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Old 05-17-2019, 07:03 PM
  #1846  
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Well the new tires have plenty of bite on my short to medium length grass track at the house. I think they actually have too much grip as I'm getting a lot of traction roll now.

Can the roll center on the Truggy be adjusted?

I could also go with a heavier shock oil correct?

Other ideas?
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:16 PM
  #1847  
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Default Where to go for lc racing 1/14 vs ae reflex buggy comparo?

As the titel states any links??
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:10 PM
  #1848  
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You can try a couple things if you’ve got too much grip and the car is rolling.

First is just simple throttle control with your finger as you turn. And braking.

Raise your roll center by lowering the camber links on the tower. Try just the rear first and see what happens. Then try both.

Move the rear shocks to the lower hole on the tower. Again, try the rear first and see what you think.

Thicker oil will help as well, but that will take some experimentation and there’s too many variables to say what a good starting point would be.

You can also dial out a little drop in the back. Only takes a millimeter or so.

Try sway bars.

These should all help, but may not eliminate traction roll entirely. When this happens and these things aren’t sufficient, it’s a sign you’ve got the wrong tires.
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:37 PM
  #1849  
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Originally Posted by Charlieuk
Picked up a second swb buggy for the wife, unfortunately it was in a bit of a state so having to give it a full refurb with all new bolts and various little bits plus a new body.

Im wondering about geting the 1/14 scale hobbyking motor and giving her mine but can’t find any reviews on it other than people saying not in stock, has anyone tried it? I read the trackstar esc are the same as hobbywing?
Man dude that looks like fun. Rebuilding is definitely my favorite part of this hobby. You should just go with the factory motor from Warren, or like they say here any cheap 2835 or 2845 if you want something gnarly. No comment on the esc...

But any of you guys find a front shock position that allows the chassis to bottom out with larger tires? The ball cups in particular seem to bind on the front end even just cycling the suspension.
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Old 05-18-2019, 02:00 AM
  #1850  
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Coming from the uk I think I have decided to give the trackstar 1/14 scale sensored 4620kv motor a go and then there is a hobbyking x-car 60a esc. I would have got the leopard sensored but by the time it’s here in the uk it will cost a hole lot more. Still a bit un desided on servo’s I don’t want to get another Batan but don’t want to spend $100 on one. I thought I found a good hitech but realised it was hi voltage and don’t want to mess with extra wiring. At the moment I’m thinking this https://hobbyking.com/en_us/corona-d...14sec-22g.html
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:31 PM
  #1851  
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Originally Posted by Charlieuk
Coming from the uk I think I have decided to give the trackstar 1/14 scale sensored 4620kv motor a go and then there is a hobbyking x-car 60a esc. I would have got the leopard sensored but by the time it’s here in the uk it will cost a hole lot more. Still a bit un desided on servo’s I don’t want to get another Batan but don’t want to spend $100 on one. I thought I found a good hitech but realised it was hi voltage and don’t want to mess with extra wiring. At the moment I’m thinking this https://hobbyking.com/en_us/corona-d...14sec-22g.html
Charlie, look at the TS-P12 instead of that one. The one you posted is a hair small and has much worse specs than the Batan's. Get yourself the new floating servo mount and it will drop right in. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tracksta...05sec-28g.html

Just FYI, a HV servo doesn't require any extra wiring, it's just that they are capable of being run at higher voltages from ESC's that have a higher voltage BEC. Usually this translates to more torque and speed.

If you can get the sensored 2445 Trackstar motors over there across the pond do you mind sharing where you're going to order from? They are currently unavailable here and have been for some time, both in the US warehouse and the one in Asia.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:42 PM
  #1852  
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Originally Posted by batryopratedboy
But any of you guys find a front shock position that allows the chassis to bottom out with larger tires? The ball cups in particular seem to bind on the front end even just cycling the suspension.
You shouldn't really be having issues with the chassis not bottoming out before the suspension does. At least none that shock location would help with. Sounds like there's another issue going on. What tires specifically are you using? Are you using the shock eyelets on the bottom of the shock shaft to limit droop or using droop screws?

The RPM balls cups are known to bind some but some have noticed vast differences with these just using different colors. Not sure which cups you're using. The main issue is they are for a 4-40 sized stud rather than a 4.3mm. You can get them to work well, but it takes a little massaging of the cups. X-Ray and Lunsford make a better alternative to the RPM's in 4.3mm but I've yet to try them. Stock cups should not be binding at all and are still the best I've used for a free suspension, but they also flex and pop off.
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:43 PM
  #1853  
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Originally Posted by racknpinion
You shouldn't really be having issues with the chassis not bottoming out before the suspension does. At least none that shock location would help with. Sounds like there's another issue going on. What tires specifically are you using? Are you using the shock eyelets on the bottom of the shock shaft to limit droop or using droop screws?

The RPM balls cups are known to bind some but some have noticed vast differences with these just using different colors. Not sure which cups you're using. The main issue is they are for a 4-40 sized stud rather than a 4.3mm. You can get them to work well, but it takes a little massaging of the cups. X-Ray and Lunsford make a better alternative to the RPM's in 4.3mm but I've yet to try them. Stock cups should not be binding at all and are still the best I've used for a free suspension, but they also flex and pop off.
Stock tires from the MT. Stock ball cups. Stock shock eyelets. No droop screws. Everything else is stock haha. In fact I have shortened the shock eyelets to get a little bit MORE compression. I looked into it more and I'm starting to feel more like the CVD's bottom out in the cups preventing full compression. But the steering links also play a small role. It's not that severe with the stock tires... The fronts deflect just a tad, the rear tires though I can hold the chassis down and still lift the suspension enough to make the tires "round out." But I have some new tires showing up and I'm trying to make sure no components get stressed out.

Upper inner hole and lower outer hole.
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:44 AM
  #1854  
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Originally Posted by racknpinion
Charlie, look at the TS-P12 instead of that one. The one you posted is a hair small and has much worse specs than the Batan's. Get yourself the new floating servo mount and it will drop right in. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tracksta...05sec-28g.html

Just FYI, a HV servo doesn't require any extra wiring, it's just that they are capable of being run at higher voltages from ESC's that have a higher voltage BEC. Usually this translates to more torque and speed.

If you can get the sensored 2445 Trackstar motors over there across the pond do you mind sharing where you're going to order from? They are currently unavailable here and have been for some time, both in the US warehouse and the one in Asia.


i have been looking at the track star but it’s 4mm wider than the Batan so I would have to cut the mounts off probably to get the receiver in on my swb buggy. I’m assuming if you use the hi servo on standard power receiver it won’t have anywhere near the performance stated. How do you know if a receiver does hv? I’m using a Futaba r202 which I assume does not I can’t see were they give the out out voltage? The input is 4.8-7.4
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Old 05-19-2019, 10:20 AM
  #1855  
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Originally Posted by Charlieuk




i have been looking at the track star but it’s 4mm wider than the Batan so I would have to cut the mounts off probably to get the receiver in on my swb buggy. I’m assuming if you use the hi servo on standard power receiver it won’t have anywhere near the performance stated. How do you know if a receiver does hv? I’m using a Futaba r202 which I assume does not I can’t see were they give the out out voltage? The input is 4.8-7.4
The input is the voltage, so your rx can handle 7.4v.
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Old 05-19-2019, 12:30 PM
  #1856  
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Yes, the Futaba receivers are kinda big. I think you could make it work, but it's up to you. The new floating mount was developed specifically so LC owners can simply drop a standard size 35mm mini servo in without any other mods.

You'e correct that if you install a HV servo in a car with an ESC that has a 6v BEC, you wont see many the added benefits of most HV servos and that is better response and torque. But thats not to say it wont work correctly or that it's 6v specs aren't better than any other servo. You just need to look at the specs for the corresponding voltage output of your ESC, and yes also what the receiver can handle. You'd be fine running a HV servo with the 202.
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Old 05-19-2019, 12:31 PM
  #1857  
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Originally Posted by slick2500
The input is the voltage, so your rx can handle 7.4v.
so if I’m running 2s the receiver is geting 7.4 and the servo will get 7.4?
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:34 PM
  #1858  
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Originally Posted by Charlieuk

so if I’m running 2s the receiver is geting 7.4 and the servo will get 7.4?
No, the battery has nothing to do with how much power the receiver is getting, the esc has a bec inside it that supplies power to the receiver. These can range anywhere from 4.8-8.4v, most rtr escs are locked at either 5v or 6v. The nicer aftermarket escs have an adjustable bec. What esc are you running?
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Old 05-19-2019, 06:25 PM
  #1859  
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Originally Posted by slick2500
No, the battery has nothing to do with how much power the receiver is getting, the esc has a bec inside it that supplies power to the receiver. These can range anywhere from 4.8-8.4v, most rtr escs are locked at either 5v or 6v. The nicer aftermarket escs have an adjustable bec. What esc are you running?
are ok thanks for clearing that up, it’s a hobbywing ezrun 60a SL I have in there, looking at the spec it looks to be only 6v. Many thanks
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:10 AM
  #1860  
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You can wire the servo to get the full 8.4v even if the speedo only puts out 6. I don't have a drawing handy but it can definitely be done.
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