Licklobster

iTrader: (1)

Posted some install gripes and findings in the elec thread. Neat bit of kit other then unhappy with servo clearance.

token

The chassis is meant for the Nitro car as stated in the video.

Licklobster

iTrader: (1)

The chassis is "meant" for both cars, as stated in the video. The major issue is type agnostic because the servo mounts in the same location in both cars.

token

And you are the only one with an issue. On an electric car, which its wasn't made for.. Team has been running this chassis for over a year, no scratches on the servo or shaft. ijs.

Licklobster

iTrader: (1)

Must be why one of the two problems I pointed out has already been confirmed on both tater and dakotah's elec car.

Hmm.

silence360

He would be the last person on earth to admit there is an issue even if it was staring him right in front of his face.

token

I would just resolve the issue. #DRIVETLR #TLR4LIFE

silence360

So does that mean I am going to get a new chassis with servo holes in a position where I don't have to grind the servo? That is the only way to resolve it, cause grinding a servo like he did is unacceptable. That is the only way to resolve the issue unless they want to make a new servo mount/receiver box with the servo positioned away from the front driveshaft. Grinding the battery tray, till the revised ones are released is okay, that is understandable, but this is not.

token

we have hours in the cars with no issue. No servo grinding. You don’t have the chassis or the car, you are just all talk. Go annoy Sparko. We are over you think you are the smartest in the room. You don’t like the brand, fine, move along.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Nothing was ever "confirmed" on either of their cars. I stated that both of them are running it with no issues or even witness mark on the driveshaft.

token

Just for the record, here is my car after a week of running on a very tough on car track. There is not a scratch on the front drive shaft using the new Adj chassis. I will say, if you do go with the chassis make sure to order extra skid plates. Car is well balanced, making the car easier to drive. Quicker through corners with out the rear wanting to step out. My problem is I had too much grip. Had to take grip out the car.

Licklobster

iTrader: (1)

Thats a good clearance. Agree on the chassis points and skidplates, it's much improved.

Tricon

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I just bought a used 8ight XE Elite 1,0, should be here in a couple days. Just read through almost this entire saga of the rear end geometry and I'm wondering if I need to be sourcing some of these parts to fix this issue before I even start practicing with it? I tried to follow a lot of the links for setup sheets and they are all dead links. Also, looks like Apexx doesn't make any hub anymore? Should I be getting the Lit C/D blocks and shaving 4mm off the center? +2mm hexes? Kyosho hubs? After all that reading I feel like I'm more lost than I was when I started hah. Is this problem more prevalent on the nitro buggies for some reason? I didn't find much about this in the eBuggy thread, unless I just skipped over it somehow. Appreciate any help!

token

Hit me up on FB and Ill look for the last setups we used on this car.

jeancc

Can somebody post length and thickness of differential shafts?