BuGgYBaShEr.28

The voltage specs a manufacturer lists is usually the max it is rated at @ that voltage. The ESC will have a internal bec, on that mm2 its default is 5v I believe. You can adjust it up to whatever, if the servo is 6v then adjust to 6v. The bec supplies power to the servo and Rx. Adding an external bec helps when you put a voltage hungry servo on board, but my guess you can upgrade that servo on the kraton without going crazy and not adding an external bec. Bec is battery eliminator circuit I believe too. So you just put to a limit on the max vo!tags to servo and Rx, typically under a load that voltage will drop, so to compensate for that I adjust a 6v servo to 6.4 or 6.6 can't remember but too much than you could blow it

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Ok thanks. So if I buy a 7.4 volt servo instead of an 6volt I can just bump up the internal bec to 7.4 ad probably still not need an external bec? Or would 7.4 be considered a power hungry servo? The mm2 is 5.5 stock but I have it at 6 right now cause that is all my current rx is rated for but the futaba Rx I'm waiting on is 7.4 ad so is the servo I'm looking at.

BuGgYBaShEr.28

Alright great, so if the Rx and servo are rated @ 7.4v than I would def run the bec that high. That higher voltage will give you more out of your servo. You may not need an external bec but a "hungry" servo for example could be a high voltage high torque spec servo. You would need to add one if you experience black outs when under a load. I would try the servo with the internal bec set @ 7.4 and then try it. If when your hard on the throttle and steering but its hesitating then I would recommend an external bec.

I have added one to ensure that everything works right with no issues. I also feel in my mind that it takes less stress from the ESC.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Got it... I actually ended up getting the Savox 1256tg for a good price, which is rated at 6 volt. The Rx is still 4.8-7.4. This one is for the Kraton but I think I'll still grab the hitec servo rated at 7.4 for my flm eMaxx. But I'll try it out like you said and see how it all works. Thanks again.

BuGgYBaShEr.28

No problem bud, but remember that servo that is rated @ 6v you can't raise it any higher then that even if the Rx can handle it. However if it was me, I would adjust it just a hair higher like 6.4v to achieve a steady 6v across the board, so when its under a load then you shouldn't drop below the 6v. I think I told you I run mine on the maxx at 6.6v but 6.4v should still be safe.

imac6471

iTrader: (7)

So Ive searched and searched and could not find the answer I'm looking for. What are the actual dimensions for the battery tray? I just bought one and wanna get batteries before it arrives.

ccc3

The battery tray is 2 inches X 6 1/8. The two 2S side by side are " fairly secure ", but if you run 6S ( 2 X 3S ), you have to stack them. Those will move around on you. I actually purchased a second battery tray and sandwich them in. Then I put another velcro strap long ways across that. That holds them in there!

SuperFastSnail

iTrader: (82)

Anyone tried putting in a standard 1/8th buggy/truggy center diff in or perhaps just the spur. Running the metal stock is nice but looking for something more common.

Sneetches

I believe that I saw a video from one guy's Typhon saying he used a center diff from a 1/8 buggy, but I will have to find it to see again.

On a different note, I should have a new video up soon. I planned today but had some rendering problems before work. After 3 days of mudding, jumps (a 5S pack of 40+ ft ones), and just general bashing, I blew out a steering knuckle bearing. I'll be doing a teardown of the truck to redo the front/rear diffs, new tires, new rubber shielded bearings, etc. Time to bring it back this spring .

Sneetches

Here's the new vid. I fired it up right from the basement and straight into the swamp lol.

+ YouTube Video

SuperFastSnail

iTrader: (82)

Awesome video. I think by the time you are done, the kraton is gonna be smelling like a pile of BS, literally. At 6:07, the cow comes up to see what's happenin. And I know there is a lot of cow pie in that stall.

Sneetches

Lol, that's one reason I didn't want to jump in that anymore. I only got a bit on the front a-arm but I sprayed the whole thing down with the hose afterwards. That's why I said I need a new place to jump

Sneetches

I got my steering knuckles from "Omnimodels" on Ebay and they are the upgraded version. Unfortunately my bearings didn't come in at the same time.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

I was just thinking about buying a set of MBX7T shocks to put on the Kraton. From what I have gathered the Kraton shocks are approx. 118mm lg (front) and 137mm lg (rear). The MBX7T shocks are approx. 108mm (front) and 130mm (rear). So that is 10mm (.38") short in front and 7mm (.28") short in the rear. Right now the shocks are setup in the middle holes of the towers. I could move them to the closest setting giving me maybe .0625" of that length back. Do you guys think that those shocks are too short to use?

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Hey I have another question for you. So I had the Traxxas TQI Rx and Tx setup in my Maxx and Kraton. I used the Hitec 7954 in the Maxx and had no glitching issues. In the Kraton with the Savox I did have glitching so I hooked up the Glitch buster and that stopped it. Then I removed the TQI stuff and switched to Futaba 4PLS and Rx's. The glitching stopped in the Kraton with the Savox (without the glitch buster). Why is that? I found that out by accident. I hooked everything up and just forgot to plug in the glitch buster. I buttoned everything up and drove it around the basement then realized there was no glitching and I forgot to but the glitch buster in. I am glad, but just wondering why.