elite vs the Tekno NB48 2.0?

bdeem

iTrader: (9)

A lot of my fellow racers run Tekno and are very successful. I traded radios with a buddy who's faster than me (often in the top 5). His Tekno had more point and shoot and frankly, easier to drive. This was relative to my 8ight-X (not elite) which felt twichy and had too much steering for the open layout. I've since tuned my set up for more stability, and it's better but not the same.

Stated differently, most of the top drivers are running Tekno at my local track, but they'd be top drivers regardless.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

This is where a flanged bearing would be nice, but seems impossible. Wonder if anti-sieze might help here.

May have to use a spare axle or something similar and either press it out or use a hammer, vise press combo. Usually first is to square up the bearing by slamming it into the seat.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

About TLR344034 it is hard to tell if these hubs accept different bearings, bearing inserts, or if they can be setup to capture the CV joint pin like 4.0’s and older.

There is two visual steps in the inner portion that looks like it can use the 1/2x3/4 bearing or metric equivalent.

I am also not sure how much shimming these hubs give either, and a bearing flange is equal to about A 0.75 shim each.

Modifications can be done to increase shaft play for flanges, IE take the inside bearing shoulder out of the hub and plane the offset down -2mm (closer if you despise shims) for two flanged bearings, leaves about 0.5mm for shimming.
May have to figure out distance between bearings at this point and make a spacer or fill the hub with another bearing that is unflanged.

token

You can send them to me and Ill get the bearings out for your if you would like...Not many I know are running the AE stuff.. Especially on the team.

token

1: cheap... lol
2: It wont work as you would have to remove way to much material and that section would not be durable....

token

My thoughts are TLR

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

Often times a outer bearing can cause inner bearing issues and the fact the AE uses a outer flanged bearing just saying.

I never said they were cheap!! And he was referring to a modification.

You sound like you have a few sets of them sitting around.

Just trying to help help out man.

Exactly how would you know unless you try to get to the root of the cause.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

As far as my bearing being stuck I’m actually using the deep tone set up and the bearing is the bigger one that we used on the previous cars. Both bearings in the hubs are different so that’s why is so much harder to get these out is because it’s not the 8x16 it’s the 1/2-1/4 bearing or whatever. U can’t get a grip on it to pop it out easily. U almost need something the pries out to get leverage on the bearing.

token

dont think I replied to you but ok....... I do have a few sets. We don't have issues with the bearings in our hubs...