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Old 05-20-2019, 04:02 AM
  #1861  
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Originally Posted by racknpinion
You can try a couple things if you’ve got too much grip and the car is rolling.

First is just simple throttle control with your finger as you turn. And braking.

Raise your roll center by lowering the camber links on the tower. Try just the rear first and see what happens. Then try both.

Move the rear shocks to the lower hole on the tower. Again, try the rear first and see what you think.

Thicker oil will help as well, but that will take some experimentation and there’s too many variables to say what a good starting point would be.

You can also dial out a little drop in the back. Only takes a millimeter or so.

Try sway bars.

These should all help, but may not eliminate traction roll entirely. When this happens and these things aren’t sufficient, it’s a sign you’ve got the wrong tires.
Camber links on the rear tower are now in the lowest position. I also moved the rear shocks to the lowest hole on the tower. Traction roll issue solved. It might be a touch too loose in the rear now. I'm going to try the shocks back in the original position and see if that splits the difference. Appreciate the feedback!
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:28 AM
  #1862  
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Having trouble with my diff. Nice and smooth but when I opt down the crown gear it locks up. I have done it dry and filled. I have rebuilt it about 5 times. I have inspected the parts and see no defects. Never had this happen to me with a fluid filled diff before. Any ideas?
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:45 AM
  #1863  
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Originally Posted by strodedawg
Having trouble with my diff. Nice and smooth but when I opt down the crown gear it locks up. I have done it dry and filled. I have rebuilt it about 5 times. I have inspected the parts and see no defects. Never had this happen to me with a fluid filled diff before. Any ideas?
That is a weird one. I had some mildly sticky diff gears on my LC12 kit, but working them in by hand on the pins before final assembly stopped them from sticking. If the issue is happening when you drop the crown gear down that would imply to me that there could potentially be an issue with either the top sun gear or the way it's keyed into the outdrive pins. Hard to say. Is this happening before or after the crown gear is screwed down?

There is a trick to putting the cases together that is shown on the LC youTube page where you wet sand the top of the bottom part of the case to give them a better seal, but I dont know if this will help you. You could just have a defective case or something too. My best advice is to contact whoever you bought it from and they should help you resolve this. Warren RC is particularly good about this kinda thing.
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Old 05-20-2019, 12:47 PM
  #1864  
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Thanks it locks up the second I tighten down the diff screws weird
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Old 05-20-2019, 04:10 PM
  #1865  
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Anything is possible. A manufacturing defect is not exactly common with these cars in my experience and from what I've seen, but it's also not unheard of either. You've got enough experience under your belt that would lead me to believe thats very possibly the case, especially since the other one seems to be perfect. I had a faulty machined shock body on my kit which caused the piston to bind, but that was resolved quickly through Warren RC.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:27 PM
  #1866  
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Originally Posted by racknpinion
Anything is possible. A manufacturing defect is not exactly common with these cars in my experience and from what I've seen, but it's also not unheard of either. You've got enough experience under your belt that would lead me to believe thats very possibly the case, especially since the other one seems to be perfect. I had a faulty machined shock body on my kit which caused the piston to bind, but that was resolved quickly through Warren RC.
Sorta related when I upgraded the shocks on my Tacon Valor to the aluminum ones, one of the shock caps was missing the bleeder hole, so I just stole one of the caps off my plastic shocks.
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:03 PM
  #1867  
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I mean, shit happens. It’s not unheard of. It’d been over 20 years since I built a kit, and I have to say, even with my limited experience building them, the LC kit was a real pleasure to build with no big issues. Aside from the weird shock body thing (which got resolved quickly and painlessly) there were zero unpleasant surprises in my LC12 kit. Parts were organized into their respective bags, clearly labeled, and nothing was missing. The manual was clear and well done with each step being well illustrated. If the some of the things I’ve heard about a few big manufacturers current kits are true, the LC kits are a cake walk.
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:32 PM
  #1868  
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Is there a floating servo mount for the 1/14th scale or is it only for the 1/12th scale?

Pretty sure my servo gave up the ghost tonight. It's taking no input from the receiver and will only center when moving the tires from one direction. I'm wondering if this is why I hit LVC last night in less than 5 minutes while my battery showed 40+% left. Maybe as it was dying it was drawing a ton of current and pulled the voltage way down?

If the floating mount will work on the 1/14th scale does anyone have servo recommendations?

Last edited by Reaper802; 05-21-2019 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 05-21-2019, 10:12 PM
  #1869  
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Yes, the floating mount will work on all the LC 1/14 models as well as the LC12. There are way too many 35mm wide mini servos to list though. I'd suggest going back through the thread, or doing some googling to get an idea of what you might be interested in and ask about them here.

Just a few models that would work and will give you a starting point would be the SH series of Savox servos like the 1250, 1257 and the 1350, the Align DS535, DS530 and their metal case "m" variants, and the Trackstar TS-P12s.
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Old 05-22-2019, 03:35 AM
  #1870  
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Looking to upgrade the turnbuckles and ball ups. Rpm 4-40 short ball cups if I remember and what ball studs are people using?
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:49 AM
  #1871  
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Originally Posted by racknpinion
I mean, shit happens. It’s not unheard of. It’d been over 20 years since I built a kit, and I have to say, even with my limited experience building them, the LC kit was a real pleasure to build with no big issues. Aside from the weird shock body thing (which got resolved quickly and painlessly) there were zero unpleasant surprises in my LC12 kit. Parts were organized into their respective bags, clearly labeled, and nothing was missing. The manual was clear and well done with each step being well illustrated. If the some of the things I’ve heard about a few big manufacturers current kits are true, the LC kits are a cake walk.
I built an Axial SCX10-II kit and Omg it was frustrating, you were constantly going back and forth between bags. Some steps you needed stuff out of 3 or 4 different bags....
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:00 AM
  #1872  
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Originally Posted by strodedawg
Looking to upgrade the turnbuckles and ball ups. Rpm 4-40 short ball cups if I remember and what ball studs are people using?
I tried Associated ball studs for the b4/t4 but they are too long for the steering rack and front axle carriers.
I think I'm just going to give up on the ball cups and try ball ends instead.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...Fp%2F691306494
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Old 05-22-2019, 06:41 PM
  #1873  
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Floating mount is now ordered. Did some servo research today but still not sure what to go with yet. I have a set of Hitec 225MGs in the basement that I might just toss in there for now. Not digital but should give me a starting point to go off of for both speed and torque.

Last edited by Reaper802; 05-23-2019 at 04:59 AM. Reason: Servo typo
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:23 PM
  #1874  
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Originally Posted by Reaper802
Floating mount is now ordered. Did some servo research today but still not sure what to go with yet. I have a set of Hitec 65MGs in the basement that I might just toss in there for now. Not digital but should give me a starting point to go off of for both speed and torque.
The 65mg is a micro sized servo, and has only about 30 oz.- inch of torque at 6 volts. It’s also to small even for the stock mounts. Completely defeats the purpose of using the floating mount and is actually a worse choice than the stock Batan. You want to look at Mini sizes servos as mentioned above, not micro servos. Also commonly called 1/12 servos, tail servos, and pan car servos. If you research some of those options I listed above it will give you a good idea what to look for as far as dimensions and specs.
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:01 AM
  #1875  
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Made a typo above. HS-225MG is what I have laying around in the basement to test.

0.14, 54 oz/in @ 4.8v

0.11, 66 oz/in @ 6.0v
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Last edited by Reaper802; 05-23-2019 at 02:22 PM.
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