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Old 11-06-2017, 09:40 AM
  #1111  
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thanks! where did you order the motor from?
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
thanks! where did you order the motor from?
Your welcome!

Got it from Steve at Warren racing

http://casterracingmi.com/

The motor for track is plenty fast and I think smoother then some of the big name brand motors
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:48 AM
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good stuff. That may be an option I want to look into. How does it compare size wise to the truggy and regular buggy motor?

That new hobbywing xR10 stock spec ESC is very tiny, may be worth a look for the buggy.


So what appears to be another popular servo option versus the LC Datan metal gear one? Any HV options?


Also, what are some replacement pins for the hex wideners? want to have those on hand for those who need them.

Last edited by Cain; 11-06-2017 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
thanks for the info!

strodedawg, when you say you use threadlock, are you talking about on the adjustment nut so the spring doesn't back out?

Yeah I am thinking then getting the carrier at a minimum.

Anyone thing the rear hubs could use the alloy treatment?

As for the dogbone popping out, I am thinking maybe some fuel tubing or some orings to keep them in place? say some on the either diff cup or axle side so they don't push in too much and alloy flex to have them pop free. Maybe the diff cup.
ive never had rear dogbones pop out.maybe he should look at how much droop the rear has. there are droop adjustment screws on the arms
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:46 AM
  #1115  
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yeah for the dogbone issue I didn't have any pop out either, allI can think is that he is is running the wideners, and relative to maybe his droop or the flex on the rear suspension parts he gets enough twist to allow them to fly out. I did suggest a mod I do which is to use either orings or a small spring in the diff cup to put slight tension or prevent bottoming out of the bone but allow some movment of the bone. This has worked great in the past with other vehicles I have had that had the problem.

Ultimately, I think we are all just going to go with cvds all around. The kit race versions I am suggesting to LC should by default include full CVDs as I got some odd looks when some guys saw it had bones for a race kit in the rear.
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:21 PM
  #1116  
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It's tough to find a servo that will fit correctly on these. On the Losi M8 series the Hitec 225mg is a good replacement but it doesn't fit right on the LC Racing cars. Solar makes a one that fits but the stats don't match what the Batan servos can produce.
Solar Servo D655 [email protected] Mini Digital 22g 25P-L6045
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by carcrazy699
Your welcome!

Got it from Steve at Warren racing

Warren RC/LC Racing Michigan

The motor for track is plenty fast and I think smoother then some of the big name brand motors
Woah yes. This. This motor barely get warm.

I have this motor paired with a Sensored ESC and this motor is CRAZY smooth.
$$$ tho.
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:37 AM
  #1118  
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yeah last go around I think I order whatever the best Solar servo was that they said fit the Tacon line.

One of my buddies to get the esc down to the chassi he tripped off the mounting tabs closest to the motor and the stock HW esc fit at that point.

I heard LC Racing is looking into a sensored setup offering. The vehicles have a lot of potential to be tapped. I know I would like to see:

- full bearing supported slipper (get rid of the long shim thing)
- CNC spindle included or improve stock one for screw pull-out issue
- stiffer suspension parts
- adjustable hanger inserts that offer multiple positions like modern vehicles
- a brace that runs on the chassis to keep the lipos from sliding towards the driveshaft. could be quite simple as another hole and a post
- Truggy long arm supension that uses standard 1/10 buggy wheels without extenders
- turnbuckles that you can adjust like 1/10 ones (a hex-ish style versus that pin hole thing)

Speaking of turnbuckles, what ones that have the features I mention can you use?

Been happy though with the vehicles so far
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:22 PM
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The Truggy battery area is 120mm x 35mm correct?

I'm looking for LIPO options.

Turnigy LIPO 1800mAh 65C - 104x35x16mm but will cost twice as much as the pack to ship and is not in stock in the US warehouse.

GensAce 2200mAh 50C - 87x34x20mm (I have a hard time believing that 87mm is correct but that is what the website states)

Glacier 2200mAh 30C - 105x33x16mm

Any other ideas?
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:06 PM
  #1120  
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Originally Posted by Reaper802
The Truggy battery area is 120mm x 35mm correct?

I'm looking for LIPO options.

Turnigy LIPO 1800mAh 65C - 104x35x16mm but will cost twice as much as the pack to ship and is not in stock in the US warehouse.

GensAce 2200mAh 50C - 87x34x20mm (I have a hard time believing that 87mm is correct but that is what the website states)

Glacier 2200mAh 30C - 105x33x16mm

Any other ideas?
most people i know run tje hardcase 1800 gensace battery. It just requires a trim of the outside tab of the battery holder.
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:04 AM
  #1121  
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For battery, I am using the stock LC Racing lipo but it doesnt' fit the tray exactly as its not long enough on both the buggy and truggy. I use some weather stripping to take up the space on where the battery leads are. This helps to also give the leads some space too. I also run a bit of battery mounting foam and that helps keep the lipos in place.

As for hardcase lipos, last go around did the gens ace, LRP has a hardcase one on the way. I am hoping that LC Racing makes there own version and looks into a sensored motor option.

For the Truggy hex wideners, I ended up using about 0.4mm of shims on the axle prior to going through the hub and that took out the slop on the hexes. will see how it runs tomorrow.

I am also going to try regular buggy tires, 4wd 1/10 fronts on the front, 1/10 rear buggy wheels on the rear to see how I like it.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Backyard RC
It's tough to find a servo that will fit correctly on these. On the Losi M8 series the Hitec 225mg is a good replacement but it doesn't fit right on the LC Racing cars. Solar makes a one that fits but the stats don't match what the Batan servos can produce.
Solar Servo D655 [email protected] Mini Digital 22g 25P-L6045
Solar S658 is what I am using in my truggy and its amazing. Super fast and held up to my practice day really well today.
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Old 11-11-2017, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by carcrazy699
Solar S658 is what I am using in my truggy and its amazing. Super fast and held up to my practice day really well today.
Do you have a link to the servo?

We had a first official race of the winter here at our indoor track.

the LC racing buggies worked quite well. The Rally tires with the outer edge glued on the front tires was the hot ticket.

Another driver who was unable to race today did some suspension tuning that I hope to get more info on, but it sounds like he modified the pistons for better pack and used some old school associated springs. I am thinking of getting more of the LC racing spring line to see what is what.

For the truggies, probably the issues we saw were:

- glazing slipper pads
- ball cups popping off, in particular on vehicles using the axle extenders

For ball cups, I heard RPMs are the ticket, are there any others that have a pass thru on them for the ball stud?

For the slipper pads, what other options out there are better than the stock material?
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Old 11-11-2017, 11:05 PM
  #1124  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Do you have a link to the servo?

We had a first official race of the winter here at our indoor track.

the LC racing buggies worked quite well. The Rally tires with the outer edge glued on the front tires was the hot ticket.

Another driver who was unable to race today did some suspension tuning that I hope to get more info on, but it sounds like he modified the pistons for better pack and used some old school associated springs. I am thinking of getting more of the LC racing spring line to see what is what.

For the truggies, probably the issues we saw were:

- glazing slipper pads
- ball cups popping off, in particular on vehicles using the axle extenders

For ball cups, I heard RPMs are the ticket, are there any others that have a pass thru on them for the ball stud?

For the slipper pads, what other options out there are better than the stock material?
I also had some problems with ball cups.I heard RPM rod ends for the mini 8ight as well as mini 8ight ball studs do the trick. I just replaced the turnbuckles and that fixed it.

The mini 8ight shares the exact same spur and slipper design, maybe the pads on the 8ight will fix your problem, although I haven’t experienced that before.
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:11 AM
  #1125  
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yeah, I think it is these to use:

Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 ? Black | RPM R/C Products

When you went with different turnbuckles, what did you go with?

Yeah the slipper pads from losi thinking of trying too.
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