Atomic RC AMZ MiniZ Brushless 4wd Competitor
#31
Tech Adept
I got lucky and managed to get a gogolap receiver to use the mini-z asf module and euros radio.
#32
Tech Adept
I installed the gogolap asf receiver on mine today. You can really tune out a lot of the kinks with a Eurus radio. It was also really easy to swap.
Gogolap AMZ
Kris
Gogolap AMZ
Kris
Last edited by Byebye; 08-25-2014 at 02:17 AM.
#33
Tech Apprentice
Been loving my amz , has its fair share of aluminum on it , foams for the track and drift setup for fun , amazing little cars
#34
Here's mine modded to use any Rx small enough to fit under the body.
Using a Flysky Rx for now as it's very low profile and cheap as chips, I do plan to switch to a RX461 once I can scrape up enough leftover funds
Using a Flysky Rx for now as it's very low profile and cheap as chips, I do plan to switch to a RX461 once I can scrape up enough leftover funds
#35
What is required to use any receiver as far as mods go? I'm thinking of getting one and would like to use my dx4r with it. Thanks.
Last edited by Dismal; 11-30-2014 at 06:31 PM. Reason: Left something out
#36
Tech Adept
Tx.
#37
Tech Adept
Here in the Northeast, it doesn't seem like there's alot of folks using this chassis. How is the performance of this relative to the awd kyosho mini-z and mr03 brushless/mrx (x-power)? This looks like it can perform but want to make sure before I invest in parts etc;
Tx.
Tx.
#38
You only have to desolder the tiny RX board from the ESC and replace it with a JR style plug.
#39
Tech Initiate
There's an "international" edition of the kit, coming with an ESC (AMZ-OP029), no receiver. I'd link to the product page, but I'm not allowed to, yet.
The included Servo still has some tiny white plug, not JR. Is there actually any micro/mini receiver that doesn't use all JR?
What's puzzling me is the port on the top. I guess it's heritage from the combined unit. So, does anyone know what the upward facing ports on that unit are for?
(I did ask Atomic, no answer yet.)
The included Servo still has some tiny white plug, not JR. Is there actually any micro/mini receiver that doesn't use all JR?
What's puzzling me is the port on the top. I guess it's heritage from the combined unit. So, does anyone know what the upward facing ports on that unit are for?
(I did ask Atomic, no answer yet.)
#40
AFAIK the top plug is for ESC programming. You'll need to buy the cable and a compatible programming card though. I believe the HW LCD cards work, but not sure which version.
Yea I forgot I had to solder on JR plugs for both the ESC and Servo. It was worth it though, as now I can use whatever Rx small enough to fit under the desired body.
The Flysky Rx is pretty small, but my GT3 (The original with a module) is showing its age, the steering wheel is getting sloppy and the third channel button sticks.. So when the time comes, I will swap in a Sanwa RX371 or 381..
Yea I forgot I had to solder on JR plugs for both the ESC and Servo. It was worth it though, as now I can use whatever Rx small enough to fit under the desired body.
The Flysky Rx is pretty small, but my GT3 (The original with a module) is showing its age, the steering wheel is getting sloppy and the third channel button sticks.. So when the time comes, I will swap in a Sanwa RX371 or 381..
#41
Tech Initiate
sporadicidiocy: There's an AMZ-OPC card. Looks exactly like the Hobbywing LCD PC2C (Xerun, EZRUN). Hope they didn't bother to mess with the firmware. With a cable that has JR on one side. Which made me think for programming one would unplug throttle and attach the card instead. Now on a second look, I see the cable has JR on one side, but one of those small white plugs on the other. Guess the JR side goes into the card, then.
Gotta love a manufacturer that doesn't manage to include the right manual and has none on the website :}
Gotta love a manufacturer that doesn't manage to include the right manual and has none on the website :}
#42
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I've gone through 5 different servos so far. The Atomic ones snapped before I could even finish a lap. The Futaba and one other brand wouldn't center. I finally settled into a MKS servo and love it. Super high strength and as fast as the Mini Z built in ones. Last time out the car was very slow, but handled well. Turns out it had a ton of drivetrain bind. Tomorrow I'll see if this car can begin to hang with my MA020. Anyone read X-Power's news? Looks like they are about to release a belt drive car of their own design. I'm excited. X-Power stuff is of the highest quality. They will also include electronics that will bind with Kyosho mini z radios, from the start.
#43
I find the drivetrain binding mostly comes from the gear mesh itself. If you're using a Mini-Z body, the left body clip must be trimmed so it doesn't press on the motor and cause the binding, as the motor mount tend to slip with enough force.
Apparently Atomic will release the AMZ 2WD early next year, it's nice to see the micro racing market is still going strong with all these new chassis coming out.
Apparently Atomic will release the AMZ 2WD early next year, it's nice to see the micro racing market is still going strong with all these new chassis coming out.
#44
I just got the Atomic AMZ international version. This one doesn’t come with a radio but does include the aluminum Hobbywing ESC and digital servo. I ordered from TinyRC and was impressed that I received it in 3 days using the free shipping option!
First, let me tell you why I bought this. I currently race 1/10 scale on road and off road. The closest carpet racing is 45 miles away and so I can only go once a week at the most. When I do go, I raced F1 and USGT. These are by far my favorite classes to race. Occasionally, I also race Pro4 short course.
I wanted a way to get more track time at home so decided I would build a track in my basement. I have an area about 16’x20’ to work with so the cars would have to be a small scale. While researching Mini-Z’s, I stumbled upon videos and photos of the Atomic AMZ. I really liked how it was essentially a scaled down touring car. Since there aren’t any Mini-Z tracks around here, I wasn’t concerned with meeting class requirements. Also, I wanted to use my own radio which is an Airtronics MT4. It would have been a pain getting it to work with a Mini-Z if at all.
Upon opening the box, it was apparent that this is a good quality kit. It went together relatively quickly without any problems. Overall, I’m impressed with the quality and how well thought out it seems to be. It seems to have a lot of adjustability.
Now, there are three issues with this kit as I see it so far:
• It didn’t come with wheels or rubber tires! I wish the manufacturer would make this clear up front. I don’t mind paying more for them it’s just that now I have to put in another order and wait to drive the car. Oddly enough, it did come with some hard plastic drift tires. But these are useless since no wheels are provided.
• The stock plastic motor mount seems kind of flimsy. It looks like the gear mesh could get changed relatively easily while getting knocked around. Since I had to order wheels and tires, I went ahead and ordered the optional metal motor mount as well.
• The digital servo comes with a micro plug on it. This seems silly because this version of the kit is supposed to be used with your own radio and receiver. I don’t know of any receivers that accept this plug. So, it was a slight irritation that I had to solder on a JR style plug to make it work.
My radio of choice is the Airtronics MT4. This is the radio I’ve used for the past couple years for all my rc cars and I’m very comfortable with it. I decided to use a FHSS 2 92524 receiver. It’s the smallest one they make and it’s relatively cheap. I de-cased it and put some shrink wrap on it. It fits well directly over the battery. I then did the binding and ESC setup. The ESC setup is easy once you find the directions online (the manual didn’t have this which is something Atomic should remedy).
On the bench, the included digital servo seems very quick! And I just did some low rpm running of the motor to break in the drivetrain a little. Now I just have to wait to receive the wheels and tires so I can see how it actually drives.
Next step after that will be to get a track built. I’m currently trying to decide between three options:
• RCP ready made track
• RCP blank tiles and make my own
• Or buy cheap foam floor tiles
I’ll most likely go with the RCP blank tiles and make my own track. But I still need to do some more research on this. If you have any suggestions on this, please post your thoughts. That’s it for now. I’ll update this thread after the wheels and tires arrive and I can get some driving time on this little car.
First, let me tell you why I bought this. I currently race 1/10 scale on road and off road. The closest carpet racing is 45 miles away and so I can only go once a week at the most. When I do go, I raced F1 and USGT. These are by far my favorite classes to race. Occasionally, I also race Pro4 short course.
I wanted a way to get more track time at home so decided I would build a track in my basement. I have an area about 16’x20’ to work with so the cars would have to be a small scale. While researching Mini-Z’s, I stumbled upon videos and photos of the Atomic AMZ. I really liked how it was essentially a scaled down touring car. Since there aren’t any Mini-Z tracks around here, I wasn’t concerned with meeting class requirements. Also, I wanted to use my own radio which is an Airtronics MT4. It would have been a pain getting it to work with a Mini-Z if at all.
Upon opening the box, it was apparent that this is a good quality kit. It went together relatively quickly without any problems. Overall, I’m impressed with the quality and how well thought out it seems to be. It seems to have a lot of adjustability.
Now, there are three issues with this kit as I see it so far:
• It didn’t come with wheels or rubber tires! I wish the manufacturer would make this clear up front. I don’t mind paying more for them it’s just that now I have to put in another order and wait to drive the car. Oddly enough, it did come with some hard plastic drift tires. But these are useless since no wheels are provided.
• The stock plastic motor mount seems kind of flimsy. It looks like the gear mesh could get changed relatively easily while getting knocked around. Since I had to order wheels and tires, I went ahead and ordered the optional metal motor mount as well.
• The digital servo comes with a micro plug on it. This seems silly because this version of the kit is supposed to be used with your own radio and receiver. I don’t know of any receivers that accept this plug. So, it was a slight irritation that I had to solder on a JR style plug to make it work.
My radio of choice is the Airtronics MT4. This is the radio I’ve used for the past couple years for all my rc cars and I’m very comfortable with it. I decided to use a FHSS 2 92524 receiver. It’s the smallest one they make and it’s relatively cheap. I de-cased it and put some shrink wrap on it. It fits well directly over the battery. I then did the binding and ESC setup. The ESC setup is easy once you find the directions online (the manual didn’t have this which is something Atomic should remedy).
On the bench, the included digital servo seems very quick! And I just did some low rpm running of the motor to break in the drivetrain a little. Now I just have to wait to receive the wheels and tires so I can see how it actually drives.
Next step after that will be to get a track built. I’m currently trying to decide between three options:
• RCP ready made track
• RCP blank tiles and make my own
• Or buy cheap foam floor tiles
I’ll most likely go with the RCP blank tiles and make my own track. But I still need to do some more research on this. If you have any suggestions on this, please post your thoughts. That’s it for now. I’ll update this thread after the wheels and tires arrive and I can get some driving time on this little car.
#45
How do you adjust the tightness of the Atomic AMZ ball diffs? I looked through the manual and it doesn't say. I also looked at the diffs and I see that one side has a phillips head but it doesn't seem to be an adjustment as it doesn't get any tighter.